NickT Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Tiger Seal will stick anything to anything (although it is black in colour) My Fav is good old clear silicone sealant from B&Q, although you would have to de-grease the area first. Don't use bathroom sealant, that's for edges of baths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4tnu Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 God damn leak is back...the car smells mouldy/damp and the screen wet in the mornings!! Looks like it's the same place so can anyone recommend a decent water proof silicone? It could be it was too damp when I sealed it last year but all that time I spent stripping the interior has been wasted. I will have to get the wet vac out and go over the carpet again. No point doing it now though will wait until it's warmer. Hi Essex Racer regarding you leak awhile ago I had a mondi and I had a stinker of a leak that was coming from in the engine bay where the pollen filter housing attached to the bulk head, also I know this might sound a bit obscure but years ago my wife had an maestro that was leaking threw the hole for Ariel cable which was on the roof, the water was getting in running down the inside of the right front window screen pillow and then worked its way under the carpets ( sorry I can’t be more technical in my answer just a thick truck driver) LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Tiger Seal will stick anything to anything (although it is black in colour)My Fav is good old clear silicone sealant from B&Q, although you would have to de-grease the area first. Don't use bathroom sealant, that's for edges of baths. I thought tiger seal was for bonding though, like bodykits. Would it actually act as a seal to stop water getting in? I used white silicone last time and it had a few days to dry but obviously weren't good enough. The clear silicone I've used on the rear lights before but once it's on the body it will never come off! Hi Essex Racer regarding you leak awhile ago I had a mondi and I had a stinker of a leak that was coming from in the engine bay where the pollen filter housing attached to the bulk head, also I know this might sound a bit obscure but years ago my wife had an maestro that was leaking threw the hole for Ariel cable which was on the roof, the water was getting in running down the inside of the right front window screen pillow and then worked its way under the carpets ( sorry I can’t be more technical in my answer just a thick truck driver) LOL Thanks for the ideas but I already know where it's coming from It's the ECU housing behind the PAS reservoir, which connects under the dash on the drivers side. Pollen filter is the passenger side, which is dry thank god! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4tnu Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Have you fixed your leak yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Have you fixed your leak yet? Not had the chance as I've been working. Going to buy some clear silcone this weekend and maybe do it next Thursday (my day off) or the weekend as it will need time to dry, forecast for rain tomorrow Now it's getting warmer the glass shouldn't get that much condensation compared to winter where it freezes!! I'm actually wondering if the cold weather could've killed the silcone I used last time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4tnu Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Have you fixed your leak yet? Not had the chance as I've been working. Going to buy some clear silcone this weekend and maybe do it next Thursday (my day off) or the weekend as it will need time to dry, forecast for rain tomorrow Now it's getting warmer the glass shouldn't get that much condensation compared to winter where it freezes!! I'm actually wondering if the cold weather could've killed the silcone I used last time I was just trying to think last time we had a leak I am sure I got a tube of black mastic type stuff really sticky but you could fill quite big gaps with it I think it was from Halfords and you used a sealant gun to apply it with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Have you fixed your leak yet? Not had the chance as I've been working. Going to buy some clear silcone this weekend and maybe do it next Thursday (my day off) or the weekend as it will need time to dry, forecast for rain tomorrow Now it's getting warmer the glass shouldn't get that much condensation compared to winter where it freezes!! I'm actually wondering if the cold weather could've killed the silcone I used last time I was just trying to think last time we had a leak I am sure I got a tube of black mastic type stuff really sticky but you could fill quite big gaps with it I think it was from Halfords and you used a sealant gun to apply it with. That's a good idea actually Have you seen the photos of where it's leaking further back in this thread - Link for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4tnu Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Have you fixed your leak yet? Not had the chance as I've been working. Going to buy some clear silcone this weekend and maybe do it next Thursday (my day off) or the weekend as it will need time to dry, forecast for rain tomorrow Now it's getting warmer the glass shouldn't get that much condensation compared to winter where it freezes!! I'm actually wondering if the cold weather could've killed the silcone I used last time I was just trying to think last time we had a leak I am sure I got a tube of black mastic type stuff really sticky but you could fill quite big gaps with it I think it was from Halfords and you used a sealant gun to apply it with. That's a good idea actually Have you seen the photos of where it's leaking further back in this thread - Link for you Yes I have seen that, how about you use a small piece of fibre glass but not with the resin and use that with that mastic from Halfords that way it will stay a bit flexible and not go hard and crack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Have you fixed your leak yet? Not had the chance as I've been working. Going to buy some clear silcone this weekend and maybe do it next Thursday (my day off) or the weekend as it will need time to dry, forecast for rain tomorrow Now it's getting warmer the glass shouldn't get that much condensation compared to winter where it freezes!! I'm actually wondering if the cold weather could've killed the silcone I used last time I was just trying to think last time we had a leak I am sure I got a tube of black mastic type stuff really sticky but you could fill quite big gaps with it I think it was from Halfords and you used a sealant gun to apply it with. That's a good idea actually Have you seen the photos of where it's leaking further back in this thread - Link for you Yes I have seen that, how about you use a small piece of fibre glass but not with the resin and use that with that mastic from Halfords that way it will stay a bit flexible and not go hard and crack? Problem is it's a really tight area to work in as you have the strut tower in the way. The mastic should be enough, I will give that a go... Is it this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4tnu Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Have you fixed your leak yet? Not had the chance as I've been working. Going to buy some clear silcone this weekend and maybe do it next Thursday (my day off) or the weekend as it will need time to dry, forecast for rain tomorrow Now it's getting warmer the glass shouldn't get that much condensation compared to winter where it freezes!! I'm actually wondering if the cold weather could've killed the silcone I used last time I was just trying to think last time we had a leak I am sure I got a tube of black mastic type stuff really sticky but you could fill quite big gaps with it I think it was from Halfords and you used a sealant gun to apply it with. That's a good idea actually Have you seen the photos of where it's leaking further back in this thread - Link for you Yes I have seen that, how about you use a small piece of fibre glass but not with the resin and use that with that mastic from Halfords that way it will stay a bit flexible and not go hard and crack? Problem is it's a really tight area to work in as you have the strut tower in the way. The mastic should be enough, I will give that a go... Is it this stuff? That might be ok but the stuff I used, you used a mastic gun to apply it and I got it because it bonded to metal and I am pretty sure had a very good heat resistance to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 I'll pop down to B&Q/Homebase and have a look then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2010 Got my new Delphi wishbones this morning...£33 a side from a motor factors in Leighton Buzzard compared to £80 a side from AllParts!! As Ford use these ones for their OEM arms they should be good quality...hoping to fit next weekend if my trolley jack can get the car high enough! Also if I can move the air con pipe out of the way I will be fitting my strut brace. I was going to nut and bolt it but also thinking of tapping the holes so I can thread the bolt into the strut tower as well. Would this be overkill as I'll need to get a tap and die set, unless you have one I can borrow Tony? Can anyone think of a way how I can measure the gap between the top (underneath) of the tower and the top of the camber kit as I don't want to buy bolts that are too long and catch on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4tnu Posted March 27, 2010 Report Share Posted March 27, 2010 Looks like you are in for a busy weekend then. How far are you going to go on the Mondeo is it just replace the old for new or are you intending to mod it up ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2010 Looks like you are in for a busy weekend then. :lmaosmiley: How far are you going to go on the Mondeo is it just replace the old for new or are you intending to mod it up ? Yep as long as we don't have the snow that's forecast! It's fairly modded at the moment but I'm not planning on doing anything else other than fit the brake upgrade, I want to replace the lexus lights with the smoked version and still looking for the ST bodykit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 New arms/wishbones fitted yesterday, the car feels alot tighter now even though the bushes on the other arms looked ok. I reckon they would've passed another MOT but I could feel the difference in handling straight away. I've had these fitted for 22 months and they cost me £30 delivered from ebay, so anyone who owns or has owned a MK1 or 2 mondeo will know they have lasted well for cheap ones. It amazes me when other mondeo owners who have hardly any bush left say the car still handles ok :nowink: I think their idea of a good handling car must be different to mine! I also fitted new bolts where they attach to the subframe but I forgot to get new pinch bolts, although they looked ok and I put some locktite on just to be sure. I noticed that both of my inner CV boots need changing as well though, 1 is split and the other side not far behind. So I'll be undoing everything again to replace those now!! :laughingsmiley: Think I will get the stretchy ones like I fitted to the outer joints as they seem more harder wearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 16, 2010 Report Share Posted April 16, 2010 How does she drive now the cambers have been reset? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 How does she drive now the cambers have been reset? Back from my holiday now and I've done 400 miles since the geometry was redone. At speed going over bumps/dips in the road the car isn't as nervous as it used to be, which is a good thing. I think Pete said it may try to pull left or follow the camber of the road, which is what it's doing. Similar to how you described driving the lotus back, the car follows every imperfection in the road and it can catch you out sometimes. The best place for me to try it is the drive to work tomorrow, I will know then if it has improved. I'm still not sure the Falken 452 are the right tyre for me as well, they seem to tramline more than the Toyos. Plus I don't rate them that much in the wet once they've started wearing down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Bit more feedback now that I've been driving on roads I know. Coming home from work there are 2 stretches of road that would make the car handle very badly, pulling me towards the kerb or tramlining to the point it felt dangerous. At the moment the car seems to be coping with these now, it's much better and been on the motorway a few times and it's no longer nervous over bumps/dips in the road. I do have an issue with it pulling to the left though, I have to hold the wheel very slightly to the right to keep it straight. I'll stick the report up when I can find it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 23, 2010 Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Might be the tyres making it pull? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Might be the tyres making it pull? Yeah it could be, I think Pete said that as well cos they're abit stuffed! Will need replacing soon enough anyway...just gotta decide what I'm going for as don't want the Falkens again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 23, 2010 Report Share Posted April 23, 2010 Might be the tyres making it pull? Yeah it could be, I think Pete said that as well cos they're abit stuffed! Will need replacing soon enough anyway...just gotta decide what I'm going for as don't want the Falkens again. Thing is for once the optimized camber/ castor positions worked, making me feel tyres are an issue now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Found the report and just realised the chassis has been set using the data for a MK3 not the MK2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 In truth the data overlap is irrelevant because the cars modified, i could use a 1964 Mini target data and it would make no difference. For the modified car all that matters is the destination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 In truth the data overlap is irrelevant because the cars modified, i could use a 1964 Mini target data and it would make no difference. For the modified car all that matters is the destination. Sweet I'd imagine the target data for the MK2 and 3 are similar anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIH Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Found the report and just realised the chassis has been set using the data for a MK3 not the MK2? uh whoops! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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