Rich Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 The Civic front brakes could really do with being changed, I noticed yesterday one pad has worn slightly more than the other so the calipers need a good clean as well (what is it with Jap brakes!). I fitted them (discs and pads) 2 years ago and they've done approx 16k miles. Since I've started working on my own cars I have always fitted new discs everytime and these ones have abit of a lip on them. I think that might cause issues with vibrations when braking, plus the discs wear to the shape of the current pads. New discs and pads for the Civic is £40 so I will most likely change them all. I'm just wondering what others do when it's time to change them and do your opinions change on whether it's for the front or rear brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_r Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 I change pads twice to every one pair of discs...habbit and discs should last ages more than pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 I change my cars before the brakes need doing Used to change brakes pads and shoes on my older cars, only changed discs when they needed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 So far it sounds like I'm the minority! What about the lip on the disc, do you grind it down so it's flat again? I think I'll replace the pads then and see what happens but I've always thought it would cause brake judder. I need to buy some digital vernier's to measure the thickness, been meaning to get some for ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_r Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 The lip is there as the pads do not reach the full outer diamater of the disc. This allows a quick gauge of how worn the disc is.. Normally if mine have huge lips i.e 2mm or 3mm then i change them. I have done almost 70k miles on my current disks and pads and i only changed my rear pads as i hit the wear indicator. Discs will be fine for another set of pads... Front pads are probably half worn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 IF THERE ARE NO EXISTING PROBLEMS WITH BRAKE JUDDER OR UNEVEN PAD WEAR AND NO DEEP SCORING ON THE DISC TO PAD SURFACE I measure the thickness of the disc (with calipers) to see if it's worm to the tolerance limit. If it's within tolerance I just use new quality oem pads. Regardless if I still use the original discs or put new (quality not 'low cost countrt' made) ones on, I bolt the disc down issuing the original wheel bolts and spacer nuts and test for disc thickness variation and runout with a dial gauge indicator. If the pads don't move freely in the carrier, I clean and check the flames with a small file and I've even filled the paint of the pad to make sure it moves felt to prevent it sticking (with brake / copper grease) This may excessive to some but I've always done this and I always have a"do it right first time" viewpoint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 I would say the lip is 1-2mm so I'll just order some pads then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 IF THERE ARE NO EXISTING PROBLEMS WITH BRAKE JUDDER OR UNEVEN PAD WEAR AND NO DEEP SCORING ON THE DISC TO PAD SURFACE I measure the thickness of the disc (with calipers) to see if it's worm to the tolerance limit. If it's within tolerance I just use new quality oem pads. Regardless if I still use the original discs or put new (quality not 'low cost countrt' made) ones on, I bolt the disc down issuing the original wheel bolts and spacer nuts and test for disc thickness variation and runout with a dial gauge indicator. If the pads don't move freely in the carrier, I clean and check the flames with a small file and I've even filled the paint of the pad to make sure it moves felt to prevent it sticking (with brake / copper grease) This may excessive to some but I've always done this and I always have a"do it right first time" viewpoint Since having Jap cars I've done this with the calipers (as well as changing 4 of them) and pads as well now, cleaning them and filing paint off the edges. With all my Fords I just used to fit and forget until the next time, for some reason Japs don't like that approach! There have been no issues with brake judder so I'll just get the pads this time and save £25 Just checked my emails and it was 3 years ago I fitted them so done 24k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickT Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 I do apologise about the poor spelling in my post. My stupid auto correct replacing random words or my screen protector not working as it should (zag). I tried to edit the post to correct this, but then I lost the connection to the mobile network Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Pads & discs every time. The wear limit on VW discs is 2mm or 3mm depending on front or rear (as I recall, can't say which is which off top of my head), and for the money a set of discs costs it's negligible. After all, a set of brakes lasts 50k miles easy for me, so not a lot of reason to try pinching a few pennies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 If the disc's are above minimum thickness then i would just do pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Just found the specs for the brake discs I fitted and the maximum thickness is 21mm, the minimum in the Haynes manual is 19mm, that's not much difference. I'll have to measure them first and see how thick they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Yeah, there's not a lot of meat to come off a disc before it's below tolerance mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Well I've just come back from WIM and Joe said they're fine to fit another set of pads to. Yes it's best practise to change the discs everytime but if they're above the minimum thickness then you don't need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMARTLY Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Two mm is quite deep though if it was a groove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Yes but the pads won't hit the lip hence the reason it's there in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parthiban Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Pads & discs every time. The wear limit on VW discs is 2mm or 3mm depending on front or rear (as I recall, can't say which is which off top of my head), and for the money a set of discs costs it's negligible. After all, a set of brakes lasts 50k miles easy for me, so not a lot of reason to try pinching a few pennies. Do the pads last you 50k as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Pads & discs every time. The wear limit on VW discs is 2mm or 3mm depending on front or rear (as I recall, can't say which is which off top of my head), and for the money a set of discs costs it's negligible. After all, a set of brakes lasts 50k miles easy for me, so not a lot of reason to try pinching a few pennies. Do the pads last you 50k as well? Yep. Steady away most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 After changing the pads yesterday I'm glad I didn't get new discs. The NSF had a slight lip on the outside of the disc but the inside barely had anything and the OSF disc barely had any lip. I'll see how they go but on a quick test drive there were no problems with brake judder so I think I will only change the discs when they need doing now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 By the sounds of it, it will be next time the pads need changing and anyway in the event the discs do go under minimum thickness the worst that can happen is they warp.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 So brake judder could be a sign of the discs need replacing? Any other symptoms that could indicate the discs have reached their minimum thickness? I'll definitely buy some digital callipers though and check them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 If they are vented when their to thin they tend to get hot-spots ( blued ) on the veins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 On the veins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 The internal fins in between the vents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Gotcha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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