liner33 Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 just dont park in long grass , its there for a reason but i wouldnt worry about not having it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagitar Posted January 6, 2013 Report Share Posted January 6, 2013 just dont park in long grass , its there for a reason but i wouldnt worry about not having it Yep. I took part in an archery tournament at Knebworth House where all the parking was on a grass verge with longish, dry grass. There was a grass fire under one of the cars and I gathered that the under shield on it had been removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 just dont park in long grass , its there for a reason but i wouldnt worry about not having it That's more with the bottom shield isn't it? That's been off since we got the car but it's never parked in long grass. I'd imagine there are thousands of cars without them on from where they've rusted and fallen off so no I won't be worrying about it, especially as there is also another shield above the CAT as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Most after market cats don't come with a shield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Looks like the aircon has a leak or the compressor has gone. It was regassed last September and was icey cold but now it's just warm air. They did put dye in it as well so I want to get a UV torch to see if I can spot any leaks on the condenser. It's suppose to be a common problem on the Civic cos of the bumper design. Stones can get through it and hit the condenser putting holes in it but just want to check before I replace it. Anyone got a UV torch, would this one be ok as I'll probably only use it once? I do have an LED version of this torch and it is cheap but does the job! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UV-Ultra-Violet-Blacklight-12-LED-AAA-Battery-Flashlight-Torch-Lamp-Light-UK-/330917338715?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&hash=item4d0c35de5b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 I still haven't looked at the air con, I will one day! I also need to grease every bush on the car, it's been making some horrible squeaks when it's been very warm and dry. The car passed it's MOT on Saturday with just one advisory. One of the rear pads has worn down more than the other side, probably down to a sticky piston/slider pins. Now I only replaced these 2 years ago and the discs don't have lips on them. I usually replace the discs when I do pads but would I get away with just doing the pads this time? Will I feel any vibration when braking by using the old discs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 Probably find one of the pads is seized in the carrier, easy fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 A hammer will soon sort that! I had a look earlier and the pad is almost to the metal. Think I will just change the discs anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Give the carrier a good clean as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 I will be, was going to hammerite them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 No black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 FFFT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 What a waste of a morning, looks like the piston is seized solid. I don't have a caliper rewind tool but a screwdriver is usually fine. I couldn't get it to budge, even pushing the pedal it wouldn't move out.A new caliper is £70 from brakes international but we are going away on Friday and there isn't much pad left. I'm sure it will be fine but I would rather get it sorted beforehand.I could spend £50 on the tools I need or get it sorted at WIM. I think I should get a rewind tool anyway but need the hose clamp and bleed kit. I have never bled brakes so should learn how to do it really.Is it necessary to replace calipers in pairs? The other side seems fine, the pads have a lot more meat on them. Not much left! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 No you don't need to replace them in pairs.... How is the disc, has it overheated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 The disc is fine I think, no smoke, not red but does have a few marks on it from where I assume the pad has been rubbing. It's not binding on completely locking it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted September 10, 2013 Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 What you need to look for is a blue disc, that indicates it's overheated. What i would do though is make sure the pads on the other side move free in the carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2013 Nope it's not blue, just looks normal to me and like the other side. The pads on this side came out very easily so hopefully the other side will as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Odd that the calliper has failed like this, is it a known thing for this car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 I don't know TBH not had a look. The car has done over 105k miles so I guess it's just died from old age or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 And yet the other one is fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 But I had a caliper go on the Corolla and the other side was fine, although I replaced it for peace of mind. Must just be one of those things - what else can stop the piston rewinding? I was starting to chew the piston up trying to move it so it was seized solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Problem with the rear callipers is they move very little when applied so their susceptible to dirt and rust. Maybe the service should include checking/ greasing the piston and ensuring the rubber gasket is intact? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Well I changed it today, had the time so thought I'd give it a go myself. Considering I changed the discs/pads 2 years ago they were very rusty and I had to give everything a very good clean. Fitted the new caliper ok and luckily the piston on the other side turned with very little effort. I tried the seized side again but it just wasn't having it. After fitting the caliper I found a little leaflet in the box about fitting them and not to put copper grease on the back on the pad that's on the piston side. Now I've always put grease on both pads on every car I've worked on so does that mean I shouldn't be? It also said about adjusting the piston so there is less than 1mm play in the caliper but I thought when you brake a few times it should sort itself out? I'll probably check them again once we're back from holiday. I was hoping that I could just bleed the replacement caliper but ended up doing all of them (well I just pumped the pedal!) and it seems to have made alot of difference, braking it much sharper now so it obviously needed it. I had also ordered a caliper rewind kit and hose clamp for this job but both arrived too late but at least I have them for next time. I think I will check/clean these once a year now so hopefully it doesn't happen again. Photo of the pads on the other good side. Photo of the disc on the side with the seized piston. Compared to the good side it is red where it's rusty, not blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Well done for doing it yourself...... Do you think the sized caliper had a bearing on the tyre/ handling issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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