djwozza Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 I managed to get a little bit of work done on the install yesterday. Happy just to get a little bit done after all the time off with health issues. The Double DIN facia has been nothing but troublesome, but those who might know me back from LOC days understand facia modding is something I can do fairly well. The Metra Facia supplied from the USA has small gaps at each side, and I just wasn't going to be happy with that. I hanted to test fit the Head Unit with the facia, then fit the lot into the dashboard to see excatly where we were before I decided exactly on a course of action... Honda Facia removed RCA's, remote leads etc all in place. This bracketry just gets in the way of the replacement facia so out it comes The Gap. I know it's fairly small, and when painted black will show even less, but that isn't the point. It should fit perfectly in the first place.. On top of that the actual head unit aperture needed some coaxing out to size as well Now it was decision time, Head Unit recessed into the Facia or with the Pioneer trim? Which do you prefer? No trim or trim piece? Bearing in mind I have now decided to go with plain black or the facia front, I think with the trim was the best option. There were problems however, as the Metra facia has two curves. One from top to bottom, the other horizontally which you can't really see until you take the whole thing out.... From the front you only know how bad it is fitting if someone point's it out, but I'm not having a dogs dinner ill fitting trim on my dash, especially with the top head unit pioneer currently make!! Patient work with a dremel (several test fits & more trimming) the ill fitting top now countours to match the facia. Almost half it's thickness is gone in the middle, with less removed at the edges The side required less trimming, but the facia isn't straight anywhere from top to nottom. Obviously becuase of how the Stereo fits & the shape of the dash, the bottom section will stick out, but when fitted this doesn't really notice at all, but I have considered bringing the curve at the base upwards to meet the trim panel. Undecided as yet how I will leave it. Looking a bit more like the real deal. Shame about the gap on the right which is about 4x bigger than the one on the left when everything is bolted securely in. In fact the one on the left is only about 1mm and when painted black and bolted in won't notice, but Mr Rightside needs attention. Time for some masking tape..... Clear plastic epoxy resin if the first thing to try, we shall see how it works out. Obviously it looks like crap now, but I'm hopeful it will close the gap and harden sufficiently to allow sanding and painting. Fingers crossed eh? Time to dry and harden. More updates in a few days as and when I get time, lots of hospital crap to contend with this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Nice progress Wozza and I agree the trim looks better Hope you're getting better as well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 I am slowly mate, but the next few weeks is vital in making a full recovery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Nice work, definitely looks better with the trim on. Can't believe it's needed so much work though, how on earth would a stereo be expected to fit in that as it was at the beginning? Glad you're on the mend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_r Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Personally i would remove as much of the surround at the top of the unit to make it almost flush then file and trim the rest to suit. That way it would look more 'factory' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 What a stunning blog..... I think the evolution for the fitting is brilliant. I learn something every time you post Given the scary and i mean scary condition you went through i'm delighted the health bubble has turned and your able to get on with life and indeed this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Adam The top is almost half it's original depth at the middle, I have to leave pretty much what's left due to the tags that clip onto the radio itself. To go any thinner there might make it too fragile, to recess the entire thing further back into the facia would be a massive ball ache of a job, if a simple facia was available to fit it that way then I would have been happy to go for it, but I will still be happy with what I am left with here, because if I am not happy I will keep modding it until I am..... Parthiban Totally agreed, to have to pad the facia width out & trim the internal aperture to allow a standard brand name Double DIN size isn't really plug n play, but I guess in the US the dash might be slightly different. I can certainly see why there are very few ICE Honda Accord (7th Gen) in the UK, and nearly all of those I have seen use a Single DIN head unit. The resin seems to have set and might well do the trick, notice the gap isn't uniform, it is even wider at the bottom, however this will be out of sight. The masking tape protected the dash and kinda acted as a mould for the resin & I will give it a bit more time to harden fully (just in case) before the Dremel comes out to tidy it up, and I will flat back the facia front ready for priming & painting. Tony Although the Meningitis is out of the way, the infection I was left with might still have very serious implications for my foot, will learn more tomorrow afternoon at the specialist, so fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 The resin looks like it's done well there, assuming it won't crack once it's in and been bashed about a bit over potholes and similar? Sorry to hear about potential issues with your foot, fingers crossed for you mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 It's a plastic repair epoxy, which it says can be easily shaped & sanded, so it should be fine. Once sanded a bit of plastic primer and a couple of coats of black and at least this part of the install should be done. Once it is in place it is securely bolted down so these shouldn't be any stress or pressure on that edge anyway. if not i have some hard black perspex sheet that can be bonded in it's place, but the only drawback there is all the sanding and shaping to follow the contour & gap as needed. The option is there if necessary, but I'm 90% sure this will be fine. Famous last words perhaps? "Germany have only scored one, we can still win this!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 10, 2014 Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 It's seems such a lot of hard and skilled work and that's why your install blog is so interesting and valuable as a walk through but can i ask a question?... How much do you think it would cost to have this done by a company? Since i've seen the condition of your foot i'm worried for you and hand on heart hope things workout for you today mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 Questions always welcome Tony. I would guess most shops doing bespoke installs would charge £30/£50 per hour, but the best way to do it would be a total job quote. Specify to the installer exactly what is needed, & any particular requirements etc & get a detailed quote for the installation including absolutely everything. Most companies will be slightly flexible as little issues always crop up even when an install, even with one pretty meticulously planned like mine. I originally planned for a 4mm bulk pack (24 sheets) & a 2mm bulk pack (41 sheets) of sound deadening (Silent Coat) costing £170, plus a 6 sheet pack of CCF (closed cell foam) isolator £20, but I have had to add another 2mm Bulk pack of Silent Coat (£80). That's ANOTHER 41 sheets of sound deadening. This is just due to the guy helping me being determined to do a really thorough job, where I might settle for 2 layers on pretty much every panel, he fills the tiny voids between skins/panels with individually cut pieces etc & this not only takes a lot longer but also takes up more of the Silent Coat. It has proven to be worth the extra cost/delay though. The roof is a prime example of the effectiveness of the Silent Coat & the car will really sound pretty extraordinary, but everything is now paid for except for some MDF for a new Subwoofer Box lid which will double as an amp rack, some woofer mounts for the doors, & what is known as "beauty board" to hide a lot of cables away in the boot. Getting well & finding times when we are both available to continue the install are the only real delays, but this weekend I will crack on with sanding the facia & giving it some paint. I'm now outside Kings College & just about to have tests galore. Fingers crossed I get some good news & can crack on as standing is a bit of an issue, the only time I have allowed myself to stand at all has been at work, the facia modding the other day was pretty much done sitting down, but I need to be more mobile to get the rest done.... I am hoping I will have the install completed before the end of the month, only time will tell. I could pay someone to finish it but that wouldn't make me happy at all, & I want the satisfaction of seeing it through myself along with my pal who can't wait to hear it. He calls me an SQ nancy (Sound Quality). He wants similar sound quality but huge SPL (Sound Pressure Level) & will be getting 150dB+!!! He has just taken his VW Sharan off the road to start his own install. It will be one of the most incredible installs in the UK & will take up to a year to complete. 24 x12" JBL Subwoofers powered by 18,000rms 16 x8" JBL woofers in the doors powered by 6000wrms 8x JBL bullet tweeters 6"powered by 600rms x2 and to power it.... 14 batteries in a bank plus 4 more in wheel well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarsdenDean Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Looking good fella! Just need some power upgrades after all this work to lug it around! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarsdenDean Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Looking good fella! Just need some power upgrades after all this work to lug it around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Ok a few pics of the facia work. 1) Next stage, trimmed off the tape 2) a rough dremel 3) trying to keep a straight edge 4) The only way I know it is flat is when the paint is off & at the same level as the plastic epoxy resin.... 5) Pretty damn happy with that visually, but it isn't perfect to the touch so........ a skim of fine grade P38. It might be overkill to some, but I want it looking as good as it can...... It just needs to dry, a quick sand, plastic primer, a quick sand, then a couple of top coats with a sand in between each one.... ETA next day or so..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Looking good mate, you have more patience than me. What paint are you using on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 the clear stuff is an epoxy plastic bond, i used the dash as a guide with masking tape until it became like a stiff gel, then have left it a few days to harden. it has worked a treat. It looks visuually perfect, but you can still feel tiny imperfections hence the skim of filler. Fine P38 filler skimmed over the top should do the trick and some very gentle sanding should give me a finish as smooth as the original facia ready for painting.... then simple Hellfrauds Plastic Primer & a few coats of Satin Black That's the idea anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 99% of the filler applied is removed with Wet & Dry Plastic Primer on, now have to wait 24 hours before I can start again with the Top Coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Looking good there Mr Wozza 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 I had to give it a dusting of black, now lots & lots of little coats 30mins apart.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Bloody hell i can't believe the transformation. In the initial pictures i thought this is going to be a bit messy, how wrong was i. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Lovely work mate, but having seen your previous install I wasn't expecting any less Knowing your eye for perfection, what's the bobble at the bottom right of the fascia for? Or is that just the picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 @Tony it's coming along nicely, but then my Lexus facia mod has been copied all over the place including the US & Australia. It's just a little DIY skills & some patience. I do have to use considerable control between being a perfectionist, and on the other hand saying "ah feck it, that will do". @Parthiban there was a tiny bit of epoxy bottom right I hadn't bothered to take off as it will be totally out of sight, but it bothered me last night so is now gone. If you mean the thing with the hole, all the bottom parts are locating fitments to bolt in. Am reinforcing each one behind with epoxy bonded metal for strength, along with the side cage. Not showing everything online though just for security reasons, but with factory deadlocks & Thatcham Cat 1 alarm, it would be difficult to get out without attracting massive attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 I was lightly using 600 grit but it took too much off when flatting back so 800 grit upwards once the next coat has dried.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted July 14, 2014 Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 @Parthiban there was a tiny bit of epoxy bottom right I hadn't bothered to take off as it will be totally out of sight, but it bothered me last night so is now gone. Cool, yep that's exactly the bit I was talking about 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwozza Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 Before shot After shot It's never going to be perfect out of a spray can at home, but it's a pretty decent job in the end There is now a delay as my pal is busy on overtime & i have docs/hospital appointments etc, but the last few stages are approaching. Here is a list of what is left still to do when we can get time when we are both available... 1) Install 0awg Big 3 & run 0awg Power Cables from engine to boot via conduit under the car 2) install 2 new AGM type batteries (one in the boot) 3) sound deaden the remaining boot and under rear seat 4) sound deaden the doors & run all remaining control cables (Bluetooth Mic, Epicentre Controller, JL Amp Cable, GPS receiver 5) install MDF speaker spacers in each door & run speaker cables 6) install coaxial rear door speakers behind factory grills 7) install front components, woofers in doors & tweeters into stock locations in the dash 8) fit subwoofer to custom MDF box & install LED's & Perspex 9) fit Head Unit & modified facia to the dash 10) sound check & adjustment Will do this myself possibly tomorrow or Wednesday 1) Cut ski hatch grill mesh & paint I have also ordered some small single LED's I will install discretely for courtesy effect lighting for the front door bins & the door handles like some later cars. They will be installed so you only see the effect of the light, not the actual light source itself. These will come on when the door is opened or the engine is running like the door window/central locking switch illumination etc. Also I have some front footwell courtesy lights for entry and exit. These are minor titbits that will just add an air of quality to the install & are in keeping with a similar set up I installed on my IS200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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