Tony Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 No, open the matrix to hot run the car until the stat opens and then bleed the air from the valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 No, open the matrix to hot run the car until the stat opens and then bleed the air from the valves. Yep that too, I meant from when the engine is cold, that's the ideal time to bleed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 Don't forget to set the interior temperature to fully hot to ensure that the air is bled from the interior matrix. If your windscreen then gets misty, you can then narrow it down to the heater matrix. I personally would pressure test it first and not run the car with the cap off. If you're in a diy mood, get a spare radiator cap, still a hole in it and stick a tyre valve in it then use a foot pump/ air line to pressure it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Good idea with the spare cap but couldn't you risk over pressurising it compared to a proper kit? Running the engine without the cap isn't going to do any harm though, that's how you have to bleed it? The procedure for the Civic is to fill the rad, loosely put the cap on, run the engine up to temperature with the heat on high and then let it cool down for an hour/overnight, then top up. The car was only used for 2 miles yesterday, I checked it beforehand and it was still well above the maximum line, checked it this morning and it's an inch under the maximum line now! The car doesn't seem to be losing any coolant now, it just keeps going up and down like this, I've not topped it up for a week and a half. There must be something going on with the pressure inside the system so I'm going to get a new rad cap anyway to try, at least I can rule that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Just above the minimum this morning! After alot of searching this is the correct cap for the Civic - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Print-Radiator-Pressure-Cap-Genuine-OE-Quality-Replacement-Part-/191444422366 I've seen loads that say they're compatible but they're only 0.9 bar, whereas the original is 1.1 bar. I could get an unknown brand for about £5 but I think it's worth going for the Blueprint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Stick with OEM since your in a process of elimination mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Stick with OEM since your in a process of elimination mate. The cheapest genuine one is over £20 and £35+ from Honda themselves or do you mean the Blueprint is good enough and don't go for a generic one? If this doesn't work I'm taking the car somewhere to get it checked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 BP are a great make no denying that i'm just worried a fault could leave you chasing your tail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 It's not worth paying for a Honda one though, I might as well spend the money on getting it tested first. For £7 I don't mind buying one to try and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Agreed.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 I'd get it tested first then buy a Honda one if they tell you that's what's causing your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 I've ordered it anyway, it'll fit the Accord too. If it doesn't do anything I'll book it in somewhere for a test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Blueprint is just a generic one , get the correctly rated one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Blueprint is just a generic one , get the correctly rated one The blueprint is a 1.1 bar cap, all the rest I've seen are 0.9, which is why I didn't bother with those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Its needs to be the correct rating , im guessing .9 bar is 13 psi which seems standard for a lot of jap stuff , are you sure its 1.1 as standard and not just what someone has fitted in the past ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 It's the original cap and the Honda part number is for the 1.1/16psi cap. It's this one - http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-19045-PAA-A01-Radiator-Cap/dp/B00BFDFP60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 It's the original cap and the Honda part number is for the 1.1/16psi cap. It's this one - http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-19045-PAA-A01-Radiator-Cap/dp/B00BFDFP60 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-LAGREAT-RL1-CAP-COMP-RADIATOR-19045-PAA-A01-RADIATOR-CAP-/191547730122 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Mind you as I said before if its going down when its not used its not the rad cap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 It's the original cap and the Honda part number is for the 1.1/16psi cap. It's this one - http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-19045-PAA-A01-Radiator-Cap/dp/B00BFDFP60 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-LAGREAT-RL1-CAP-COMP-RADIATOR-19045-PAA-A01-RADIATOR-CAP-/191547730122 Yep seen that but when you add postage it's £21 and I've got to wait for it to come from Japan. Mind you as I said before if its going down when its not used its not the rad cap I'm not so sure now, it only did it the once and hasn't since. I've not topped it up for nearly 2 weeks now, the only issue ATM is the level rising and dropping everytime the car is used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Guess what, bloody cap don't fit! FFS! I even double checked on the blueprint website and it said it'll fit. Going to return it. The car hasn't moved since Tuesday night and I've just checked the level, it's not moved at all. I'll try bleeding the system over the weekend see if it makes a difference and book it in somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Well that's interesting. I just emailed the seller about returning and they asked for the car details. I just checked myself before replying. On the blueprint table under the part number I ordered the 1.6 petrol Civic is mentioned. I just clicked on it and on the next page it has an additional part number listed. It looks the same as the one fitted but it's for the diesel radiator!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Is a diesel rad different then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Yes it is and the pressure cap is on the expansion bottle not the rad. I've been working on the car this morning. Checked the level first and it's not budged in nearly a week now! Removed the cap and started the car, also had the heater on high and the blowers on full. There were alot of big bubbles to start with and then they became smaller. The top hose got hot quickly but it took 15 minutes for the bottom hose from the thermostat to get hot. Does that sound normal for an idling engine? The Haynes says to run the engine until the fan kicks in twice but it never did so after 20 minutes I turned the engine off. I've got another problem now, there is no heat out of the vents! The top matrix hose is hot but the bottom is cold. Could a bad airlock cause this or is it likely to be blocked? I've not got time today to flush it but will check the level in the morning and top up if needed then keep an eye on it. I assume I can use the car, could that help dislodge any further air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Does sound like an air lock but the water is getting out and the air getting it so its a symptom rather than a cause imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 What do you think I should do, try running it abit longer with the cap off and keep squeezing the hoses? I'm not sure how to dislodge an airlock in the matrix, never had issues with them before. As it's not been that cold the heating hasn't been used much so I'm not sure when it stopped. I could use the car for work this week, I don't mind not having any heat. I think I'll just try and book it in somewhere. Does it sound like the stat took a long time to open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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