Rich Posted May 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 I know this might read odd but does it have a filter for the gearbox oil as well? I changed that about 1k miles ago, it didn't make that much difference TBH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Was it polluted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 I have no idea, it's a sealed unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Just would have been a visual clue to when the oil was last changed..... Seems to me like never? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 It was done at 75k miles when it is first due but I'd imagine it was only done the once and alot of the owners who have changed their oil said this interval is too long anyway. Also when I did the second change there was no swarf on the magnet this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Well that's a great sign, at least you know it's all working correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I think the exhaust will have to be fitted at WIM, I just had a good look at the bolts/nuts and they are very rusty!!!! It's gonna be too much aggro for me to jack the whole car up and then get underneath to cut them off. I can't see them undoing but have given them a good soak anyway. I also took my drivers seat out to try and cure the sliding issue when accelerating/braking/cornering hard. I found this thread on a US forum - http://www.v6performance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/210468-drivers-seat-fix.html I thought I'd give it a go and it's only 2 bolts to remove, prise the rubber bush out, rotate it and put it back in. It bloody worked as well!!! Just been for a test drive with lots of hard braking, accelerating and cornering - the seat is rock solid now. I need to do the passenger seat as well but will do that next week, cos I need to disconnect the battery for the airbag and then do the idle learn procedure when I connect it back up. Underneath of bush. You can see when it's been crushed at the sides over the years, so I turned it 90 degrees so the flat side is now in that position. Time will tell as to how long it'll last but Honda recommend replacing the entire seat frame (£1,000) whereas all you need to do is replace the bush! IMG_20140327_110047.jpg Well this fix didn't last long and the sliding is back with a vengeance now! It was fine for at least 2-3 weeks before I felt any movement again so it's got to be these grommets. Honda don't sell the grommets as I asked, you need to buy the complete seat frame at a cost of around £1k!!! I am obviously going to have to remove it again to measure it and look for replacements. I was thinking of maybe getting some custom made but there is usually a minimum order value, I can't see them being cheap and I don't want to be stuck with loads of grommets I can't sell. I only need 4 to do both front seats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Get a dozen or two and sell the rest on eBay You won't be the only one with this problem. Are they plastic or rubber? If they are rubber I'm sure you could get something from a decent Motor Factors even if they are plastic maybe rubber replacement would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Get a dozen or two and sell the rest on eBay You won't be the only one with this problem. Are they plastic or rubber? If they are rubber I'm sure you could get something from a decent Motor Factors even if they are plastic maybe rubber replacement would work. Yes I was thinking that but it seems more of a common problem in the US than over here, there are hardly any complaints about it on the forums so I'm not sure I could sell them. They are rubber, which is why they've got squashed out of shape over time and have splits from being pressed against the hole they sit in. These have a flat surface and all the grommets I've seen have rounded ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I'm sure you could use a normal grommet in that, worth trying anyway - can't believe they want you to replace the whole frame just to replace that little bit of rubber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I'm sure you could use a normal grommet in that, worth trying anyway - can't believe they want you to replace the whole frame just to replace that little bit of rubber! Yeah I'll buy a selection and see if they fit, they don't cost much. Ideally I need to go to a shop that sells loads of them and compare in the flesh. It's crazy they don't sell the grommet on it's own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Here: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Auto-Performance-Silicone-Hoses/Rubber-Grommets-/_i.html?_fsub=2350588 http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_258301_langId_-1_categoryId_255228 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I had seen the Halfords ones, pricey compared to everywhere else! The ebay ones look good, shame they don't say what the thickness is and the space between the top and bottom lips. I'll try and get one of them out without removing the seat, otherwise it means disconnecting the battery and then I have to go through the idle learn procedure again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S2IM Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Can you take an old one off and go to somewhere like the motor spares shop in St Albans road or Apsley? I did that on the MX5 Ariel when I needed a rubber grommet to make it seal properly. The chap was really helpful for 20p and spent 10 minutes outside trying them all out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 That's good advice, I did the same with a local hardware store when I was trying to find an unusual plumbing washer - spent ages trying to find the right one and then wouldn't even charge me for it afterwards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Yes I might do that, will have to remove it from the passenger side. We're going away on Wednesday so I'll just have to put up with it until we're back and sort it out then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 I think the exhaust will have to be fitted at WIM, I just had a good look at the bolts/nuts and they are very rusty!!!! It's gonna be too much aggro for me to jack the whole car up and then get underneath to cut them off. I can't see them undoing but have given them a good soak anyway. I also took my drivers seat out to try and cure the sliding issue when accelerating/braking/cornering hard. I found this thread on a US forum - http://www.v6performance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/210468-drivers-seat-fix.html I thought I'd give it a go and it's only 2 bolts to remove, prise the rubber bush out, rotate it and put it back in. It bloody worked as well!!! Just been for a test drive with lots of hard braking, accelerating and cornering - the seat is rock solid now. I need to do the passenger seat as well but will do that next week, cos I need to disconnect the battery for the airbag and then do the idle learn procedure when I connect it back up. Underneath of bush. You can see when it's been crushed at the sides over the years, so I turned it 90 degrees so the flat side is now in that position. Time will tell as to how long it'll last but Honda recommend replacing the entire seat frame (£1,000) whereas all you need to do is replace the bush! It looks like some people have added to the link above. They are stating the grommet in this post should fit - http://www.v6performance.net/forums/2388474-post57.html Hopefully it's the same size as what I need but the measurements are confusing me, what is the equivalent of those in mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 I'm still not sure about these brakes. I haven't used the car over the weekend and after a minute of driving when I had to brake the pedal felt really soft. Afterwards it was ok again for the rest of the drive to work. It was pretty warm when I left, could this have been the reason why? The fluid was changed at WIM when the exhaust was fitted so hopefully there is no air in there. I'm praying it's not the master cylinder but maybe I should replace the flexi hoses anyway, the rears are known for going on the tourer. The brakes still have quite abit of meat on them and replacing these will cost £100 but I'd rather not do that if I still have the problem. I think I'd better get someone to take it for a test drive and see what they think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 Any change in the brake fluid level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 I've not checked recently, I will tomorrow. The brakes were ok going home on Monday, yesterday and this morning - no different from how they have been. I firmly pressed the brake pedal in and it didn't move to the floor so I think that means the master cylinder is ok? I'll see what it's like again when I've not used it for a couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Does the peddle pump up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Do you mean pump it a few times and if it goes harder? I tried that and didn't notice any difference. I did an emergency stop earlier as a test and it pulls up quickly but the pedal touches the floor - is that normal, I can't remember? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Pedal shouldn't touch the floor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 No, that's not right Rich Another job for you ........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Bugger, not having a good time with cars ATM. I'm hoping the master cylinder is ok from my other test so maybe it is the flexi hoses expanding too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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