Vipercar93

Ahh thought it was a 1.6 corrolla with a T-sport body kit. That engine you have doesn't make good MPG, relatively, but should get better than what you are getting? You driving in the city much? I see what you mean by a 'bike' engine. No wonder you have to sit at the high rpms, no torque in the low rpms worth squat nice high revver though! A screamer, will have to take me for a spin sometime =) http://i108.photobuc...hnid/img057.jpg and that's with a high flow exhaust and CAI.

ROFL! I doubt he will be running many more races.

Did you use die-electric grease when you connected the ground back up? If not you will get a bad connection as the metal corrodes. Bolting onto the car like you did is great, metal to metal contact, anywhere on the unibody 'will' earth. The issue is corrosion. I have some if you want to meet up. Cel's will be thrown, but only when the sensor meets the designated parameters. It could be the front O2 is carboned up a bit and reading a bit slow, which affects mpg since it might read leaner than what it actually is, but not bad enough for a code to show. Sensors can be expensive. If the cat is breaking up, that can cause a restriction, but it would probably throw a code for that too. 2.5k sounds a tiny bit high, but reasonable considering where you powercurves are. Where do the other people shift?

It 'could' if it's causing a weak spark. Did you stick with the OEM plugs with the OEM gap? How old are the wires and coilpack? Bad grounds can cause erratic sensor readings which can affect everything about the engine. A bad coolant sensor can affect engine performance as well as poor coolant. Link liner said, around down you should be getting high 20's and on the highway you should be getting mid 30's. When was the cat changed last? Have you done a compression check? When were the O2 sensors changed out last? Lastly, what RPM are you changing gear at? High revvs will eat fuel up too. You want to change as low as you are comfortable with. In my case when I shift I end up between 1000-1500 rpm unless I want to go for it. Full boost at 2k so fun times =) Some engines are not happy that low, depends on the cam profiles and how the oiling system is set up.

An engine is basically a pump. If either end of the pump is restricted it will not be able to pull as much air, or escape as much waste as it normally would, which makes the engine work harder. V power is not the same as real fuel system cleaner. I gained nearly 2mpg just by changing out my air filter.. as long as I keep my foot out of it. Each engine is different, but you should see an improvement. Sounds like you have most the bases covered =)

Crazy! Window was smashed out before he went through?

Easier to clean in the rain and you don't have to worry about the sun baking your water off =)

Ooops =)

sexy =)

lol Such a cutie =)

Looking good! I don't think they are painted, looks like they have just been acid stripped or just cast. Your MPG depends on how much inner city driving you are doing compared to them. In the city low 20's is to be expected. On the highway though if you are getting that I doubt it's just the brakes dragging to get that MPG. If they were dragging that bad you wouldn't have had brakes at all I would think. Double check your air pressures, run some injector cleaner and double check your air filter. Maybe get a K&N dry filter, they help with MPG, less restriction on either end of the engine will improve MPG. Check your plug gaps against what they should be, check their condition too. Oil topped up, fresh, to OEM spec? That's a good start to improve MPG =) The best way is your right foot though.

Looks good! Must be a nice ride =)

I like! =) No kidding Tony!

PITA, not really. I have torn the transmission down a couple times already. I 'can' have the gearset out and back in during a day. The time wasting was a pain though since it was totally avoidable if the original contact with their helpdesk was done properly. I can get the basics here like oil and brake pads. Everything else I get Stateside. Nobody stocks the parts I want unless I go to a dealer, and then it's cheaper if I just order the parts myself. I had the dealer quote up a set of rear disks and pads and shoes. They wanted just under £500 for the parts I bought them Stateside from the local autoshop my family uses and got them for just over $100...

Thanks guys! I have used the AG polish, not a fan personally. I have used their fast glass, that seems to work pretty well. Will check out IPA and see how much the 3m stuff is. Once I shift the grease off I could probably get away with just a rag like Liner said so long as I use a clean rag.

I don't see how, you're just renting abit of space to keep the car there. I'd hate to see you regret selling the car so soon. Ideas like that sound good on paper, there is always something that gets in the way though when stuff like that actually happens. That's a shame Tony =( I hope you can find some way to keep it.

That's a shame! Chesham is a drive and a half for me!

I have no hope then in finding bad shocks through vibrations... My wheel shakes with just my engine on and my rear view mirror, and my gear shift... and.. and... Ok you get the point. I knew you could pick up funky vibrations with bad shocks, but didn't think it would be noticeable until they were all but gone.

Only if there is a wheel tax =) I like it, could see those useful for many applications.

Ahh that makes sense with the callipers! You would have to talk to Tony obviously about offsets and that. It's a good bet that someone makes the steelie you need. but if you can get a set of alloy's for 100 or less that's a steal.

You don't have to stick with what the car came with. Find out the bolt pattern and there is probably a steely made in the wheel size you want =) It's pretty common to see people in Wisconsin run steelies for winter. Nice to see you have the callipers sorted. Would it be easier to paint the callipers while they are off the car?

I have another voucher from Opie Oils, if we get another it would cut the cost in 1/2 because of a 2 for 1 voucher.

Almost sounds like a weight or something stuck to the wheel tapping a dust shield. It's too uniform IMO for pad rattle.

Previous event with my buddy found here... http://www.wheels-in...showtopic=10456 My Buddy and I were thinking this time hitting up Daytona @ MK by the end of the month. It's only an arrive and drive session, but still will be fun to have a blast in their 2 stroke karts! Supposedly they 'can' top 80MPH, personally I think with my excess baggage and experience I would be lucky to hit 60 but even then! Is anyone else from WIM interested in meeting up with us there? Date: 29SEP12 &1030 (To Be Confirmed) Location: Daytona MK Session: DMAX A&D 25 minute Cost : £50 (Tip : If you buy something of Opie oils you get a voucher for these sessions 2-1 discount!) The date can be flexible but we want to get it in before the weather starts cooling down more and turning pants. Cooler tracks tend to get a bit slippy and I don't relish the idea of running 2 strokes in the rain on a cool track. The power delivery is a bit like a switch in 2 strokes... which isn't something that's driver friendly when you need throttle inputs to turn! Mods feel free to move this if it doesn't belong in WIM club days.

I have always had problems with my windows having either water marks on the outside and smearing of 'window cleaner' on the inside. It really stands out in the morning when they fog up really bad. Anyone use anything that works? The water marks are easy enough I guess just by drying before the water evaporates, it's mainly the smearing I get on the inside that's a problem.