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Wozza's Honda Accord ICE Thread


djwozza
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So this is where we were last time....

image-26.jpg

 

Moving on

1) Marking out beauty board, router at the ready!!!!

1Markingoutbeautyboard.jpg

 

2) Router radius the window edges

2RouterEdges.jpg

 

3) Cut Out Window

3Cutoutwindow.jpg

 

4) Edges routered with a beautiful smooth radius. This just takes mere seconds to do perfectly with a router & the correct bit. 

4Edgesrouteredwithcurver.jpg

 

5) Edges routered with radius close up detail

5Edgesrouteredwithcurvecloseupdetail.jpg

 

6) Beauty board test fit

6Beautyboardtestfit.jpg

 

7) Epicentre Cut Out and router for cables

7EpicentreCutOutandrouterforcables.jpg

 

8) Priming the Box. MDF need sealing before painting as it will suck up paint like a sponge

8PrimertheBox.jpg

 

9) Paint the box window

9Painttheboxwindow.jpg

 

10) Test fit the Epicentre. Now you see why EPIC was written on the box. The Epicentre is a bass processor for those of you unfamilliar with it. It is used to introduce bass harmonics where there were none at the lowest frequencies ie mostly older music. It is very clever in the way it does it as it uses the existing bass signal as a template, then introduces bass harmonics replicating that original signal, but far lower than they were originally produced. Under normal conditions the Epicentre is on minimum, & only turned up when needed on particular tracks. 

10TestfittheEpicentre.jpg

 

11) Router the edges of the board to allow the carpet to fit flush

11Routertheedgesoftheboardtoallowthecarp

 

12) Router the edges of the board to allow the carpet to fit flush (detail)

12Routertheedgesoftheboardtoallowthecarp

 

13) Front side with radius completed on both windows

13Frontsidewithcurvesonthewindows.jpg

 

14) Trimming 1

14Trimming1.jpg

 

15) Trimming 2

15Trimming2.jpg

 

16) Trimming 3

16Trimming3.jpg

 

17) Trimming 4

17Trimming4.jpg

 

18) Trimming 5

18Trimming5.jpg

 

19) Trimming 6

19Trimming6.jpg

 

20) Test Fit

20TestFit.jpg

 

21) Fuse Panel Trimmed (fuse blocks were just placed in picture for effect here & not srewed in)

21FusePanelTrimmed.jpg

 

22) Fuse Panels open

22FusePanelsopen.jpg

 

23) Boot takibng shape. Note the same Unipart/Varta AGM Battery I used in the front. Being AGM means it is a faster recovering battery than a normal Lead Acid type, but it is leak proof & safe to fit inside the car.

23Boottakingshape.jpg

 

24) Fuse Blocks and AGM Type battery

24FuseBlocksandsecondbattery.jpg

 

25) Amp Board cut out and amps test fitted

25Amprackcutouttoshapeandampstestfitted.

 

26) Amp board with routered cut outs for the Power & RCA/Speaker cables

26Amprackwithrouteredcutoutsforthecables

 

27) Final test fit of Amp rack before covering

27FinaltestfitofAmprackbeforecovering.jp

 

We simply ran out of time & weather yesterday, hopefully the last two days of the install will be the last weekend of the month, just in time for a final system tune up before JAE......
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Rich tbh I'm not certain as yet, I will get the meter on stuff after final set up/tuning & see how well everything is working. Alternatively if there are issues (which I doubt with 2 batteries & decent condition alternator) there is an ICE guy I have come across who works at an engineering company that is interested in making some offset reducers when I sort him some measurements, so it's a possibility of going 0awg all the way in the future.

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I could have gone for a really showy instal, but wanted a more kinda factory look than my Lexus so it's subtle but still very nice. The rest of the install is quite stealthy with upgraded speakers behind the factory grills, & a shouty showy boot build wouldn't really go with it. I think I will be happy how it turns out in the end, must be finished by 5th Sept as am at JAE & the car simply MUST be finished!!

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Cheers Tony, the pressure is really on now though as my pal only has Sat/Sun next week off work before JAE.

 

Can we really in two days:

Completely finish the boot

Silent coat under the rear seat

Silent Coar all 4 doors thoroughly

Run speaker cable into each door

Make 4 Custom MDF Speaker Spacers

Install 1 set of coaxials in the rear doors

Install 1 set of components in the front doors & dash

Run control cables to the dash for the EPICENTRE & Subwoofer Amplifier

Install the Head Unit into the dash

Any tidying up plus...

A Full system set up session

 

Let's not forget this is all weather dependant too. I'm only 50% sure we can make it for JAE, and that's if the weather holds up.....

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Audio install will NOT be finished for JAE. Mightily gutted & peeed right off. However on a plus note the boot is 99% finished. I just need to order some Perspex tomoz & some custom decals to complete it. I will post up some pics later when I stop looking at the noose....

 

 

I'm still going to JAE tho :)

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Here is two full days work, 8am-9pm both days this weekend....

 

1 Amp Rack Final Test Fit
1AmpRackFinalTestFit.jpg
 
2 T-Nuts & Bolts
2T-NutsampBolts.jpg
 
3 T- Nuts
3T-Nuts.jpg
 
4 Subwoofer Box Mounting Brackets rebated into the  (upside down) Amp Rack
4SubwooferBoxMountingBracketsrebatedinto
 
5 Subwoofer Box Mounting Brackets
5SubwooferBoxMountingBrackets.jpg
 
6 Carpeted Amp Rack
6CarpetedAmpRack.jpg
 
7 Amps mounted in position 
7AmpsMounted.jpg
 
8 Wiring Up 
8WiringUp.jpg
 
9 RHS Speaker RCA's plus Speaker Cables
9RHSSpeakerRCAsplusSpeakerCables.jpg
 
10 Cable Glands fitted to ensure no leaks
10CableGanddsfittedtoensurenoleaks.jpg
 
11 Closed Cell Foam in Wheel Well to stop the spare from vibrating
11ClosedCellFoaminWheelWell.jpg
 
12 LHS Cable holes
12Cableholes.jpg
 
13 Factory Insulation going back in
13FactoryInsulationgoingbackin.jpg
 
14 More LHS Cable access
14Morecableaccess.jpg
 
15 LHS Spaghetti Junction
15SpaghettiJunction.jpg
 
16 A Little More Organised
16ALittleMoreOrganised.jpg
 
17 Bolting Battery Down
17BoltingBatteryDown.jpg
 
17A MDF Battery Clamp Machined Sanded & Carpeted. A T-Nut was installed on the other side of the battery, where a standard Battery clamp is fitted & bolted down into the MDF Battery Floor
17AMDFBatteryClampMachinedSandedampCarpe
 
18 Fuse Box  & Ground Block Cabling
18FuseBoxCabling.jpg
 
19 Covers On
19CoversOn.jpg
 
20 Box Bolted into position behind the rear seats
20BoxBoltedin.jpg
 
21 Sealing the Perspex Window
21SealingthePerspexWindow.jpg
 
 
22 Screwing in too early.... The Box is secured by 2 large brakets into a crossmember, the Amp Rack is bolted into the Sub Box via the captive T-Nuts, & we had forgotten to bolt it down before putting the window on. With the Subwoofer already in, there is no access except thru the Window Cavity, so off came the window and the Amp Rack was bolted in, then the window went back in..
22Screwingintooearly.jpg
 
23 Final Cable Installation
23FinalCableInstallation.jpg
 
24 Amp Rack Bolted Down plus Beauty Board screwed in
24AmpRackedBoltedDownplusBeautyBoard.jpg
 
25 Subwoofer Lit 
25SubwooferLit.jpg
 
26 Subwoofer Lit Close Up
26SubwooferLitCloseUp.jpg
 
27 Boot Install Arty Shot
27SubwooferLitArtyShot.jpg
 
28 Friggin Front Speakers :(
28FrigginFrontSpeakers.jpg
 
We were out of time for JAE, working under a floodlamp for the final picture there. It would have been great if it was finished... 
 
Problems arose due the boot taking much longer than expected, which goes along with pretty much every detail on this complete install. So much so in fact I want to rename this thread as "Mission Impossible"!! Once the time was ticking along yesterday it was "ok well lets ingore the rear doors sound deadening & rear door speakers for now" as that was the only way were going to get the Head Unit in & Front Door sound deadening & Front speakers installed. 
Once the Front Door Panels were removed it just went from bad to worse. I mean much worse. For starters the Door Speakers won't fit, the rear spiders on these expensive speakers will simply not fit into the current aperture as the Honda OE Speakers had a Neo Magnet which is tiny in comparison, which allowed for the Honda speaker frame to have a much much smaller spider. .
 
Honda Speaker rear view
56aa72af-52e5-4e45-bd4d-c1e442e5179f.jpg
 
JL Audio Spider & Magnet
C5Spider.jpeg
 
This will need cutting out (google pic)
7doorcutoutforwoofer.jpg
 
We need to make something a little bit like this (Google pic)
DoorPanelRear.jpg
 
 
 
I thought the Lexus was a pain, that car was easy compared to EVERY single thing on this car!! We have got to construct unique MDF spacers (no eBay 165mm MDF speaker spacer rings here) that will need loads of fettling to fit inside the door panels, the Honda Speaker is approx 150mm in size (a pretty unique fitment) with the plactic mount taking it out to about 155mm in total, but my woofers are an industry standard 165mm across, the area inside the door panel will be very tight and require a lot of messing around just to get the speaker inside, let alone the MDF Spacer. This kind of custom work takes ages & we simply ran out of it for the car to be finished in time for JAE.
 
The bad news doesn't stop there however. The rubber conduit carrying the cars electical gubbins into the front doors is not just a hollow sheath like it is on the Lexus. Honda ( in their infinte wisdom) have chosen to instal connector blocks at each end where it connects to the door frame & to the actual door itself. At first glance even drilling into these connector block & feeding my chunky speaker cables thru is a no go as there is no simply no space left available in the block. Looks like it's a front doors off job just to run the speaker cable!! 
 
I could short cut this by using the existing Honda wiring, but tbh I'm not keen on doing that. A set of components worth nigh on £400 driven by and amplifier (similar existing model) that retails at £500 with a signal from a Head Unit that costs nigh on £1,000 deserves to have HQ speaker cable all the way from Amplifier to crossover to woofer without any joins to cheap stuff along the route. If I can find an easier way of doing it then i will, but I might as well put some £50 components in if I was going to splice into the existing Honda wiring.
 
I have a few things to do in the mean time, I need to construct a cover for the battery and order some perspex for the front of the amp rack. I just need a few days away from the car to gather my thoughts and recover some enthusiasm before it gets a full on attack. It might have knocked me down for JAE, but anyone that knows me understands that I am never beaten, battle will recommence in a week or so, with hopefully 1-2 more full days until EVERYTHING is 100 completed. 
 
"Mission Impossible"? 
Nah mate, Mission nigh on Impossible!!
 
 
 
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The thought had crossed my mind. Getting meningitis and the associated medical issues (that still plague me now)

was never part of the plan. If I had bought an Audi A4 TDi it would probable have broken down by now, but at least

the install would have been finished!!

 

There are still a few minor finishing touches needed in the boot, but as of right now it is 100% wired in and functional.

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