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Tips for bleeding new calipers


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The last time I bled the brakes with new calipers the weight of the tubing on the nipple kept turning it more than I wanted. As a result I think air was getting in past the threads on the nipple.

 

Anyone know how I can stop this happening for when I bleed the new ones on the MX5?

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Yes I know but the problem is the nipples are new and I find the weight of the tubing spins it open further than I want. How can I stop that happening?

 

I've got a one man bleed kit and going to try gravity bleeding first.

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Thanks but that didn't really answer my question. As they're new bleed nipples they spin very easily and I wanted to stop that.

 

I used the tube with a non return valve and opened the nipple 1/4 turn, then tried to wedge the spanner to stop movement but fluid was still getting past the threads.

 

Once the calipers were full I tapped them gently with a mallet and pumped the pedal a few times to get the fluid through. Then I wedged the pedal down on the last stroke and did the nipple up. The tube has no bubbles in but as fluid had dropped from the threads I thought air had probably got back in.

 

Surprisingly on a drive around the block the pedal felt ok and it stopped well. I didn't have to pump it like you do when air is in the system. I've got new pads on too so that will make it feel a little spongey.

 

I'd still be happier bringing the car over to you for a fluid change which I'll PM you about. At least I'll know it's been done properly.

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Gareth did a good job and used a bleeder connected to the air lines. I didn't actually notice any difference in braking on the drive home but feel better knowing it's got fresh fluid and done properly.

 

I have to admit I've not really changed brake (or clutch) fluid according to the service schedules and only done it if it really needs doing.

 

I'll have a look on the service sheet for the Lexus and see if they put anything about the fluid.

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