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Top of the hill in detailing thickness but a question


Tony
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It's used to remove contaminants when used with a quick detailer (QD) that are stuck on the paint...things like tar, sap, fallout. The paint will be super smooth afterwards :huh:

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What the guys have said Tony is absolutely correct. The benefits of claying is to remove any contaminants stuck to the surface of the paintwork. You may not even be able to see these but you will be able to feel them. Simply run your knuckle over the paintwork, it should feel silky smooth, like glass. Washing alone will not remove these contaminants. You can use various grades of clay from mild to aggressive depending on the type of paint you are working on and also the severity of what needs removing. You need to make sure you do not use clay that is too aggressive or it will marr the finish and require polishing to refine.

 

After claying has been performed it is always essential that a wax or sealant is applied as a minimum. Without this the surface is completely unprotected having any previous protection removed.

 

Its important to remove these stuck on contaminants when striving for the perfect finish as visually they will dull the paintwork, mute metallic flake etc If you are also planning on applying wax or any products in general, the durability of those products will be greatly reduced as they simply will not bond correctly to the surface. Future cleaning and drying of the vehicle will also be massively improved if you are working on a 'clean' surface.

 

One of the most important factors in detailing is understanding that the key to a good finish, is all in the prep work. Claying is one of these very first stages after the wash routine and should not be overlooked.

 

Here is an example Tony of what a clay bar can remove

 

Regards,

 

Christian

 

Picture016-1.jpg

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I'm going to have a bash at this at the weekend..... Where can i buy this stuff :whistle:

 

Mainly online like with all detailing gear but halfords will do the Megs kit - Link

 

It's also 3 for 2 on cleaning products so I would take advantage of that as well, maybe some Bumper Care and Shampoo

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Halfrauds it is then.

 

See how you get on and remember the keyword is lube, lots of it and you will probably use the whole bottle! In fact I'll make up a litre of last touch for you and bring it over tomorrow/saturday morning :whistle:

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Halfrauds it is then.

 

See how you get on and remember the keyword is lube, lots of it and you will probably use the whole bottle! In fact I'll make up a litre of last touch for you and bring it over tomorrow/saturday morning :whistle:

 

Cheers

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Halfrauds it is then.

 

See how you get on and remember the keyword is lube, lots of it and you will probably use the whole bottle! In fact I'll make up a litre of last touch for you and bring it over tomorrow/saturday morning :D

 

Cheers

 

No problem...do you know what last touch is though? :whistle:

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Halfrauds it is then.

 

See how you get on and remember the keyword is lube, lots of it and you will probably use the whole bottle! In fact I'll make up a litre of last touch for you and bring it over tomorrow/saturday morning :P

 

Cheers

 

No problem...do you know what last touch is though? :D

 

Nope :whistle:

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Halfrauds it is then.

 

See how you get on and remember the keyword is lube, lots of it and you will probably use the whole bottle! In fact I'll make up a litre of last touch for you and bring it over tomorrow/saturday morning :P

 

Cheers

 

No problem...do you know what last touch is though? :D

 

Nope :whistle:

 

All you need to know is here

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Not done it myself yet, but a lot of people recommend that you can just use blu-tack with diluted car shampoo as lube and it works just as well. Much cheaper option for a first go :nowink:

 

I've heard of people using that but not convinced myself, clay was made to be used on cars and is alot firmer than blu-tack from the ones I've used.

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I've heard of people using that but not convinced myself, clay was made to be used on cars and is alot firmer than blu-tack from the ones I've used.

There was some guy on LOC a while back who swore by using blu-tack, got lots of negativity and then a few tried it and realised it works just as well. I agree that a proper clay bar is probably better due to it being made for that purpose, but I have no idea whether it is so much better that it justifies the additional cost. I've used neither so am not the best person to ask, it might be good if you could try it out once just to see how well it works? :nowink:

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Tony, just had a thought but next you you're in Asda or Tesco get some Demon Shine....Halfrauds do sell it as well but it's more expensive. You can use this as a clay lube and drying aid as well. It's what I'm going to get when the LT runs out and that stuff is well expensive!

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Video I found for you Tony....

 

Wash the car but don't dry it, just go straight to claying it. When you've finished claying wash it again and then dry it. Now you can either polish first or go straight to wax -_-

 

Please wait a few moments for Video to Load!

 

 

What about Murr, i have loads of this.

 

I'm not keen TBH, in my manky sponge and leather days I used it but not any more.

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Polish is used to remove defects such as swirls and scratches, plus give the paint it's shine. Some polishes will actually remove the defects as they have different levels of cut and best used by machine. Other polishes have fillers which cover up the defects, not remove them. Wax or sealant is used to protect the paint afterwards. Alot of people get confused between the 2 and you only need to polish once a year, especially if by machine. When people say you'll polish that paint away you will probably find most detailers will actually be waxing :whistle:

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I think you get 2 clay bars with this kit as well so only open the one. Remember what I said about cutting it into 3 pieces and the bits you don't use wrap in cling film for next time. Remember if you drop it BIN IT! The paint will be super smooth after if done correctly :whistle:

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