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Rich's 2003 Honda Accord 2.4 Tourer Auto


Rich
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Pads is your only option now..... I assume you checking the piston when it's hot IE after a run?

 

I've not checked the piston yet, I will when I change the pads but I'll take it for a run first. Good job you said that!

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Often missed when the brakes are cold.

 

I'm hoping it's not the caliper although it's guaranteed for 2 years. I think I need to send it to them before getting a replacement, which is inconvenient as it means the car will be off the road!

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I doubt if it's that..... Get those OEM pads in there.......

 

I will be at the end of the week but if I've made sure the current pads are moving freely how else can they cause the smell?

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I've hit an issue fitting these new pads, I've bought genuine ones. The ones they're replacing are pattern and the friction material covers a slightly lesser area! This means the new pads are coming into contact with the rusty edges on the discs!

 

The discs are Honda and haven't reached their minimum thickness yet so I didn't want to replace them, plus they're expensive. I've filed and sanded some of the rust off by hand and it seems a little better but obviously still get a noise when spinning the wheel, where it's touching.

 

If I do a few miles on these will the edges (it's 2-3mm) just wear down and then it'll be fine? I also have the MOT in 2 weeks so don't know whether to refit the old ones and then change back.

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I'll start from the beginning of what I did yesterday!
 
I took the car out for a 20 minute drive to get the brakes hot, parked on the drive and jacked it up. By the time I had got the wheel off the smell had gone! I could find no sign of it on the disc, pads or caliper!  :blink: I started looking around the disc and at the bottom noticed the backing plate/guard had rusted at the bottom and part of it has come away. I filed it down and bent it back, which also stopped a rubbing noise I was getting, which I thought was the handbrake shoes! I've not driven the car yet but I assume rusty metal on rusty metal will make a weird smell? If it does go and comes back I'll have to get the dremel out and cut that section away.
 
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The rear ARB bushes needed changing so I did the drop links too and got some of the Meyle ones I used on the front, these are so much thicker than the standard ones! As usual with drop links I only got 1 nut undone, 2 partially and then I had to cut the bolt in half, the last 1 wouldn't budge at all so I cut down the bolt/nut to release the tension and then the socket undid it. Everything feels nice and tight now and hopefully cured my knocking noise!
 
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So hopefully I've found the source of the smell but I checked the pistons anyway and they pushed in and out very easily - no problems there. I didn't really need to clean anything up on the carrier as I've done it so many times before so just gave it a wipe over ready for the new pads. I filed the edges, put some lube on them and fitted - then the issue I posted above came to light!
 
I've fitted the new pads but not driven the car yet. I bought genuine pads cos the discs were genuine so thought it would be a nice pairing but I didn't anticipate that the friction material would be a different size!
 
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The new pads touch the rust ring on the outer edge by 5mm and the inner edge 2mm.
 
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Will it be ok to use these pads on the discs? When I spin the wheel I obviously get a grinding noise now but would that go within a few presses of the pedal? I did sand down the rust areas to get them flatter but I might need to take the dremel to them. If I use them will this pass the MOT in a couple of weeks if the pad is touching the rust?
 
I've kept the old ones so can swap them back over if I need to. The discs haven't reached the minimum thickness yet and have no lip so I'd prefer to keep them. New Honda ones are around £100-£130 and pattern about £40.
 
 

The lip will cut into the pads in no time but the area will probably become glazed so it will be a sand down at some point.

 

You posted just before me. As above there is no lip on the disc, they must have used Honda pads until the last change and those pads are only 2/3 worn. So I need to remove the discs and sand the rust flatter?

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Ok then I'll go for a drive when I get home and see what happens! I'm getting the MOT done in next Saturday I think or the one after, do you think the rust will be gone by then? I assume as long as they pass the brake test they can't fail just advise?

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I suppose the question I should be asking is would you have fitted new pads to a customers car if they didn't ask for new discs?

 

As long as I won't damage the new pads on the rust I'm happy to leave them and replace the discs later on if they do become pitted.

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I did think about having them skimmed but the cost would be more than replacement pattern discs so probably not worth it. Might even be more than genuine ones.

 

I took the car out this morning and the brakes were a little softer (until they bed in) but it felt fine. I went to the steepest hill I know and tried the handbrake, it held on the 8th click. Bearing in mind this hill is steep and has double yellows, you can't park on it. So it should be fine for normal hills and the MOT, hopefully. I don't really want to tighten the shoes any more in case they start binding.

 

When I got home the smell was there again but went in 2 minutes. I went to Watford straight after via the motorway and it wasn't there when I arrived so will keep an eye on it. I think I'll end up cutting that section of the guard out, I can't see it being anything else.

 

The rear felt nice and tight now and the knocking noise has gone so at least something got sorted!

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