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Try out-out front, in rear?

 

The Evo10 chassis similarity to the 9 is common place.... most manufacturers use an existing successful chassis position to overlap on a newer version, just a few tweaks here and there is all that's needed.

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Toe-out rear on 4WD and RWD helped out a lot, especially on an FD RX7. Finally getting the cars to behave how you'd expected a racer to behave.

Not how I was expecting toe-out to impact though ? I would have thought it would make the rear more wayward ?

 

IIRC the NSX didn't react well though.

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yes but I always figured that to be within the realms of toe-in ? Or does that depend on the specifics of a given vehicle ?

it's not so much oversteer that's the problem as the back tyres loosing grip due to high engine output and slightly poor throttle control by the "driver" lol

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well spotted.... Historically toe in would be more progressive without "snap" oversteer, but for the track and an educated driver power oversteer with toe-out is more desirable.

 

Even in the game the reason the car seems uncontrollable is your Hz is below the cars control parameters, fundamentally it's the skill to control the car that's missing. We can tune the chassis but we cannot tune the human!

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Nah, tuned GTR/Supra/Evo etc just don't make the speed of the Exotics. I think I'll go back to my fast-road, mountain pass roots and trying to get the absolute best time from a more "reasonable" car. That was fun and informative.

 

Had the easiest Camber adjustment I've ever seen today btw. Honda bus (FRV ?), running -15ish N/S and +16 O/S on the front. Hunter reckons "minimal adjustment" can be had from the Mac Strut-to-Hub link. So I crack 'em of, looking/hoping for -20 minutes and the whole-lot naturally moves to -10 minutes, varified by an second castor sweep! Result, and didn't even need an axle lift.

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Meh had another case today of trying to adjust camber away from negative by using the slotted section at the bottom of the strut/top of the hub and found no gains. It was all toward negative.

 

Can we go through roll over camber wear ? And why for some cars a given geo figure wears tyres but on another (hyperthetical) example of the same car it doesn't ? Such as when it's adviseable to more away from OEM ?

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Meh had another case today of trying to adjust camber away from negative by using the slotted section at the bottom of the strut/top of the hub and found no gains. It was all toward negative.

 

Can we go through roll over camber wear ? And why for some cars a given geo figure wears tyres but on another (hyperthetical) example of the same car it doesn't ? Such as when it's adviseable to more away from OEM ?

 

I'll have to get some screen shots tomorrow to help the explanation.

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No.... considering the toe positions were already violated at "DA" then this is not a consideration.... Look at the cross disparities lock on lock?

 

Additional math is the initial camber/ castor/ toe error but this shouldn't be end of days.

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But castor specifically doesn't cause wear does it ?

 

No but it's responsible for so much dynamics it's a major player. It's for this reason i say to staff/ trainees or whoever, the Geom report doesn't mean a thing without that swing :(

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that rhymes.....anyway, so it's shallow camber that's likely to cause problems ? I'd always figured too deep a castor in the past, posabily showing the tyre too much camber on turn but clearly that isn't the case.

 

I imagine it plays havoc with Mercedes huh ? Last one I looked at (an mid 90s E Coupe) had 10 degrees @ DA. I really need to see one on lock as I bet the figures are huge.

That Merc was toe-only rear but fully adjustable front, incidentally. :(

 

edit: seems a bit rubbish the DSP600 has no facility to show SR placement/migration.

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