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Honda Civic 1.6. SE Executive Auto


Rich
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I changed the pads yesterday and when I got to the OSF and started pushing the piston back fluid began to weep out, which reminded me I had that problem 3 years ago when I first changed them (at the start of this thread).

 

I can't be sure but I think more fluid seeped out this time, it was less than half a teaspoon but the piston seal does look quite old and worn now (dry and cracking). The pedal felt abit soft to me afterwards so we bled them and I took it for a spin, they seemed better to me but I got the missus to check. She said the pedal is firmer and the brakes sharper but they still need to bed in. One thing I noticed is that if you brake hard the pedal does more or less travel to the floor, which I also noticed on the Accord  - must be a Honda thing?

 

I think I had better replace that caliper though once the MOT is done next week, I'd imagine it's the internal seal that is letting fluid past and it will only get worse? It doesn't seem to affect the normal workings of the caliper though.

 

I did spot a mistake I made when I first fitted these and that was I didn't remove the paint from the edges of the pads (I always do this now). The OSF pads were wedged in the carrier and needed prising out, the wear on them shows how they weren't really moving. I'm surprised the brakes still felt good TBH.

 

WP_20140724_18_50_45_Pro.jpg

 

NSF - These weren't too bad and the wear more or less even.

 

WP_20140724_18_50_52_Pro.jpg

 

OSF - The inside pad was wedged in the most and hasn't worn much.

 

WP_20140724_18_50_58_Pro.jpg

 

With the bearing I'm not sure what happened, I took it over for Joe to check and the wheel was spinning ok with and without the caliper on. I must have been imagining it!  :blink:

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A slightly weeping piston is common place, it wouldn't faze me if it was my car plus the peddle pressure will pick up once the pads bed in. Looking at the side of the most worn pad you can see it's not been moving in the carrier "seized" methinks.

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So you think I should leave it then and not change it? I had completely forgot it weeped when I first changed them but that is the first time I've ever experienced it, I've never had it happened on any other car. The fronts shouldn't need doing again for at least another 3 years I'd imagine, the car does less than 8k miles a year.

 

Good point about the side of the pad, yes you can tell it's not been moving. It also looks like the material is breaking away from the back part of the pad? I always remove the paint now and make sure they are moving freely in the carrier before refitting and I use plenty of copper grease  :smile_anim:

 

After seeing those pads I'm going to strip the Accords front brakes and clean them up and see how much meat is left on them. It could be part of the reason I think they feel soft.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yep, it's always good when it passes. I've been using someone my Dad use in Essex the last few years, I didn't get on with the ones I tried around here they were too strict/picky IMO.

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The first tester I tried up here for the Mondeo wanted something like £250 to supply/replace the rear brakes. Yes they needed doing but the parts are £50 so £200 for an hours labour is abit steep!

 

The council run MOT station (just do tests no repairs) moaned about my sat nav holder, my airfreshener and the slightly blue tint on my headlight bulbs, even though they were legal.

 

Getting it done in Essex is no bother, I can tie it in with seeing the family so for now I'm happy using that place. They don't fish for work and know I always maintain the cars. The Civic for instance has had a new wheel bearing, ball joint, drop links and front brake pads in the last month or so.

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When i worked at STS the tester there would get a bonus if he sold headlight alignment and wheel alignment, make of that what you will :whistle:

 

"Sold" headlight alignment? Is that a thing? In the past if my headlights have been out of line during an MOT they just adjust them while doing the test!

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When i worked at STS the tester there would get a bonus if he sold headlight alignment and wheel alignment, make of that what you will :whistle:

 

"Sold" headlight alignment? Is that a thing? In the past if my headlights have been out of line during an MOT they just adjust them while doing the test!

 

 

+1 - sounds like a scam!

 

I can't even remember the last time I need the headlight alignment done but I think it only takes a minute or two?

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  • 1 month later...

So I've been thinking of changing the fan belt soon as it's looking abit worn now and had a look in the Haynes to see how it's done. It only goes around 3 pulleys so I thought it would be easy but it seems I have to remove the wheel, remove arch liner, loosen the alternator to release the tension and then I can change it. What a faff!  :banghead:

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  • 1 month later...

Just had a text from the missus saying the car won't start! Her Dad came out and got it started, I guess he jump started it but she never said. He thinks it might be the alternator but I'm pretty sure the battery light comes on if that's the issue?

 

The battery is only 2 years old but I think all her town driving is killing it. She does a couple of miles, turns off car, starts it, does a couple more miles, turns the car off and repeat several times every day! It does get a run on the motorway for 10 miles sometimes but I reckon it's new battery time.

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Guess you'll need to put a meter on it , but the first sign of cold weather will always highlight a poor battery

 

I was once told it takes 7 miles of driving to top up the battery after starting it . Is a battery conditioner out of the question at your place ?

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That's an interesting fact, I guess it definitely takes more than a couple of miles! I'll take it off later and charge it overnight, she doesn't need the car tomorrow.

 

I could probably use a battery conditioner but when would you leave that plugged in, every night or once a week just to make sure it's fully charged?

 

I might get one of these testers, I hate using multi meters - http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/battery-and-alternator-checker-fu00a

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She don't do many miles so just the yearly ones.

 

Apparently when she tried it was turning over but was getting a scraping noise and it wouldn't start but when her Dad turned up it start straight away.

 

Sounds like the starter motor might have got stuck?

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