SMARTLY Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Have you tried that fiddle ( move it around a bit while car is running ) with the ignition switch to check that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 No not yet, I'll check all the fuses later just in case something has blown, which is causing it not to start. Then I'll try that fuel switch and look for the relay again. We've managed to borrow a car off a friend for the time being, they broke their arm so can't drive ATM. I think we're going to call the AA out on Thursday if I've not found the issue by then and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 The car we've borrowed we can use for about 2 weeks so hopefully that's plenty of time to sort this out. I had to move the Civic over on the driveway to get this car on and I really ache this morning from pushing it. I think I should've got someone to help me! The car is also the same as this one apart from it's a manual so I might be able to swap parts (if they're easy to remove) to help find the fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 What a pain.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I took the battery out earlier to charge it, which said it was at 50% but it only took 10 minutes to reach 75%, then an hour to hit 100%. I took the airbox off to look at the IACV but didn't remove it. Unplugged a few things and made sure they were in properly, everything seemed ok. It still wouldn't start so left it. Iain has just come round and told me to open the throttle right up while I tried starting it and I cranked it for longer this time and it eventually fired. I had tried opening the throttle before but not all the way. The exhaust stunk of petrol once it started. Took it for a run and it was fine. So would could've happened, something caused a blockage maybe with the injectors? I'll get some redex to put in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 So it was effectively trying to run too rich then, if it happens again take a sparkplug out and see if it's wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I was wondering if I might have flooded the engine where I kept trying to start it and opening the throttle added more air so it started and burnt the fuel off. I'll use the car for work tomorrow and see how it behaves from cold. I've read it can be anything from O2 sensor, IACV, fuel pressure regulator to coolant sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Could be O2 sensor , best bet would be take it for a run and then pull a plug out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Try plugging in a code reader that shows live data and see if the ecu notes the coolant temp is correct to the actual temperature of the coolant. A dodgy or out of reading sensor does not show a fault code (unless it is out of circuit). The engine will run in open loop mode until the engine gets to a certain temp... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I'll plug the laptop in to do that although it's becoming a chore. I might get a Bluetooth elm327 adapter and use android for data logging. ScanXL I find quite confusing to use. How will I know what the real coolant temperature is if the ecu reads it as something else or do I need to find out what it should be from Honda? The car warms up very quickly and doesn't overheat. I always thought if a sensor was faulty it would throw a code up, not just when it's dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S2IM Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I've got dashcommand and a wifi ELM reader on the iPad. It reads all the sensors so can help you with that if you want. Used it on the MINI for measuring boost and intake temps. But I would wait to see if the car dpes it again personally. It seemed fine after it started tonight and the fuel smell disappeared after 30 seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 I was wondering if I might have flooded the engine where I kept trying to start it and opening the throttle added more air so it started and burnt the fuel off. Exactly right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 I've got dashcommand and a wifi ELM reader on the iPad. It reads all the sensors so can help you with that if you want. Used it on the MINI for measuring boost and intake temps. But I would wait to see if the car dpes it again personally. It seemed fine after it started tonight and the fuel smell disappeared after 30 seconds. Are the wifi ones only for Apple devices and bluetooth for Android and maybe Windows? I'll take a look at yours then see what I think but I'll probably get a bluetooth adapter anyway (they're cheap enough) and try to use it with my old HD2 running android or the Nexus 7. It'll be easier to see what's happening in real time without looking at the laptop, although you can record on that and play it back. I was wondering if I might have flooded the engine where I kept trying to start it and opening the throttle added more air so it started and burnt the fuel off. Exactly right It started first time this morning without having to open the throttle so hopefully the starting issue was just a flooded engine. It seemed to drive fine, the only thing I noticed was a higher idle (850 rpm) but I'm not sure if the Civic has a learn procedure like my Accord. I was unplugging and reseating various sensors yesterday so probably upset it. Having said that I don't use the car often so it could've been like this for a while and the missus wouldn't of realised. This still doesn't help explain why the car kept stalling immediately after starting though. I was pressing the fuel cut off switch a few times yesterday so maybe it was that but the car obviously wouldn't start cos of the flooded engine. I didn't know about this switch until after we'd tried starting the car a few times and looked on Google. The engine uses the fuel that's left, which will start the car but it won't pump any more in so it stalls. That is the only thing I can think of and used switches are £10 on ebay so I might get one just in case. I'll check the spark plugs when I get home and see what condition they're in. I replaced them 10k miles ago so they should still look relatively new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Well you could have a result there but i would still like to know why the problem initiated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Well you could have a result there but i would still like to know why the problem initiated. As I said I think it was this fuel cut off switch, apparently it can trip if you hit rough surfaces. There is abit of a lip on the drop kerb and where the Civic is parked on the drive there is another lip to bump up cos it's not level. The switch would have to be really sensitive for those to trip it though. Or there was a blockage that has cleared itself but with no error codes there isn't much I can do and just see if it happens again. I'll get a new gasket for the IACV and give that a clean, it's done almost 120k miles and I'd imagine has never been done before. At least I can see what condition it's in then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Might be worth getting some injector cleaner as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Fuel cut off switch is designed to operate in an accident, bumping up a kerb shouldn't activate it unless maybe the sensor or wiring is faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 The coolant is definitely due a change and the cambelt does have another 20k miles before it's due so in 3 years time but I'll get it done before then. I'm wondering if I should replace the temperature sensor and thermostat while the system is empty. There is alot of crystallized coolant around the hose that goes into the stat housing so it's been seeping out slowly. I've never topped the coolant up in the 3.5 years we've had it but I noticed the expansion tank is on the minimum now. It's in the most awkward place to check the level, down towards the bottom of the car inside the bumper so I am always forgetting to check! Those 2 parts from Honda would cost £100 though so I'd used pattern parts but then I'm thinking if it ain't broke leave it alone!! I can get 7 litres of premixed coolant from Honda for £29 delivered and I've already got 5 litres to do the Accord so will have some spare for topping up then. Might be worth getting some injector cleaner as well. Yes I'm going to or stick a tank of super in there. Fuel cut off switch is designed to operate in an accident, bumping up a kerb shouldn't activate it unless maybe the sensor or wiring is faulty. Yes that's right so if it did trip going into the drive it could be faulty. The car drove home fine last Friday, wasn't used Saturday, then kept stalling Sunday until it wouldn't start at all. I can't think of any reason why it would do that when it had previously been fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 "I can't think of any reason why it would do that when it had previously been fine", the cold comes to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 True it could have been something to do with that but then it wasn't freezing like it has been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Well it's something to watch out for because now it's warmed up a bit all seems well with the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 If it is cold related then that could be anything causing the issue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Protective spray over the vitals might help but you need to see if cold -V- frost is the criminal first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Yeah next time it's really cold I'll try starting the car first and see what happens. I just found this, it's a good read and will help me with the checks I might need to do - http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/us80530.htm If it's a vacuum leak (I don't think it is otherwise I should have issues all the time) how do you find these on things like the manifold? The sensors I will have to check what they're doing but I might keep an eye on ebay and see if I can pick any up on the cheap for testing purposes. I'll get a new throttle body and IACV gasket and remove the whole thing to clean up properly rather than do it in situ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 I'd still look for live data to confirm. Cheaper than part swapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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