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Handling differences


boost mad
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Im going to give you 2 lots of geo settings.

 

Can you tell me how the cars handling would change between the 2 please

 

 

1)

 

Front: 1.5° negative camber, 2mm toe-in.

Caster as close to 3’30° as you can get.

Rear: 1.5° negative camber, up to 3mm toe-in

 

2)

 

Front: 3° negative camber*, 2mm toe-in.

Caster as close to 3’30° as you can get.

Rear: 2.25° negative camber, 3mm toe-in.

 

 

Thanking you.

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Im going to give you 2 lots of geo settings.

 

Can you tell me how the cars handling would change between the 2 please

 

 

1)

 

Front: 1.5° negative camber, 2mm toe-in.

Caster as close to 3’30° as you can get.

Rear: 1.5° negative camber, up to 3mm toe-in

 

2)

 

Front: 3° negative camber*, 2mm toe-in.

Caster as close to 3’30° as you can get.

Rear: 2.25° negative camber, 3mm toe-in.

 

 

Thanking you.

 

#1 feels neutral, light feel to the steering at speed but with a very fast turn in.

 

#2 Feels planted, slightly heavy steering weight compared to one but still feels twitchy at speed, turn in is rapid with the essence of oversteer.

 

why do you ask?

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what car ? what mods (if any) ? what's it used for ?

 

Sierra Sapphire cosworth.

 

Mods Geo wise will be

 

gaz coilovers

adjustable TCAs

Adjustable rear beam ( for toe and camber)

adjustable top mounts ( for front)

 

Weekend toy with trackdays.

 

 

#1 feels neutral, light feel to the steering at speed but with a very fast turn in.

 

#2 Feels planted, slightly heavy steering weight compared to one but still feels twitchy at speed, turn in is rapid with the essence of oversteer.

 

why do you ask?

 

Cheers Tony.

 

These are setting that ive been told to try out. Unfortunatly i dont know the original settings, and was unsure if the person that told me was talking out of his rear lol

 

 

cheers for the replies

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Mods Geo wise will be

 

gaz coilovers

adjustable TCAs

Adjustable rear beam ( for toe and camber)

adjustable top mounts ( for front)

 

Weekend toy with trackdays.

 

That is going to handle very well!! B)

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#2 is the better setup but some additions may help...

1: manual rack 3.5 castor is fine

2: power rack add as much castor as possible

3: If the car has Polly's fitted set toe to Zero front/ rear

4: No polly's rear toe +40', if the car has plenty BHP then +60'

5: Polly or not negative front toe really helps turn in but feels very twitchy at speed.

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It will on a standard powersteering rack which if i remember correctly is 2.4turns lock to lock.

 

Can i ask why with polys you would reduce the amount of toe on the front ?

 

The rear will have original type serphical bushes.

 

Toe is a compliance angle? meaning the actual desire dynamically is a zero toe position (domestically) As the bushings are stiffened or removed you don't need to compensate for bushing movement. For competition this is a good thing since any addition of toe front or rear is a matter of fact rather than a calculated possibility on sloppy bushings.

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#2 is the better setup but some additions may help...

1: manual rack 3.5 castor is fine

2: power rack add as much castor as possible

3: If the car has Polly's fitted set toe to Zero front/ rear

4: No polly's rear toe +40', if the car has plenty BHP then +60'

5: Polly or not negative front toe really helps turn in but feels very twitchy at speed.

 

Would it really see that much toe movement under transmission load ? :D

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