Tony Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 Wow that's a lot of work to come but remembering your Lexus ICE i know it will be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 Amazing end result on that fascia, how it came in its original state is a bit of a farce compared to what you've now turned it into. Good luck on the rest of the build, sounds like there's still a fair bit to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 And Wozza said the home paint job was a bit lame, i wish i could do a job like that with a tin of spray!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 I'm thinking 2 full 12 hour days tbh should get it 99% done, that's obviously on the condition the car doesn't throw another spanner into the works or other unforeseen issues/complications..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 I can't wait to see the end results...... I think i could sell your "how to thread" online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 Ski Hatch Grill done. Firstly cut the aluminum mesh to shape A bit of colour so it doesn't look out of place But the Honda doesn't have a Ski Hatch i hear you say? Well you are correct, but it will have one of sorts, or should I say bass port in a similar way to the one in my old Lexus, but this black mesh grill will cover things more discretely when the armrest is down..... The rear 6x9's are removed so they are effectively bass ports, so once a ski hatch style aperture is cut into the armest back, there is pretty much no restriction on the subwoofer from flooding the cabin with big lows..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 You've done a good job there mate, you can't tell it's been modified at all. Your passengers are going to feel that bass if you're having the sub positioned there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 In his Lexus the base would make your hair move Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Ha ha I remember when you said that too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Wozza I used to be in COL ( reversed ) as I has 4 Lexii. Not sure if I ever saw your car did you go to the Cotswold meet or the Gaydon one? I remember of seeing and hearing from a distance a couple of superb installs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 I didn't mate, mostly JAE every year I was a member, & a few shows at Brands Hatch etc. there was one up near Nottingham at a pub, Plough & Leggit I think. It was a while back now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Still gotta cut the hole in the rear of the seat but should look pretty decent from the front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 It looks factory finish mate Your old install was awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 This won't be as "showy" this time in the boot as I want full spare wheel access on this build. I got caught out twice before on the Lexus where the tyre punctured so badly that Tyreweld wasn't even an option.... However the sound quality will deffo be a step up. I'm aiming high with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 22, 2014 Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 So we can see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Managed to do a bit more work on the install on Monday. Firstly there was "Upgrading the Big Three" OE car wiring is built down to a price, and is also built to a certain spec. Car manufacturers will build to a price point/standard, but if you imagine how much wiring they put into every car, even small savings of a few pence add up to millions of £££'s over time. Copper cable is expensive, the thicker the cable, the higher the cost per foot/metre. Cars are not designed to have aftermarket goodies added to them Take the earth straps in your engine bay, they do an important job if engine/gearbox to chassis & battery to chassis. If you have ever had earthing issues of one form of another, you will already know how important a solid earth is to the cars electrical system. Bad earths can lead to all sorts of malfunctions, one of the most common is radio interference, or rear light clusters going crazy. Over a period of time copper oxidises in contact with air causing it to corrode, also after many years of vibration wires can also fatigue. They may not totally break, but fatigue or corrosion can cause the performance of the cable to become severely compromised as time passes. This can cause loss in your electrical systems efficiency, the battery might not get as much charge as it should, the starter might not get as much current as it should so turns slower causing it to take longer to start, the spark plugs could get a weaker high voltage (more so in older cars but you get the idea).... The really important earths are Engine/Battery Engine/Chassis & Battery/Chassis. There are lots more but for simplicity sake we won't name every single one. By either replacing these earths, or adding additional earth cables in these distinct areas, the theory is you will help to bring your cars electrical earths back up to or even better than (more of this later) it was when it left the factory. When you install a kit like this an essential is a small wire brush to take off any corrosion back to bare metal, or if a supplementary earth, to take paint off back to bare metal. Obviously you don't do this where rust would result etc. In ICE thinking, "The Big Three" takes this a stage further than just upgrading your ground cables. Additionally upgrade or replace entirely...... 1) Battery Ground to Chassis 2) Battery Ground to Engine/Gearbox 3) Alternator to Battery Positive In ICE, especially at the performance/competition end, an efficient electrical system across the board is essential, but as a first stage the Big Three is normally a first step to gaining better performance/efficiency. BEFORE adding more batteries or capacitors or bigger rated alternators etc. so get the best out of what you have FIRST, before spending additional funds where it might not be otherwise necessary. So using as big a cable you can afford & that will fit (4awg is a decent starting point in ICE terms, rising to 0awg or bigger for big ICE), run supplementary cables in these vital areas to improve performance. The difference is quite marked. I did the big three on my Honda on Monday, 13.8 was across the battery at idle, it is now 14.11. Proof in my own eyes that the theory works in practice. Way back on my Lexus I did notice marginally better starting (& it wasn't a bad starter to begin with) and a smoother idle. I also got better Radio reception than previously. On the Honda the idle seems smoother too, but maybe that is my mind playing tricks on me. I hope what I have posted makes sense, I'm no expert/professional but have tried to explain the theory as best I can after years doing ICE as a hobby & all information is correct as I understand it. It was damn hard work continuing the install, as has everything else ICE related been with this car, but think we are turning a corner now. I forsee only one problem regarding getting additional wiring into each door, but I will cross that bridge when i come to it. Anyway here are the pics. 1 Remove Stock Battery & then the undertray to give better access for running the Alternator cable 2 Oawg and Braiding 3 Battery Terminal and Chassis Earth Upgrade 4 I'm not a pro but that will do 5 O gauge & Conduit for Alternator & under the car 6 Extra Alternator Lead to Battery. The 0awg ring terminal was slightly oversize to fit on the stock alternator, so had to have a little dremel work so it fitted snugly. 7 Alternator Lead in conduit 8 Insulated bracket spur to avoid chaffing of Power lead. This is at the side of the engine cover, and would otherwise chaffe the Power Cable over time. 9 Conduit Heatshrunk to Braiding 10 Positive Terminal 11 Negative terminal inc main chassis ground to bolt head on right 12 Positive & Negative Cables 13 Positive & Negative Cables Close up. They are routed down the back of the bulkhead into conduit, away from anything moving or very hot like the exhaust etc. The main fuse & all cabling are secured with cable ties. 14 Holes drilled for conduit entry into boot. Other places with existing grommets etc were investigated, but would hacve meant running the cables close to the RCA signal leads, so this was really the only alternative solution. 15 Painted to avoid corrosion 16 view from underneath 17 Very snug fit cables into boot 18 Routing cables under the car 19 Routing cables under the car As it was getting dark I took the pics under the car before the final tighten up, & all the ties had the lose ends clipped off. 20 0awg Ground Block & Fused Distribution Block (for the next stage of work next week) 21 0awg Fused Distribution Block Close Up What is going where you might ask? Bottom Right - Fused Input from Front Battery 2x100A fuses. Bottom Left - Input from Boot Battery Top Right - 40A Fused Output for 300/1 Amplifier Middle Right - 100A Fused Output for 1000/1 Amplifier The bottom row allows both batteries to join their power together before it is distributed between the 2 Amplifiers. This way the entire left side is live as well so power is in a big L shape, then the top and middle right carry the fused power out to the two Amplifiers. Also the bottom two fuses give protection from the second battery should the Powercable under the car get damaged and will not allow the cable to remain live under the car. The Cable is protected at the other end by the fuse in the engine bay. Next week there will be a big push with at least 2 more full days on the install, in a effort to ensure the car is finished well before JAE in September. Still to do? Well the list is long, but I am confident that we will have the car near completion by the end of next week, or at least in a position that it is all playing etc, with just some cosmetic touches to finish it of etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Excellent blog wozza ....... There's way more to a proper ICE install than i ever thought... Did you say you are going to upgrade the alternator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Hopefully running 2 uprated AGM type batteries and big cables "should" mean the standard alternator will cope. AGM Batteries recover far faster than normal Lead Acid ones, plus they are safe to put inside the boot. The extra reserves these provide should counter any tendancy for the lights to go dim when a bass notes hit like I see on many other cars, and with the faster recovery almost acting like an ICE capacitor smoothing out the voltage. This isn't built to compete in SPL (Sound Pressure Level) or any other type of competition, but if I was going for SPL I would be running more subwoofers to get a higher dB rating. The bass will be plenty for my car tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 That is one thick cable but I guess you need it - nice update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 From the bass i heard in your IS200 im surprised the paint stayed on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I remember Southend seafront years ago when we were down there every Saturday night. Cars with 4 x 12" or 2 x 15" subs, rear seats removed to make space and the bass was just crazy but the sound crap. Quality over quantity is what makes a good install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Oh and something i forgot to ask earlier. The sound deadening is that to stop noise escaping the car or to reflect the sound back in or another reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Sound Deadening: There are different types of the stuff, the Silent Coat is the silver foil backed stuff previously seen. That is made up of a foil layer, and a rubberised tar/bitumen formula. It deadens the panels by mass loading. Just imagine a vibrating massage cushion, when someone big and heavy sits on it, it vibrates much less and allows much less sound to escape. It kinda works in a similar way. The light panel on say a door skin or bootlid etc will transmit a fair bit of road noise into the cabin. There are low frequency intrusions as well through the suspension/wheels & tyres, not just tyre noise bouncing back off the road surface or passing cars. If you deaden the panel a lot of these unwanted dB get decreased quite dramatically with sound transmission being drastically reduced. It also strengthens the panel with the extra mass as it is very heavey & has strong adhesive to hold on to the panel. It is applied with a hard worden roller to stop any air pockets between the silent coat and the panel, as air pockets would transmit noise. The more layers you apply, the less the panel will vibrate, the less noise. It's not just panel dampening that cuts down intrusion though. You build up the Silent Coat in layers so the edges hopefully overlap and provide a real barrier to the transmission of unwanted noise into the cabin. Then furthermore you can use other materials to cut noise even further, but this is for a different purpose. The matted grey material you sometimes see under a car carpet or on the backside of a door trim panel etc absorbs higher frequency noise, but obvioulsy manufacturers only put enough in to reduce the noise to an acceptable level within the car purchase budget (same as with wiring etc). If you use bigger sheets of the stuff on the correct areas that will also help cut out noise. This technique is called Sound decoupling Obviously in my particular case of say a door the inside of the outer skin and the inner skin both get the mass loading treatment, so both outer walls already have an extra layer or 2 of silent coat, the matted underlay stuff works as an additional barrier between them cutting the noise still further. For this purpose I am using someing call CCF or Closed Cell Foam. If you imagine a dense foam structure with a smooth outside surface, but inside is like an Aero chocolate bar in cross section. Millions of pockets of air, but each bubble is sealed rather than like a foam sponge, where they are kinda interconnected. So you can compress it and it bounces back, but it doesn't allow sound to pass thru the air pockets. Sound hits this panel and causes vibration which is dissipated by heat, so any sound that has made it thru the Silent coat literally becomes "absorbed". Well that'ts the theory, the better quality of product and the more layers, the better the results, so long as the installer does a good thorough job. Because of the layers of silver foil, the car becomes more thermally insulated as well. The total effectiveness of the sound deadening depends on areas of coverage, number of layers applied, material quality, installer competence etc. A fully deadened car will be a lot different than someone who has only done the front doors for example. I hope that all makers sense Tony? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Awesome work as always, I bet this will sound amazing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Thanks mate, I'm sure you will get a demo at some point. So much hard work has gone into it now, but still only 70% there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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