SMARTLY Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I blame the mechanic not the driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I fitted the new caliper over a year ago but I'm certain it's the cables. The drag marks were from both wheels so it looks like both of them didn't release at all or not properly. Could just be the handbrake/cable between the lever and where it joins the 2 that attach to each caliper. If that didn't release properly then the calipers wouldn't, I think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 When the cables go they normally show a blown area? By that i mean there's an expansion in the cable housing like a ring a worm gets when cut in half and heals... Again normally this is in a bend or connection point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I had a look yesterday afternoon, it was bloody freezing but needed doing. I couldn't see any blown areas on the cable from what I could see anyway. I took the NSR wheel off, which is the side I replaced the caliper and the disc/pad edges were bright red!! The pads have even wear and there is around 3/4 of the material left, I fitted them (and the caliper) 15 months ago. Before stripping it down I tried turning the wheel with the handbrake off and it wouldn't budge. I had to prise the caliper off and the outer pad, I couldn't pull it by hand. When I fitted these I filed the paint off the edges as well and they were a nice fit but I couldn't believe how much crap was on there (the rear is quite open on the Civic), it had even got underneath the metal clips the pads sit on, which is why it couldn't slide. I filed the edges some more and cleaned the pads, plus everything else and refitted with some copper grease. Using mole grips on the end of the cable I could pull it out and push it in by around 10mm and it didn't show any resistance. Could a seized pad have caused the handbrake to go floppy? This is why I thought it was the cable but it looks like that is fine, unless I had freed it off when pulling it out. I took it for a quick spin and it seems to be fine now, the wheel spins freely and the handbrake is ok. The other side was also ok so I left that for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Odd it's got so bad so fast... Are they wind out pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Yes they wind out and the slot is lined up with the notch on the back of the pad. The caliper/pad was just covered in dirt and brake dust but there doesn't seem to be much protection around the area. Abit like the Accord Tourer, that is open at the rear hence why so many owners have seized calipers. I think I will be doing a yearly strip down and clean on both cars now. What causes the handbrake lever to feel floppy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Not sure with a wind out piston since it's always in contact with the pad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 If pads are jammed on then handbrake cable will be floppy as there is no where for it to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 If you apply the handbrake the pads move and touch the discs. If a pad got jammed in this position it would stop the caliper releasing when the handbrake is released so it's not taken up the cable slack, which is why it feels floppy. That's what I thought? Beat me to it Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S2IM Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 When the brakes binded on the rears of our old Civic the handbrake lever went floppy. Only once the brakes freed up the lever grabbed again so sounds like the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I think an annual clean is definitely needed and it doesn't take long. Would certainly prevent hassle like this from happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Well yeah in hindsight but it's not the normal thing to have to do. Maybe try a different grease something like calliper slider grease? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 It seems to be a common problem on the Honda's, there are loads of threads on the Accord forum about the rear brakes seizing. I think it's just down to inadequate protection of the area so I can't see a different grease helping if the elements will just remove it over time and the brakes get covered in crap. I think prevention is better than cure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Well if it's a design problem then there's no other way... Odd for a car like the Accord since it has a historical build so you would think during the generations this problem would have been eradicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Well if it's a design problem then there's no other way... Odd for a car like the Accord since it has a historical build so you would think during the generations this problem would have been irradiated. It's only on the Tourer where the rear of the car is exposed, I don't think it's a common problem on the Saloon. I don't really visit the Civic forums so not sure how common it is but the dirt in the rear wheel arches is an inch thick and I pressure washed them a few months ago! I should've got a photo to show how bad it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Grinding more off the pad wings would help but then they chatter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 The starting issue has just started again so I got to see what it was doing. The engine starts but immediately stops but if I hold the throttle it'll run until I let go and then it stalls. So it doesn't seem to be the starter as I first thought but then I didn't see what was happening the last time. There is no CEL on the dash so I assume no codes to read. I've read it might be the main (fuel) relay but could it be anything else? How do you test a relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Doesn't sound like the starter from those symptoms more like fuel starvation. Is there a fuel filer. is it clean. Relays are fairly cheap but here is a video to test one ( suggest you connect via the lighter socket rather than direct to battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gIZ0weS7iU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 There is a fuel shut off switch behind the glove box, it's actually called an inertia switch. If this triggers you need to press the button to activate I again. I can't find the main relay ATM and it's freezing outside so I've come in. I've also read it could be the ignition switch, an air leak or even the timing belt but with no error code I'm clueless. I might have to call someone out for this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 What about the fuel filter, it was really cold last night so water or wax in the filter could be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Wouldn't have thought an air leak would go away or a fault with the timing belt. Does sound like maybe fuel filter ( not filer as in my previous post ) or maybe over choking. When does it do it? From cold, or when warm or both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 I'm not 100% sure it's the same problem now. When it happened 2 months ago the missus said it was making a strange noise and isn't sure if it started at all or stalled immediately now. The car had been perfect since, which is why I put it down to a stuck starter motor. The car wasn't used yesterday but was fine the day before. Tried starting it tonight and it sounded normal just kept stalling. Although I didn't hold the revs for long it didn't stall until I let go. If the fuel filter or even relay was at fault wouldn't the car still stall while holding the revs if fuel wasn't getting through? I didn't think to hold them until the engine had warmed up so I'm not sure if that would stop it. There is an inline fuel filter near the tank, which I've never changed, plus the filter in the tank itself, which I'd imagine is a nightmare to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Obviously some fuel is still getting through but I'm thinking the flow may be restricted? Is it auto-choke as that if it got stuck could demonstrate same symptoms. Think you need to start it and see if you can run it through the stalling ........................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 The one in the tank is gained by lifting the rear seat and there's an access door. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Obviously some fuel is still getting through but I'm thinking the flow may be restricted? Is it auto-choke as that if it got stuck could demonstrate same symptoms. Think you need to start it and see if you can run it through the stalling ........................... I assume the choke is auto, aren't all modern cars nowadays? I'm sure it's an electrical fault, it's not spluttering to a stall, it's like I've started the car and turned it off immediately with the key. It doesn't even run for a second or 2, I start it, the rev counter rises and instantly drops to zero then the stall happens. I checked all the fuses this morning they seem ok and I've just found out what the relays are for in the engine bay, none are for the fuel pump or ignition etc. I'll plug the laptop in tonight to see if any codes are being read and I'll try and warm the car up by holding the revs and see what happens. The one in the tank is gained by lifting the rear seat and there's an access door. Yes but they're very fragile and the securing rings can break easily (I don't have the tool to undo it) so I'd rather not touch it unless I really have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.