Tony Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 You need to find a different hobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 On the plus side it doesn't take me long to strip brakes down now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 True i'll give you that....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I'm fairly certain the coolant is spitting out of the bottom hose where it connects to the thermostat!! The rubber hose does look old and could do with being replaced, the same for the top hose but there's no splits in them. I'm wondering if I'll get away with swapping the clip over for a jubliee one and tightening it abit more? Then if the leak stops I can get some new hoses. I can't find any hoses for this car though so might have to go with genuine ones from Honda, which I think are £40 for both hoses. I might as well replace the stat at the same time too and the coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 There's a fair amount of corrosion there but they don't seem to be leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 The corrosion has always been there, since before we bought the car. Isn't the white stuff dried crusty coolant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 No it's oxidised aluminium, the same crud you get on a wheel.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Really, I've never noticed that on alloys before Unless it's the stat housing gasket then I'm not sure where it's coming from. It could be the rad but it's difficult to see that as it's tucked inside of the front bumper with the fans on the top. Although there are 2 other hoses at the bottom of the rad as well so I need to check those too, which means removing the bumper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 You know when alloys get that stupid slow leak it's because the bead line has corrosion like that on it.... One common area for water to leak is the temperature sender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Ah right, so we never see that kind of corrosion then unless the tyre is removed. The sender looks ok, it's to the left of the middle photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Isn't there one on the rad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I can't see it on the diagram above, I've only ever seen them on the engine block or around the stat area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 What colour is the coolant, if it's blue then there is some blue on that last picture. Is it losing water i.e. level dropping? Can you see it anywhere ( newspaper / cardboard underneath helps )? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I didn't spot the blue! The coolant I'm topping it up with is genuine Honda stuff and it's turquoise. I'm not sure what colour was already in there though but I've used at least a litre topping it up. I've just looked in the Haynes manual and the second photo is the radiator fan switch. The last photo is the coolant temperature sensor. Yes it's losing quite abit of coolant now, I'm topping it up monthly but have never seen any signs of wetness. I'll have to get some cardboard to put underneath. I'll check those sensors tomorrow and make sure they're not loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHAHZ Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Coolant leak on the Civic and the 5 And the Accord as well!! The Civic is the worse though, I'll put some photos up in as minute. Blimey, that's a bit of bad luck Rich that all have the same issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Yeah it's not ideal especially with winter coming, although the MX5 will be off the road anyway. I topped the Civic's coolant up on Thursday, just below the maximum mark. I've just checked it now and it's down to halfway already! Topped it up again and we're going out now so will check it again tomorrow morning. I tried a socket on the coolant sensor and it's tight so unless the O ring has gone it seems ok. The radiator switch I need to put a wrench on and check how tight that is. Then I guess it's just a matter of going through everything trying to find it. With that much coolant loss it should be obvious hopefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I take it the engine oil is clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Yes the oil is clean, no mayo on the cap. This is annoying now, I just checked the coolant level after doing about 20 miles yesterday and it's not budged!! I removed the resonator box earlier and gave the whole area a clean up. It's fairly rusty, I'm wondering if this car used to live near the sea. There are signs of dried water on the bottom hose but I can't be sure if that's coolant or condensation. The bottom of the hose was still damp as well. I think I might be better off replacing the housing and get another egr in better condition. Then swap the sensors and fit a new stat. The car is also fogging up very quickly when it rains and you stop for more than a minute. I have never seen a car fog up so quickly and nothing would clear it apart from wiping the screen and waiting to move off. It's fine while driving and the windows were open a fraction to let the air circulate. The aircon is only working for 10 minutes ATM and then it stops, but even when it's working it doesn't clear the windows! I've checked the footwells for wet areas and the boot, everything is dry. The pollen filter is only a few months old and still clean. I assume I fitted it the right way with the arrow pointing down so air flows through it into the cabin? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Ah if it's fogging up you need to check the heater matrix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 That's why I checked the footwell and it's bone dry so can't be leaking. I hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Can you see the matrix.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Just checked the haynes and it's behind the dash in the middle, so had a feel around there at the back and it's damp, but not soaked! FFS! It's sealed in a box so if it's leaking that could be why it's not soaked. It's a massive job to change it. I know it's not ideal but I might try some kseal and see if it stops it. I assume using the heater/having it up high would make the matrix leak quicker than having it on cold? The Haynes also says the aircon needs degassing if removing it. The pipes are next to the heater ones but it looks like the evaporater is in the same enclosure as the matrix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Oh bugger...... Remember the fan has nothing to do with the water but as a tester put the flow on cold and see how the water level goes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I checked the level this morning, the car was only used for about 5 miles yesterday and it's gone down a fraction now. I was thinking about this heater matrix and if that was leaking surely there would be a strong smell of coolant in the cabin? It's inside a box, which is connected to the vents so I should smell it. When I felt around the area yesterday (under the box) it was a little damp but later in the day I checked again and it seemed to have gone, so maybe it was just cold the first time. I need to be 100% sure this is leaking before I even think about replacing it. This is what needs removing from behind the dash - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Civic-MK7-00-05-1-6-petrol-heater-matrix-housing-box-1123-/391100144979?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda%7CModel%3ACivic&hash=item5b0f629d53:g:BvUAAOSwrklVGnUC I've only had a quick google but I'm having trouble finding somewhere that sells new ones, there is no point fitting a used one with a job this big. But as the aircon needs degassing I might as well replace the evaporator as well but then a new one isn't going to be cheap. As the aircon keeps turning off after 10 minutes, which I think is compressor related I might as well replace that too. So add all of that up and you're probably talking £200-£300 in parts at a guess, plus getting the aircon regassed. The cambelt is due as well and that will be around £300-£400. The car is 13 years old but has 123k miles on it now so is only worth £800-£1k max. So I'm thinking maybe just use some Kseal, get it through the winter and then replace it next year with something newer that's more economical around town as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 The cambelt is due as well and that will be around £300-£400. The car is 13 years old but has 123k miles on it now so is only worth £800-£1k max. So I'm thinking maybe just use some Kseal, get it through the winter and then replace it next year with something newer that's more economical around town as well. That would be my plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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