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Honda Civic 1.6. SE Executive Auto


Rich
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Had you used one of these before and had problems?

 

Use them all the time with no problems but this seems to be happening at random now. First time with 1/3 tank, second almost empty, third almost full. No engine light either.

 

Can't remember if this has been covered, but have you spoken to any dealers to see if this is a potentially known/common issue?

 

No I haven't but that's a good idea. The Civic forum is rubbish, no help on there at all!

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Well the AA guy didn't have a clue! The missus said he banged a few parts and then it started - that old trick! :lol:

 

Could possibly be the ICV getting blocked (waits for liner to say I told you so) so I'll order the new gasket and get it cleaned or maybe look for a replacement as well in case it's the sensor.

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When it starts and then stalls it just cuts out instantly, doesn't feel rough at all. If you hold the revs and let go it does the same just cuts out.

 

Found a good guide here to cleaning everything, it's the same engine - http://www.civicforums.com/forums/115-engine/309151-diy-forgotten-tune-up-mods.html

 

I might replace the O2 sensor as well.

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The first time was stone cold, the second the car had been sitting for 2 hours, the third (today) after it had been sitting for an hour. She went to where she was going, it started and drove fine, went to leave there and it kept stalling.

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Unlikely to be a temp sender then and that's what i was getting at.

 

Does sound like the ICV but i wont take any credit unless it turns out to be that , very difficult trying to diagnose a fault across cyberspace

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The only reason I didn't remove it before is I didn't want to disturb the gaskets, a new TB one is about £18 and I think that needs to come off to unbolt the ICV. It's at times like this you wish the CEL was on, it would make it easier to diagnose then.

 

What I don't understand is if the ICV was the culprit why doesn't the idle fluctuate once the engine is running.

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Revving the car is obviously letting the air flow through the TB but when that's closed it relies on the ICV to stop the engine from stalling? If a car had no ICV, i.e. it packed up completely the car would start ok but stall like it is doing?

 

So every time it's happend the car has been sitting for a while meaning the value could be sticking closed once it cools down. Would letting the engine warm up be freeing it off (the crap is getting soft) so it starts to open and operate as normal? Obviously this time it didn't work but whatever the AA guy hit did something. She is going to show me later what he whacked, she sensibly asked him to show her.

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Possibly , you will only know when you look at it . I had issues with my Skyline one and it was really gunked up with soot , i seem to recall i just replaced the one on my Evo , that would work most of the time but if you suddenly came off the throttle it would stall

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When the guy turned up (it was actually the RAC) he didn't have a clue, said he'd never seen a problem like this before.

 

Tried it a few times and it kept stalling so removed the airbox and tried wiggling a few things, which didn't work. So he tapped some of the sensors and valves and that's when it started idling ok. So he put on the sheet he did a temporary repair!

 

He told the missus the ICV was at the front but I know it's to the side, he was looking at the throttle position sensor. It's a good job I already know where it is.

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I removed the housing the ICV is bolted to yesterday but it's held on with 5 point bolts and all my bits are for 6 so I'll have to buy some of those.

 

I cleaned it up as best I could without removing it and I'm not sure if before the clean it's classed as dirty enough to cause issues?

 

WP_20150305_12_02_28_Pro.jpg

 

WP_20150305_12_02_45_Pro.jpg

 

WP_20150305_12_19_39_Pro.jpg

 

Using carb cleaner, a rag and cotton buds it cleaned up pretty well.

 

WP_20150305_12_18_35_Pro.jpg

 

WP_20150305_12_18_57_Pro.jpg

 

I also removed the vtec solenoid to clean but it wasn't clogged up and looked very cleaned.

 

I couldn't remove the EGR valve, the whole area it's bolted to (thermostat housing) is very rusty and I didn't want to snap the bolts. Plus I couldn't even get the socket on square, it's in such an awkward position, I think the safest way is to remove the housing first and then the EGR. As we have no emission issues I'll leave it though, no point risking a sheared bolt.

 

The car started and ran before the ICV was cleaned and again afterwards so I'll just have to see if it happened again. The rpms were a little bit eractic when coming off the throttle but it should settle soon hopefully or I'll have to reset the ECU and do the idle learn procedure.

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Although they don't say they are more than likely the 6 point ones, I have plenty of those. These bolts are 5 points, I need these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverhill-Point-Star-Torx-bits/dp/B003ALOG06

 

They're supposed to be tamper proof, which is why they're 5 point star shaped and not 6.

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  • 3 months later...

So 3 months on and it's been fine until this afternoon. The missus text me and said the car was fine this morning but this afternoon when slowing down the revs dropped and it felt like it was going to stall but it didn't. I'm not sure if this is related to the previous starting problem, what do we think, could it be the IACV is knackered?

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Well I took it out and got the engine warm, didn't do it from cold or hot and stayed at 700rpm whenever I stopped! It's so frustrating when it's intermittent and there's no CEL!

 

I did notice the coolant has gone down though, I topped it up to the max when I cleaned the IACV and it's gone down about 1/2 - 2/3. There is alot of crud around the thermostat housing, which has been there for a while but I reckon there must be a leak.

 

There are 2 coolant hoses from the IACV housing that bolts to the throttle body as per the photos above. If this seal is gone then I believe that can cause coolant to leak into the engine. The rubber gasket looked ok when I removed it and I also used some silicone sealant so hopefully it's not that.

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I was referring to the idle dropping, it must be something to do with the throttle body or sensors attached to it. If it was a vacuum leak wouldn't the problem be there constantly? I can get a used TB with all the sensors attached for £15-£20 on ebay so can swap parts to try.

 

The coolant loss is a different issue and yes I thought it might affect the engine if it was getting inside. Before I filled it up it had been just above the minimum mark since we got the car, this was the first time I'd ever topped it up as well. Maybe it doesn't like the expansion tank being full?  :unsure:

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