boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 OK, so the problem goes like this ive got a mk3 mondeo tdci. When i first got it it had uneven tyre wear, and a problem on the rear i can only discribe as the body moving sepertaly from the suspension. i.e if i hit a bump or pothole etc with one of the rear wheels the body would move in that direction. hit a hole with the left rear wheel, the body will lurch left, and same with the other side ( left is much worse tho ) Knowing that the rear subframe bushes are a common problem on the MK3 i enlisted fords services with fitting new ones. This didnt solve the problem. So upto WIM i went After being made feel very welcome, and being talked through everything it turned out both front and rear subframes were out and as was every other possible geo setting. I left Wim very pleased with what they had done for me and showed me with regards to what they had done. Tyre wear gone, wandering gone,buti still have this problem at the back. The only thing i can put it down to is a slightly bent arm ( as there are 3, 2 going to the subframe, and one going forward ). all bushes look fine to me ( and to ford apparently lol ). Help me shine some light on this ..... please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Hi Boost mad We have had this once before without resolve..... can we take you under our wing and work together examining all the possibilities regarding you complaint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Did you replace the rear subframe bushes with normal rubber or poly bushes? Most people change to poly bushes cos they last alot longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Hi Boost madWe have had this once before without resolve..... can we take you under our wing and work together examining all the possibilities regarding you complaint? you sure can, you must be the one company i feel safe in the hands of. you are a few miles from me but imsure we can sort something. Did you replace the rear subframe bushes with normal rubber or poly bushes? Most people change to poly bushes cos they last alot longer. Just normal ones, havnt done alot of miles since having them fitted yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Mark@wim will call you tomorrow to explore our options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Mark@wim will call you tomorrow to explore our options. Nice one Tony, im off work tomorrow trying to bolt up my front subframe as the bolt just wont go back in lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Mark@wim will call you tomorrow to explore our options. Nice one Tony, im off work tomorrow trying to bolt up my front subframe as the bolt just wont go back in lol For gods sake don't unlock the tied nut!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 by tied nut im guessing you mean the one that is incased by the chassis rail that is unreachable? It moves from side to side but doesnt spin . The haynes manual make changing the front lower arms look so easy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 by tied nut im guessing you mean the one that is incased by the chassis rail that is unreachable? It moves from side to side but doesnt spin . The haynes manual make changing the front lower arms look so easy lol That nut is held in two parallel folded metal wings so if it rocks then it's ready to ride the ledge, your best to use a constant pressure rather than hammer to lock the bolt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 sorry tony,not quite with you ( itsbeen along day lol ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 sorry tony,not quite with you ( itsbeen along day lol ) Once you get purchase on the bolt keep a constant pressure while you tighten it (manually)..... If you use an airgun the hammer will dislodge the captive nut from it's home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 ah, im with you now. no air tools here. the problem iwas having is i could get the bolts upto the nut, but after acouple of turns it would turn no more. I think its jusst a matter of getting the bolt up 100% straight which i must not be doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 ah, im with you now. no air tools here. the problem iwas having is i could get the bolts upto the nut, but after acouple of turns it would turn no more. I think its jusst a matter of getting the bolt up 100% straight which i must not be doing. Be carefull.... it reads like the "pitch", thread is folded so the bolt will lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Uh oh...I hope the captive nut isn't going to give you grief! You may have to go through the floor and hold the nut still? I thought this was only a problem on the older mondys though as haven't heard of it happening on the newer ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 again, please excuse my denseness but im not with you again lol when i say it will turn no more, i mean the bolt makes contact with the nut, screws in a couple of threads and then will screw in no more. almost like its going to crossthread, so i stop there and vent my angre on the nearest fence lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 again, please excuse my denseness but im not with you again lol when i say it will turn no more, i mean the bolt makes contact with the nut, screws in a couple of threads and then will screw in no more. almost like its going to crossthread, so i stop there and vent my angre on the nearest fence lol Is the thread on the bolt ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 I looks perfect to me. and ive cleaned it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boost mad Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Uh oh...I hope the captive nut isn't going to give you grief! You may have to go through the floor and hold the nut still? I thought this was only a problem on the older mondys though as haven't heard of it happening on the newer ones? i must ofmissed your post, sorry. can you even get to it through the floor ? its the front of the crossmember so right up next to the rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 It's a front bolt then not a rear? The rears you have to go in from under the carpet if it's the same as mine, a MK2. On the fronts there must be some way you can access the nut. I've not had problems with the front bolts so never looked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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