Tony Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Everything has it's day Rich.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I'd turn the heater off for a few days like Tony suggested and watch the level of water. Or even loop the hoses to miss the heater that will show you if the heater is causing it. Easy to do and essential before you tuck into the dashboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 The cambelt is due as well and that will be around £300-£400. The car is 13 years old but has 123k miles on it now so is only worth £800-£1k max. So I'm thinking maybe just use some Kseal, get it through the winter and then replace it next year with something newer that's more economical around town as well. That would be my plan This is my preferred plan but it's convincing the missus, she loves the car but thinks repairing it will be cheaper than replacing. I suppose initially it will be but what about in the long run. I think putting that £600 with £800 for the car towards a newer one is the way to go. I had this with my Mondeo, it got to the point where I was having problem after problem so broke it. That did have 190k miles though! I'd turn the heater off for a few days like Tony suggested and watch the level of water. Or even loop the hoses to miss the heater that will show you if the heater is causing it. Easy to do and essential before you tuck into the dashboard. The heater has been off all weekend and it does seems to have slowed the loss down but I'm going to check it every morning this week to keep an eye on it. The heater is never on hot, always 20-22 degrees max. I thought about looping the hoses together as that will definitely tell me if it's the problem or not. I just need to find some pipe that's the correct size and something to bung the matrix pipes with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 The missus did around 50 miles yesterday including driving around Whipsnade so alot of stop/start driving. It was warm all day so she didn't use the heater and checking the coolant level this morning it's not moved at all. I think this is pointing towards the heater matrix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Well at least you know now.... Problem is if you bypass it then it's not going to be a winter driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Only bypass to prove that's what it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 But changing it is an absolute arse of a job and expensive and the fact it needs a cam belt as well make you really think, well it would me anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Only bypass to prove that's what it is I'll keep an eye on it while the heaters not being used but if it starts dropping alot once we do then it must be the culprit. But changing it is an absolute arse of a job and expensive and the fact it needs a cam belt as well make you really think, well it would me anyway. I have no intention of changing it TBH and I can't even find a new one to buy, maybe that's why. I know there are companies who recondition used ones but with the cambelt due I don't think it's worth it. I'll put some kseal in, which will hopefully get it through the winter and try to sort the air con issue out as that would be a selling point on a car this old then get rid of it next year. We've had it 4 years 4 months and it's been relatively trouble free apart from replacing a caliper and that starting issue, which was the IACV. I told the missus last night it's going next year - she took it well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Ah so this could explain your other car finance thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 You got me sussed out mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyelcomb Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 But with modern cars the coolant circulates through the heater matrix all the time and you only control the heat by altering blanking plates. So it shouldn't make any difference if the heater is "on" or "off" in respect of leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 But with modern cars the coolant circulates through the heater matrix all the time and you only control the heat by altering blanking plates. So it shouldn't make any difference if the heater is "on" or "off" in respect of leaks. Yes you do have a point there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Not sure if this points to anything but I checked the level earlier and it's just above the minimum mark now. Yesterday morning it was practically on maximum! The car was used for under 20 miles yesterday but not continuously and all town driving so lots of stop/starting. Monday the car did 50 miles (M25, A and B roads) but didn't drop at all. As a guess I would estimate it takes around 400ml of coolant between minimum and maximum. It can't be a slow leak to lose that much in a day, it would go down gradually over time like it does in my Accord. I don't have to top that up for months at a time. I'm not so sure it is the matrix now, if there was a leak big enough to lose that much coolant at once then it should be pouring out all the time? Could it be the radiator cap? Although I did check this was on tight and can't see any coolant runs, maybe it's losing pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 You need to have the system pressure tested. It's a bit like an air con pressure test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Yeah I think I do, I'm just guessing where it could be now. Who does pressure testing for coolant systems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Most garages have the kit , you can buy one fairly cheaply iirc http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-15-PCS-Cooling-System-Radiator-Pressure-Tester-Test-Detector-Set-Kit-Auto-UK-/251355699789?hash=item3a85f79a4d:g:yQ4AAOSwjVVViBmV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Maybe gas test at the same time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Most garages have the kit , you can buy one fairly cheaply iirc http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-15-PCS-Cooling-System-Radiator-Pressure-Tester-Test-Detector-Set-Kit-Auto-UK-/251355699789?hash=item3a85f79a4d:g:yQ4AAOSwjVVViBmV I take it these just pressurise the system and you've still got to hunt around to look for the leak? I'll have to see how much places are charging but as the other 2 cars are losing coolant it might be worth buying one. Maybe gas test at the same time? What's that for, not heard of a gas test before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 you put an exhaust sniffer in the header tank , if the headgasket has failed there can be exhaust fumes in there there is also a chemical test that does the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Please don't let it be that...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Ah, a sniff test. I've read that needs to be done on a cold engine so would need to leave it with someone. Can it still be a head gasket even if the oil looks ok? Hopefully it's just a leak somewhere though but the behaviour is strange. I checked the level again earlier and it's not moved anymore since yesterday morning. I'm wondering if I should get a new rad cap just to try first. I can't see any signs of coolant where I cleaned the other day. The bumpers need a respray and there is rust around the rear windscreen that I need to get sorted too. So the repair/maintenance bills are starting to add up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Oil can go to water or water to oil. You normally get temperature problems on a run though. Cardboard under the engine for a couple of nights and kitchen roll rould the radiator cap on a drive to or from work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Also water can go into the cylinder.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 I went to Costco the other day and forgot to pick a box up! I'll have a hunt around the house for some. Good idea with the kitchen roll around the cap, I'll do that. I just had another feel around the matrix enclosure and it's all dry. But I guess if it's leaking in the box it should evaporate quickly and I'd smell in through the vents. The car doesn't have any issues warming up and the temperature gauge never moves from where it should be. Hopefully it's not a major issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted October 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 I topped the coolant up on Saturday and it's now back on the minimum mark within 6 days so that is not good! I'm going to find some cardboard to put under the car over the weekend as it's supposed to be dry and I've put some towel around the rad cap. As I said before the rad is hidden inside the bumper and there's no easy way of seeing it unless you remove it. I think I'll have to do that and check the whole system carefully, if I still can't find it I'll get it tested. I only have 2 litres of coolant left and it's going to get expensive keep topping it up. One thing I forgot about with this being an auto (same with the Accord too) is it has an ATF cooler. This is like a mini rad connected to the coolant system so that's something else to check, although I'm not sure where it is located - http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S6A01&block_02=BOP0800&block_03=15949 If the water pump seal has gone and that's leaking, would the coolant go into the engine or leak outside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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