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Wozza's Honda Accord ICE Thread


djwozza
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Gonna finish the box today, install the Subwoofer, Perspex Window, make "beauty boards" (panels covering up cables etc) & an MDF mount for the Audio Control Epicenter. Would be good if the carpet turns up, but as yet no sign. Trip round the Docs first for my daily, then a trip home to check for deliveries, then off to my pals back garden for another full day (weather permitting).

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Well the carpet didn't arrive, but the last pack of Silent Coat did arrive.... when I was out. It kinda sums up my day yesterday. Two steps forward & four back. It seems EVERY little job on this install has been a mare, either in getting things to fit, or having to make compromises I really don't want to.

 

I'm a bit down as I was hoping to get the car to a point where it is 95% done by this weekend, with just some cosmetic finishing off, but alas we have come up short. Everytime I guesstimate how long we have left, it seems I have to add two full days to it. So here is where we are after 3 full long days work this week...

 

The Box

I originally built this two years ago. It was designed to be installed on my Supercharged Lexus IS200 firing directly through the ski hatch. The complex folded port was so you could see the Subwoofer through the Acrylic window as per my previous install in that car. I spent a lot of time building that box, & it is ported & tuned to be twinned with the JL Audio 12W7 Subwoofer.

 

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Getting everything together for a final plan out of the components

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We were toying with the idea of using a larger lid extending backwards as an amp rack, but after a test fit jiggery pokery session the original lid will be used. Here it looks like the Hellraiser character Pinhead....

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Drilling out the Acrylic window screw holes

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Notice the yellow webbing straps for rear seat fold down have been extended with some black luggage straps I had lying around. This makes it much easier to release the rear seats not only when doing the build, but for after completion too. They are wrapped around the boot torsion bars so they are permanently accessible. They were joined with strong glue then the joint covered in heatshrink.

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Left template for beauty board

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Right template for beauty board

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Combined templates

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Roughly cut & test fitted

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The front of the box in approximate position. The Subwoofer needs a fair bit of space at the front for excursion, so we left approx 90-100mm between the box face, & the seat back.

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The window test fitted for spacing, 4 smaller MDF panels are for equal spacing for the beauty board.

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Chamfering & shaping the beauty board for a snug fit.

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Another test fit

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Amplifier test fit for spacing & cable planning. We ran out of MDF so using a smaller piece for the amp rack just to plan it out....

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Clamping things in place so we can plan out cable routing. You can only do this with the actual cables you are using, so you can see how well they can bend etc

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Here is where we discovered a big hitch. The Amplifiers being used are designed to use 4awg Power & Ground Cables. However, as 0awg has a better current carrying capacity with minimal losses over it's length compared to 4 gauge, I had planned to use 0 through the entire build, & use a 0 to 4awg Reducer terminal like this http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/installation-accessories/set-screw-terminals/sp/set-screw-gauge-reducer-0-to-4-gauge/

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The problem is the input terminals on the amplifier are just a bit too close for these to fit safely, & with the combined power of 2 AGM Batteries plus the Alternator, I want an air gap between them feeding into the amps rather than a thin piece of heatshrink. The choices are run smaller 4 gauge from the fuse block to the amps (not happy at all about that especially now the holes are drilled in the fuse board), run a compromise 2awg cable between the fuse block & the amps, or find some very specialised offset reducer terminals. Rob had an old bit of 2 gauge cable lying around & it did fit perfectly. To run the 0 gauge I will need something a little bit like this, that will allow the larger cables to be fitted.

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I'm hoping I can find a solution, and we can get back on track. I prob just need a few days to recharge after 3 full days on the install, with the current health issues I am pretty weak & tire really easily due to being laid up for some two & a half months. Just a bit cheesed off & want it finished, but I guess anyone who has undertaken a big project such as this, or engine rebuilds/swaps/major upgrades etc, hits a few brick walls along the way that can totally halt progress.

 

I wouldn't even be halfway to here if it wasn't for my pal Rob, not only for having a suitable place to do the install (my tiny road is no good & I have no off street parking), but for doing a fair bit to help me. He was the one climbing into the boot applying with the roller whilst I cut out the various shapes in the silent coat sheets as required, passing tools here & there etc. I would be looking at next Spring if it was down to just me in my current condition. A real team effort.

 

Still after a few days rest (not really as I'm back to work tonight again), fingers crossed I can find some custom offset cable reducers, or 2awg cable for the fuse box to amp run it is.

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The heat fins of the amplifiers are mostly under the (empty) 6x9 apertures on the back shelf Tony, there will be enough bass moving the air around back there flowing through where those speakers used to be. That's the plan anyway.

 

Rich it's deffo an option better than using 4awg, maybe I'm being a perfectionist or just a cable snob? Having spent out on the costlier 0awg all over the car, & on the fused distribution block & ground block, I would much rather use the heavier & thicker cable, even for the last 1-2m run. Either way I have a few days to figure it out as my pal is back at work on shifts, & ATM not sure on the next day he has off.

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Well a compromise has been made, after several chats with engineer ICE people, there are no offset terminals currently available. One guy wants detailed pics & measurements as they have been asked for before, but he can't make them for a couple of weeks due to lots on at work.

 

So I have had to concede in downsizing but Rob found an offcut of 2AWG that just fits the Amplifier holes perfectly (& I mean just), so the 2AWG cable is ordered & work recommences next Thursday.

 

Very close now, I can taste it, but PLEASE no more hold ups!!!

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You need a maximum of 1mm between the positive and negavite terminals.

 

100v DC wont even jump at that distance.. So it stands no chance at jumping at 12v.

 

Im an electronic engineer for a space company and deal with high voltage DC all the time. I have to deal with H&S aspects of things so are am well aware of possible arcing

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They would be heat shrunk as well, but solution sorted, 2AWG Cable on the way, it was the cable snob in me wanting the entire system 0AWG..... Losses will be absolutely tiny over the last 1.2m-1.5m between 0AWG & 2AWG OFC

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Yes but it would have been nice for 0AWG from Alternator, to Battery 1 to Battery 2 to Amps, and lets be honest HQ 0AWG OFC Cable does look better than 4AWG. It's all good thogh, the cable will be delivered tomorrow ready for Thursday's work.

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I understand Adam what you say about spec, it's just that the HQ OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) 0AWG was already purchased with enough to do the Big Three, & engine bay to boot (& back) plus ample to complete all boot wiring, so I will have a fair bit left to sell after the install. I can't wait to crack on with the install on Thursday. I still have a few extra tricks up my sleeve to finish the boot part of the install off visually, but need everything installed, sound checked, run in & tweaked before I can put the cherry on top.

 

Once the boot is 99% finished & trimmed, I still have under the rear seat to deaden (1 hour tops) then all four doors along with making MDF Speaker mounts rest of a full day) plus installing the Head Unit itself.

 

I'm hoping 1 complete day on Thursday, & 1 more full day after that & we should be finished...... I hope lol

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Yep well guess whose cable isn't arriving today?

 

The mong put it on a 3-5 working days service, even though he had told me it would be with me by Wednesday. How does that work when they don't count the collection day (Monday) so it still wouldn't have been here til Thursday at the very earliest, interlink only guarantee it will be here by 6pm on Monday. Time is running out with available days to finish before JAE. Stressed & p###ed off doesn't even begin to cover it.....

 

I have had to order 4AWG (not happy at all) but had no choice whatsoever at this late stage, at least that will turn up tomorrow for definite, however inconvenient.

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