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When to upgrade brakes


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Ok a question.

 

I love the stock brake set up on my NSX...power is fantastic for road use and the feel from the pedal is the best of any car I've ever driven...actually Honda seem to have brake feel sussed........

 

For track use they rarely fade and then only after 15 -20 mins use.... i.e. 2 laps of the ring ....and this with OEM pads.....

 

Basically is there any point in looking at pad/disc upgrades if I'm not going to use the extra on track.....15 mins cool off and they're fine again...plus wouldn't want to upset the road feel which is the majority of the car's use

 

I've not done too many "short " circuits so is this likely to be a bigger issue at places like Oulton/ Coombe etc

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Difficult one that..... Would you consider changing the pads purely for your track days then re-fitting the OEM pads after?

 

On your car fitting the pads takes 30min....

Erm not if I'm doing it Tony :)

 

Good suggestion tho.....presumably the track pads would need a while to bed in ??? 500miles or am I out of date. That's no problem cus you could do all of that when it comes in for set up... which I'd do well in advance anyway so's to get used to it....

 

Tyres, pads, set up....divorce...oh well it'll be worth it :huh:

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Difficult one that..... Would you consider changing the pads purely for your track days then re-fitting the OEM pads after?

 

On your car fitting the pads takes 30min....

Erm not if I'm doing it Tony :D

 

Good suggestion tho.....presumably the track pads would need a while to bed in ??? 500miles or am I out of date. That's no problem cus you could do all of that when it comes in for set up... which I'd do well in advance anyway so's to get used to it....

 

Tyres, pads, set up....divorce...oh well it'll be worth it :rolleyes:

Red stuff pads take about 15ft to bed in.... And boy do they work. The last car i fitted them on i nearly nutted the steering wheel when i parked it up after fitment... :blush:

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Redstuff are great but soft and pretty wooden when cold. You'll probably destroy a set at the ring. Yellow stuff is a better pad again, better when cold, better when hot and I can really recommend you start with these and go from there. The brilliance of yellow stuff is they've a good CoF (0.58) yet they still release the disc really well so when you just overstep the limit of braking its easy to release the one wheel without having to forgo too much retardation.

 

One other thing to consider is a set of carbotechs. A lot like the yellow stuff but a little bit better once warm and even more fade resistant (though the temperatures we're talking about it's a moot point on the stock brake systems, even one as good as the NSX) and they will outlast the yellow stuff by a long, long way! The only problem with them is they dust and squeak quite a lot so if it's a daily car it could get annoying.

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  • 1 month later...

Funny, most people complain about the NSX brakes as fading very quickly. I've used Redstuff pads once, never again. I know, people are going to say 'but Redstuff pads now are better than they used to be', but I've been there once and not going again.

 

The Honda discs are going to be the best you can get. Anything 'aftermarket' may have grooves and slots and all sorts of stuff, but the basic metal doesn't last as long as Honda discs. Harder pads than Honda's and you'll be changing the discs more often too. Do you know they cost £250 each?

 

Improving the cooling is the first thing most people do.

 

There are some nice pads by Project Mu, Hawk and Carbotech. I use Mintex 1144 but they make a lot of mess.

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Funny, most people complain about the NSX brakes as fading very quickly. I've used Redstuff pads once, never again. I know, people are going to say 'but Redstuff pads now are better than they used to be', but I've been there once and not going again.

 

The Honda discs are going to be the best you can get. Anything 'aftermarket' may have grooves and slots and all sorts of stuff, but the basic metal doesn't last as long as Honda discs. Harder pads than Honda's and you'll be changing the discs more often too. Do you know they cost £250 each?

 

Improving the cooling is the first thing most people do.

 

There are some nice pads by Project Mu, Hawk and Carbotech. I use Mintex 1144 but they make a lot of mess.

 

Very true... Many owners think changing the pads is the do all and end all to their problems.

 

Obviously the thermal stability profiling of the disc needs careful consideration before any attempt to change the kinetic pad range.

 

If i recall your NSX had some significant modifications to the front brakes..... How was this researched?

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Funny, most people complain about the NSX brakes as fading very quickly. I've used Redstuff pads once, never again. I know, people are going to say 'but Redstuff pads now are better than they used to be', but I've been there once and not going again.

 

The Honda discs are going to be the best you can get. Anything 'aftermarket' may have grooves and slots and all sorts of stuff, but the basic metal doesn't last as long as Honda discs. Harder pads than Honda's and you'll be changing the discs more often too. Do you know they cost £250 each?

 

Improving the cooling is the first thing most people do.

 

There are some nice pads by Project Mu, Hawk and Carbotech. I use Mintex 1144 but they make a lot of mess.

 

Yellow stuff is now comparable with carbotech xp8s in bite and operating range however yellow stuff wears many times faster.

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The rotor sizes and pistons, were calculated to give the same balance front/rear as the standard brakes.

 

The 'research' is done by empirical testing. I couldn't do 5 laps at Bedford before having to come in to cool down. Now I can stay out driving for an hour.

 

Thermal strips show I don't need to use the hard race pads I used to use. That's why I can use softer 1144 now. I could probably use even lighter, but I can't seem to find normal 'road' compounds as my calipers take AP Racing shaped pads, and they seem to all be err, racing pads.

 

Though now I use R888s and have a nice alignment :thumbsup_anim: I don't need to slow down for corners (as much).

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The 'research' is done by empirical testing. I couldn't do 5 laps at Bedford before having to come in to cool down.

 

You manage 5 laps? I average about 3 at bedford before I have to cool down... that flat featureless circuit really makes my blood boil :thumbsup_anim:

 

What was the NSX stock setup?

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280mm x 28 front, 280 x 23 rear. Two piston caliper front, single rear. There is some ducting to cool the fronts as standard.

 

Honda NSX pads are quite hard. Dealers say that on road-only driven NSXs they hardly need to change pads, they last for ages.

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  • 11 months later...

If your wanting to keep brake feel and set up have a look a dixel brakes, i can get you them if needed.

 

They take no time to heat up and can take up to silly temps 850 degrees.

 

Dixel can supply amazing discs as well anything from standard, heat treated, or carbon.

 

I would sujest type z pads and if your looking at discs probably the heat treated which they do in normal or slotted.

 

Prices arent on the site yet so pm me if your interested.

 

http://www.dixcelbrake.co.uk/

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  • 5 months later...

Granted I have less power, weight etc than your nsx in my s2000 but I recently had fluid, pads and discs done alround by Honda. Previously at Bedford after 4 laps I was dead and the pedal was on the floor. Now I go in as my tyres have got too warm and the arse is all over the place (re050a's)

 

I find my 'problem' now is not having enough braking force so I'm braking earlier than the other cars around me(specifcally last time the only place a 111r was catching me up was under braking)

 

After this round of suspension work and some coilovers I'm going to look at wilwood 4 or 6 pots on the front to try and help out !

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Granted I have less power, weight etc than your nsx in my s2000 but I recently had fluid, pads and discs done alround by Honda. Previously at Bedford after 4 laps I was dead and the pedal was on the floor. Now I go in as my tyres have got too warm and the arse is all over the place (re050a's)

 

I find my 'problem' now is not having enough braking force so I'm braking earlier than the other cars around me(specifcally last time the only place a 111r was catching me up was under braking)

 

After this round of suspension work and some coilovers I'm going to look at wilwood 4 or 6 pots on the front to try and help out !

 

Get some decent track pads on before you worry about the expense of new calipers. The stock brakes on my MR2 turbo can outbrake pretty much anything for a long ol' stint providing the right friction material is gripping the disk.

 

The Honda OEM pads will be useless. Start with EBC yellow stuff and report back for some more advise :crying_anim02:

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Granted I have less power, weight etc than your nsx in my s2000 but I recently had fluid, pads and discs done alround by Honda. Previously at Bedford after 4 laps I was dead and the pedal was on the floor. Now I go in as my tyres have got too warm and the arse is all over the place (re050a's)

 

I find my 'problem' now is not having enough braking force so I'm braking earlier than the other cars around me(specifcally last time the only place a 111r was catching me up was under braking)

 

After this round of suspension work and some coilovers I'm going to look at wilwood 4 or 6 pots on the front to try and help out !

 

Get some decent track pads on before you worry about the expense of new calipers. The stock brakes on my MR2 turbo can outbrake pretty much anything for a long ol' stint providing the right friction material is gripping the disk.

 

The Honda OEM pads will be useless. Start with EBC yellow stuff and report back for some more advise :)

 

Sound advice :D

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  • 1 month later...
Granted I have less power, weight etc than your nsx in my s2000 but I recently had fluid, pads and discs done alround by Honda. Previously at Bedford after 4 laps I was dead and the pedal was on the floor. Now I go in as my tyres have got too warm and the arse is all over the place (re050a's)

 

I find my 'problem' now is not having enough braking force so I'm braking earlier than the other cars around me(specifcally last time the only place a 111r was catching me up was under braking)

 

After this round of suspension work and some coilovers I'm going to look at wilwood 4 or 6 pots on the front to try and help out !

 

Get some decent track pads on before you worry about the expense of new calipers. The stock brakes on my MR2 turbo can outbrake pretty much anything for a long ol' stint providing the right friction material is gripping the disk.

 

The Honda OEM pads will be useless. Start with EBC yellow stuff and report back for some more advise :lol:

 

Sound advice :angry2:

 

 

 

Talking of EBC stuff Tony, those green stuff6000 series pads you fitted on my RX300 back in November, well its 5000 miles on and still can't get those shims in because they haven't worn down enough, not that I'm complaining or owt, actually I'm amazed!!

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Granted I have less power, weight etc than your nsx in my s2000 but I recently had fluid, pads and discs done alround by Honda. Previously at Bedford after 4 laps I was dead and the pedal was on the floor. Now I go in as my tyres have got too warm and the arse is all over the place (re050a's)

 

I find my 'problem' now is not having enough braking force so I'm braking earlier than the other cars around me(specifcally last time the only place a 111r was catching me up was under braking)

 

After this round of suspension work and some coilovers I'm going to look at wilwood 4 or 6 pots on the front to try and help out !

 

Get some decent track pads on before you worry about the expense of new calipers. The stock brakes on my MR2 turbo can outbrake pretty much anything for a long ol' stint providing the right friction material is gripping the disk.

 

The Honda OEM pads will be useless. Start with EBC yellow stuff and report back for some more advise :lol:

 

Sound advice :angry2:

 

 

 

Talking of EBC stuff Tony, those green stuff6000 series pads you fitted on my RX300 back in November, well its 5000 miles on and still can't get those shims in because they haven't worn down enough, not that I'm complaining or owt, actually I'm amazed!!

 

Me too actually.... Do the brakes squeak though?

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Granted I have less power, weight etc than your nsx in my s2000 but I recently had fluid, pads and discs done alround by Honda. Previously at Bedford after 4 laps I was dead and the pedal was on the floor. Now I go in as my tyres have got too warm and the arse is all over the place (re050a's)

 

I find my 'problem' now is not having enough braking force so I'm braking earlier than the other cars around me(specifcally last time the only place a 111r was catching me up was under braking)

 

After this round of suspension work and some coilovers I'm going to look at wilwood 4 or 6 pots on the front to try and help out !

 

Get some decent track pads on before you worry about the expense of new calipers. The stock brakes on my MR2 turbo can outbrake pretty much anything for a long ol' stint providing the right friction material is gripping the disk.

 

The Honda OEM pads will be useless. Start with EBC yellow stuff and report back for some more advise :o

 

Sound advice :sad01_anim:

 

 

 

Talking of EBC stuff Tony, those green stuff6000 series pads you fitted on my RX300 back in November, well its 5000 miles on and still can't get those shims in because they haven't worn down enough, not that I'm complaining or owt, actually I'm amazed!!

 

Me too actually.... Do the brakes squeak though?

 

 

Each time Iv'e tried to see if I can fit the shims, and found I can't so put everthing back together, about a day or two maybe. quiete as a mouse now, stops on a sixpence too, mind you I did plumb for the 6000 and not the standard 4000. I'd say they take more stick from an auto, compared to manual too.

And come to think of it, they've not come cheap though, the first check to see if the shims would go in, my mate broke a wheel stud, that got me a 60 quid bill to put right.

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Are you pushing the piston back before trying to fit the shims?

 

Yup and so did the chap at the garage I took it to for it's MOT. 3 tries so far. Brill innit lol

I just wish now that these had been about 20 years ago, when I was rallying, woulda saved me a fortune

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Are you pushing the piston back before trying to fit the shims?

 

Yup and so did the chap at the garage I took it to for it's MOT. 3 tries so far. Brill innit lol

 

Not good for business these everlasting pads :sad01_anim:

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Are you pushing the piston back before trying to fit the shims?

 

Yup and so did the chap at the garage I took it to for it's MOT. 3 tries so far. Brill innit lol

 

Not good for business these everlasting pads :sad01_anim:

 

I reckon I'm up your way May3rd for the Derby v Watford match, but just thought you're not open Sundays are you? I would have popped in and had a cuppa and let you have a look, surely they'd be worn down enough by then? Well chuffed with the tyre wear too! cheers again 5k on and still pretty much no wear, deffo even too

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Are you pushing the piston back before trying to fit the shims?

 

Yup and so did the chap at the garage I took it to for it's MOT. 3 tries so far. Brill innit lol

 

Not good for business these everlasting pads :lol:

 

I reckon I'm up your way May3rd for the Derby v Watford match, but just thought you're not open Sundays are you? I would have popped in and had a cuppa and let you have a look, surely they'd be worn down enough by then? Well chuffed with the tyre wear too! cheers again 5k on and still pretty much no wear, deffo even too

 

No Sundays.... i'm to knacked!..... Good news about the tyre wear and the pads come to think of it :P

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