Rich Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I need to get myself something so I can bleed the brakes when I'm by myself. I've narrow it down to these and would like to know if anyone has used them? I have ruled out the Eezibleed cos I would need to buy the extra cap for it bringing the total cost to £40, plus I think messing with the spare wheel will annoy me. The cheapest option is something like the Visibleed, using the traditional method of pumping the brake pedal but the one way valve will stop air getting back into the line. The only thing with this is I've read that bleeding brakes repeatedly on older cars using the pedal can damage the seals? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sakura-NV16-SAKURA-Visibleed-Brake/dp/B004EK0KFM The next option is the Mityvac, which is connected to the bleed nipples, creates a vacuum and drawes the fluid out, eliminating the need to pump the pedal. It can also be used to syphon out old fluid and do other vacuum checks on the car from what I have read. I think this is the one I'm going to get. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mityvac-MV8020-Automotive-Test-Tune-up-Brake-Bleeding-Kit-Silverline-Bleeder-NEW-/191417934744?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c9165e398 This seems like a good video showing how to use it. I was intrigued about using plumbers tape around the nipple to stop any leaks from around it, has anyone else done this? It also looks like once they had finished they left the tape on. You can also use grease around the nipple from reading the instructions on their website. The last option seems to be a copy of the Mityvac so works the same way but some of the reviews question the quality of the products. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bleeder-Tester-Vacuum-Motorbike-Bleeding/dp/B00HHXRBWI/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426367122&sr=1-3&keywords=vacuum+brake+bleeder There is also a Sealey version, which looks to be the same as the half price ones but the same cost as the Mityvac, which just looks better made. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-Vacuum-Tester-Bleeding-Complete/dp/B000RO612A/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426367122&sr=1-2&keywords=vacuum+brake+bleeder Any thoughts on these? I'm hoping to order one tomorrow as I need it here for Thursday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I've used a version of the first one in the past and on your own it's not that easy. You have to support a jar or something to put the pipe in and keep getting in and out the car to top the fluid up and you are never sure you have got all the air out as you are not watching it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I thought that might be the case with the one way valves, I guess on something like a motorbike where everything is in front of you it's ok but not so great on a car. I think I'll be going for a vacuum type bleeder where you can keep an eye on the bubbles and close the nipple once they've all gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 I have a mityvac and used the one way valves, I also have one that uses compressed air, the only way imo to do it on your own is with an easy bleed kit . The cap thing is an issue I've had in the past needing to buy a used one on eBay and drilling it The problem with the mityvac is air gets drawn in the bleed nipple threads, they are good for bikes where the bore of the hoses is narrow and air gets trapped in the master cylinders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 How do you lock the nipple with the brake pedal depressed at the end of bleeding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 You don't depress the pedal, that's the whole point of the kit. It creates a vacuum that pulls the fluid through, once the air has been removed you lock the nipple. I have a mityvac and used the one way valves, I also have one that uses compressed air, the only way imo to do it on your own is with an easy bleed kit . The cap thing is an issue I've had in the past needing to buy a used one on eBay and drilling it The problem with the mityvac is air gets drawn in the bleed nipple threads, they are good for bikes where the bore of the hoses is narrow and air gets trapped in the master cylinders My cap just clips or twists on and going by what other Accord owners have said you need the additional cap but even then getting it to pressurise can be difficult. The air from the nipple threads is explained in the manual and they claim they don't affect the bleeding procedure. To stop them wrap plumbing tape around the threads, not sure I'd want to use grease. The kit provides a simple, clean, and quick method for bleeding the fluid lines in the automotive brake system. The creation of a vacuum in the reservoir jar causes fluid to be drawn into the reservoir jar. It should be noted that a tiny stream of bubbles may be noticed in the hose after all of the air is bled from the lines. This is caused by air seeping around the threads of the loosened bleeder fitting and being drawn back through the fitting by the suction of the pump. Once the air is removed from within the system, these tiny bubbles will in no way jeopardize the bleeding operation, since they are present only at the fitting and do not enter the system. If you wish, you can put grease or Teflon tape around the threads of the fitting to eliminate most of the bubbles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 If you are sucking air you can't suck fluid They are useful to fill an empty hose but I always finish off the old fashioned way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 But according to mityvac the air isn't coming from within the brake lines just around the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 I've used the gunson eezi bleed for years and is a brilliant tool. Just make sure the supply air is no more than 15psi and that the main body reservoir cap is only screwed on slight hand tight, not f tight. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted March 15, 2015 Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 But according to mityvac the air isn't coming from within the brake lines just around the threads. It's whole purpose is to suck the fluid down the pipe , if it's drawing air , it can't draw fluid I get my son to help , he doesn't mind pushing the pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 From how I read it the fluid has already been drawn out of the line and the small bubbles from the nipple thread come after. A manufacturer can't claim it doesn't affect the bleeding procedure if it does, that's false advertising. What's the prefered method for 2 people doing it, press the brake pedal several times then hold it down once every time after, undo the nipple and tighten once the fluid stops. Brake pedal up, down again and repeat until all bubbles have gone? I've read some people pump the pedal a few times, every time before holding it down rather than just the once. Thinking about it why couldn't you just use something to hold the brake pedal down if you're on your own. It'll take longer but it's not impossible? I'll get the mityvac kit and see how I get on, if I have to pump the pedal I can use the tubing that comes with it. It has an ID of 6.4mm, would this fit over the nipple without using the adapter or should I get some smaller aquarium tubing like 4-5mm? I assume they vary in size on different calipers, I've never paid attention to the size before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Thinking again about the Mityvac the tube fits onto the nipple the same way it does when using the 2 man method, the only difference is you're pulling the fluid and not pushing. So surely you would get air bubbles around the nipples with both methods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 I think this time I'm going for the 2 man method but would the Visibleed help if I get one as I'm thinking it could help from accidentally letting air back in the system if the brake pedal was released too early? They're just over £3 on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_r Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Dont bother. Just bleed until no bubbles then lock the bleed nipple whilst they are still depressing the pedal. Sure fire way for bo air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 I've used the gunson eezi bleed for years and is a brilliant tool. Just make sure the supply air is no more than 15psi and that the main body reservoir cap is only screwed on slight hand tight, not f tight. . Once you set this up, it takes longer to get the wheels off than it does to bleed the system...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Dont bother. Just bleed until no bubbles then lock the bleed nipple whilst they are still depressing the pedal. Sure fire way for bo air For less than a pint in the pub I bought one just to try, if it's crap I'll bin it! I've used the gunson eezi bleed for years and is a brilliant tool. Just make sure the supply air is no more than 15psi and that the main body reservoir cap is only screwed on slight hand tight, not f tight. . Once you set this up, it takes longer to get the wheels off than it does to bleed the system...! These do sound good, although there are plenty of negative reviews as well but I don't want to pay £40 for something that I can only use for bleeding brakes. With the Mityvac it has other uses as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 It's your choice at the end of the day. My time is limited so I chose accordingly to get the job done once. There's nothing I find more frustrating is doing a job twice. I personally take reviews with a punch of salt as there are lots of idiots out the don't even R T F M most of the time. You can tell with the way they write "innit". .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Yes I agree some reviews shouldn't be counted, especially those who give it 5 stars but haven't even used it and just base that opinion on how it looks. Then you get those who give a 1 star review cos the supplier sent it late so it's not even about the product itself. I'll look out for a used Eezibleed and maybe give it a go if I find one but this time I'll have to use the 2 man method with some help from a 2 way valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 On the subject of brakes can you mix different brands of dot 4 fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyelcomb Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Eezibleed does have other disadvantages. As previously mentioned, you don't always get a cap that fits your master cylinder and that's a real pain. If you do get a cap (and a seal that fits too, remember) you have to be darn sure you are getting a really good seal. Otherwise it just keeps on pumping brake fluid and it doesn't care if it's p**sing all over the m/cyl or engine bay. Can get VERY messy. Don't ask how I know this... I've also found that the air side pipe doesn't always easily reach down to a fitted wheel / tyre so you might find having to balance a whole wheel in the engine bay along with the rest of the containers and piping. If all is otherwise well, it does bleed the brakes nicely and all you do is crack the bleed nipple open and then close it once the bubbles have stopped. But you'll then find another issue - it's kept the brake m/cyl topped up ok - right to the very top. And there's probably more fluid in the pipe to the cap. You may find that you get some spillage when you remove the cap - and MAKE SURE YOU HAVE DISCONNECTED THE AIR SIDE!! So you need to find a way of emptying a bit out to get it down to the max line. If you do it by cracking a nipple and pumping the brake a couple of times you are almost back to doing the job the "old skool" way. Using a turkey baster to suck up the excess from the m/cyl does work extremely well, but if you let the missus know you will subsequently suffer a flea or two in your ear (or worse). Again, don't ask how I know this... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 That's pretty much all the negative points I have read about the Eezibleed - it does sound like when it goes wrong it makes a good old mess! I suppose the only easy quick way to do it on your own is to use a specialised pump that cost hundreds. Yes Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Having abit of trouble bleeding them. Tried some tubing and got the missus to press the pedal and apart from a couple of very tiny pinhead sized bubbles it was just fluid in the tube. I only had to turn the nipple 1/4 of the way, any more and it was seeping out from the threads. I started the car up and the pedal now felt soft. She went out so I tried the visibleed which seemed to work ok apart from the plastic tab snapping. Again just a few very tiny bubbles in the tube. Moving the car on the drive the pedal is sinking very slightly when you stop. Could it be I need to start with the fronts? Edit - Just been around the block braking soft and hard but not emergency. They do stop ok, it just feels like the pedal travels slightly more than it used to. The brakes have always been soft on this car though but I'll go to work in the morning and try another bleed over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liner33 Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Pedal may well feel sponger if the Pistons are moving better Try it in the morning , before you start it push the brake pedal if it sinks to the floor there is air Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 I did wonder about that, it's not like I've just replaced one thing but both calipers, hoses and slider pins so it should all be moving nicely now. Before I started I put clingfilm over the reservoir. Clamped the old hose to remove the banjo bolt, then had the new hose on the new caliper ready to swap over. The hose was off the pipe no longer than 30 seconds and nothing came out, maybe a drip that was it. I don't think the fronts should be affected by that? The missus didn't press the pedal all the way down when we did it that way to start. Having said that you can't press it far anyway, it's really firm with the engine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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