Tony Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 WD40 a few days before and use a proper brake spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Brake spanner? I didn't even know they existed, I've just had a look - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bergen-Brake-Spanners-Wrench-8-24mm/dp/B00A0R61PG What's the difference between these and a normal spanner? I also need to buy a one man brake bleeding kit but can't decide whether to go with the Ezibleed or the bottles with one way valves in them like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bleed-O-Matic-Deluxe-One-Man-Brake-amp-Hydraulic-Systems-Bleeder-Kit-Made-By-OEM-/271611475177?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 I assume putting the hose on the new caliper first and then connecting that to the pipe is the best way to avoid getting too much air into the system? Would all four corners need bleeding as well? It might just be easier for me to get Joe to do them by the time I've paid out on tools, brake fluid and extra axle stands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 A brake spanner is 90% a ring spanner meaning the nut shouldn't round off...... You only need to bleed the side your replacing, also when fitting make sure there's no twist in the hose..... There's a white line on the hose as a guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Ok cool, learn something new everyday. From what I've just read some people don't get on with them and use a pipe wrench instead. I've ordered all the parts now to replace everything on both sides and they will be here on Monday. I just need to find and order some good spanners, the bleed kit and some fluid now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I stripped both brakes today and the slider pins on the binding side felt a little stiff again, even though they had only recently been cleaned and regreased. I added abit more grease to them so hopefully I won't get any issues going to work next week. Cleaned all the threads and soaked them in penetrating oil, which I'll do again the day before. 10mm brake spanner is ordered and the calipers are on their way so I just need some brake fluid and a bleeding kit now. These are the pads from the binding side These are the other side, I'm hoping to carry on using them, they look ok. The discs should be ok, they're Honda ones with 9mm thickness left, the minimum is 7.5mm I think. But I don't want to replace those cos it'll mean messing with the handbrake shoes, which I hate doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 File some of that paint off the pad contact points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 There's no paint on them, I did that when I first got the car and read about rear brakes binding. The pads are a good fit and slot in nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Move them side-to-side and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Bit late for that now I've bought replacement calipers and hoses and I'm fed up with constantly taking them apart. After 3 cleans it's not the pads at fault I'm sure of that. The shims and carrier has had a good scrub as well, still binds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 I bet it's just the hoses... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Probably but there was alot of muck on the piston, which can't be right. I'm keeping the car for as long as possible so it's worth replacing the calipers IMO, especially at £40 each. Honda want something like £500! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Got to work and the brake is hot and smoking abit again, it's definitely the hose or caliper. Going to work I have a big hill to get down so braking alot and there isn't as much traffic so I don't really stop, plus there is a short dual carriageway (1/4 mile) just before I get there. Going home I tend to drive slower cos of the traffic and obviously don't brake uphill so it's usually just warm when I get in. How long does it take for binding brakes to kill the discs and pads? I might have to whip the caliper off tonight and try to clean the piston abit more, it obviously did something last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Depends on how bad they bind..... No doubt you'll need to de-glaze the pads when you fit the new callipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 If I have to replace them then I will but I'm hoping to get abit more life out of them. What's the best way to deglaze, brake hard a few times or wire brush and meths? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Sandpaper until the pad turns a light gray colour.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Cheers, will do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Got home last night and the wheel was hot! Took the caliper off and inspected the piston, there was brown crap under the seal again so there is definitely dirt or corrosion behind the seal where I can't see. I pushed it in and out a few times but there's not much else I can apart from fit the new parts. I did notice the handbrake shoes were catching abit so backed them off a couple of clicks and it's just rubbing slightly now but with the wheel on you can spin it freely. Went for a 5 minute drive then checked the wheel, it was fine so went up the dual carriageway and back home. The wheel was very slightly warm but no where near as bad as it was. It was the same when I got to work earlier so fingers crossed it holds out until Thursday when I can fit the new calipers and hoses. These arrived yesterday but one set of the slider pins are too long so I've asked them to send me the correct ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Almost reads like there's water in the fluid and the brown colour is rust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Almost reads like there's water in the fluid and the brown colour is rust? There shouldn't be, Joe changed it last year when I had the exhaust fitted, unless the bottle had been open along time. If the piston seal has gone isn't is possible for water to get in causing rust and dirt to form, especially if there isn't much meat on the pads so they're pushed out a fair bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I'd put new pads on as well add the ones you have have been worn unevenly. .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Well yes the exposed piston is open to corrosion but no normally so fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I'd put new pads on as well add the ones you have have been worn unevenly. .. I think the angle of the photo and light makes them look uneven but when I checked them they looked ok, unless my eyes are deceiving me. I'll probably replace them though, they've been cooked well. I'll see how much Allparts are as I know ECP have the wrong part number in their system and they keep sending tourer owners saloon pads. Well yes the exposed piston is open to corrosion but no normally so fast. I don't think it's been that fast, I've had these brakes stripped and clean about 4 times in about 16 months now as they kept feeling hot but I was hoping it was just dirt around the pads. Obviously it's been getting worse and they've been binding even more so I guess over time more and more dirt has been getting in under the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Is the piston pitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I did notice one little spot but obviously I can't see the whole piston. I'll push it out abit further before I replace the caliper so I can have a good look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Well pushing the piston in and out a few times lasted a day, back to smoking brakes this morning but thankfully I only work 5 miles away. I'll be glad to get these new ones on tomorrow, I'm just hoping my brake spanner turns up today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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