CIH Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Does the gearbox catch on the near-side like on yours ER ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Very good point, bloke at the garage said theres a strong chance Delphi make the original arms. Well you can see the condition of the bush on the previous page. I think its too good to throw away, so maybe £10 ball joint and 30 odd quid labour is the way to go. Can get the Anti roll bar bushes done too then an alignment & she'll be ready for another track day. When mine need changing I'm getting delphi ones The car hasn't done much mileage so just replacing the ball joint for now would be fine as it sound's like you're trying to avoid a big bill! Does the gearbox catch on the near-side like on yours ER ? I believe the bolt runs horizontally now and the rear one vertically so it should be easy to remove them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 No need to spend money if its not needed, even if Delphi are rubbish, it would surely last long enough to outlive the existing bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 20 days later, an occassional clicking noise is becoming apparent when steering sharply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 20 days later, an occassional clicking noise is becoming apparent when steering sharply. Clicking is usually CV joint related but normally at low speeds when steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIH Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 driveshaft ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 20 days later, an occassional clicking noise is becoming apparent when steering sharply. Clicking is usually CV joint related but normally at low speeds when steering. That did occur to me, but I have no reason to suspect CV joint...better not be... I did have a similar Mondeo that needed a CV joint and that noise was more significant. May leave it till the banging gets a bit worse to confirm LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Load the joint as you turn the steering, if the noise increases in volume then it's the joint for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Load the joint as you turn the steering, if the noise increases in volume then it's the joint for sure. Excuse me, how would one perform this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Load the joint as you turn the steering, if the noise increases in volume then it's the joint for sure. Excuse me, how would one perform this? 2nd gear, load the drive with a slow constant amount of throttle then increase the lock under that load and listen if the steering action increases the clicking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Remember the fun you had when you did my cv joint Tony! Then I kept losing drive soon after and had clicking noises Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I have just had a brain wave Car was fine, up until I got the wheel bearing replaced, which now it seems didn't need replacing (garage said it didn't need it either). I had previously checked the suspension & drivetrain out a few days before and everything was in order. Wheel bearing replaced, check car and notice split rubber as seen in the pictures. I think this is fair to say that it broke when the hub was removed. Now a clicking noise as started, I thought it was the ball joint wearing out (what noise do they make?) but now it has been suggested its the CV joint. Who's to say the mechanic was ruff and damaged the CV joint too by holding it at a angle? this would suit in with the damage to the ball joint gaiter. I hope this is not the case, as I think the drie shaft would have to be replaced. and obviously, I have no way of proving the garage did this. I guess only time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 There is a chance it was caused by the garage but like you say there is no way of knowing for sure. The cv joint would need to come out of the knuckle/hub but it can be kept on the driveshaft. Does the clip holding the cv boot on look new? Could be they have put too much pressure on it and a bearing has come out. Or it could be a bearing has come off the other end that goes into the gearbox housing but you would probably get vibrating as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Question is, if the CV joint was damaged, wouldn't it have shown straight away? Where as the ball joint would fail gradually, which would fit into the time frame that I am experiencing. I have never experienced a defective ball joint so its hard to know what to look for. As for the clip holding on the CV boot, it doesnt look new, but it looks a damn sight cleaner than the drivers side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 I'm having trouble getting the correct part at the moment. A few places have advertised ST220 parts, but when I phone them up to order them "Oh sorry we dont actually sell parts for the ST220, only the normal Mondeo". This leaves ebay at £30 for the joint or £70 for the arm, according to the garage the labour charge is the same for both (3/4 of an hour). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted July 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 Paid £36 for joint, but the riverts were a pig to get out and it turned out it would have been cheaper to buy the whole arm in the long run. You live and learn eh. Got the bushes done too, check the difference, although it does appear the new bush is a bit squashed...the offside looks more relaxed? Perhaps the nearside of my car is slightly lower. Before After Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 Looks loads better..... I would drop the subframe to remove them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted July 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 What makes you say that Tony? I'm not sure how they did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 What makes you say that Tony? I'm not sure how they did it. You said it was a pig to get out, if you drop the subframe it not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbike Posted July 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 It was a pig getting the ball joint off the arm, according to Ford the subframe needs to be lowered to change the bushes but I'm not sure how the garage did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 It was a pig getting the ball joint off the arm, according to Ford the subframe needs to be lowered to change the bushes but I'm not sure how the garage did it. I see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 If it's the same as the MK2 the correct way is to lower the subframe slightly, but I changed mine without doing this. It's fiddily but doable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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