fluff34567 Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 hi tony, i posted over on the outlaw forum but was advised to post here also...... just wondering if you have ever come across my current situation before??? I replaced the front lower ball joints few days ago and took the car for a geo adjustment... it was a total nightmare! They couldnt adjust the camber on ANY corner! I know the rears have an issue with the adjuster riding up over the adjustment lip (the lip is half the height of the adjuster!) but I have never had this with the front before. The max amount of adjustment was half a degree on both front corners and thats it, we couldnt get the front RH back to original at all after adjustment - the adjuster nuts were not too loose either. I had a look if the guy was turning the correct adjuster and he was, he didnt appear too confident but its obvious there is an issue. For the rear it looks like i will need to get new lower suspension arms but i am loathed to start replacing front items unless I am 100% sure thats the issue. any tips or hints? The front however is a bigger issue its either the bushings in the number 1 lower arm or the adjuster lip on the suspension member has gone. it looked like here was a small bit of movement in the bush but i suspect its the lip because when turning the adjuster nothing really happens. i did find some adjustable bushes from fensport.. maybe thats an option but i doubt it. answers on a postcard please!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scorps Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Tony may not be around today,family BBQ. http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/forum/ind...0&start=180 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 How low from stock is the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROB Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 How low from stock is the car? hi Tony, The car is -30mm on eibach springs and std dampers. i saw some comments about an adjustable upper ball joint but thats not an option for me as i am not in the UK and need a certification document. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Will the OSR camber lower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROB Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 its at - 2.03 degrees at the moment and TBH it hardly moved when turning the adjuster so i reckon a new lower arm is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 Thing is on the lower car you have a higher coil rate so you can afford deeper cambers.... About - 40' on the front and -1 degree 30 on the rear would work well. I must say though of the 100's i've calibrated i've never not been able to adjust the rear camber or toe even if the toe adjuster rides the ledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 is it possible the adjuster bolt has seized into the bush, i had this on the GS, and also had a pain to get any movement on the adjusters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROB Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 is it possible the adjuster bolt has seized into the bush, i had this on the GS, and also had a pain to get any movement on the adjusters hi tony mat, ok tony so to be clear if i get the rear to negative 1.30 then that sould be ok? the toe adjustment was fine but i know the adjustment lip for the rear suspension arm is well past its best before date . for the front i ill will put it on the ramp, loosen the bolt and see if it is siezed, i doubt it though as i went thru all the adjusters 2 yeas and and cleaned them up and used anti sieze......but you never know... ill hope to try it this weekend but might have to be next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 The front adjusters sometimes lock to the bushing but i've never had this on the rear...... Maybe adjust the rear camber with the wheels off the ground, the machine allows for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted May 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 hi tony, been on vacation so have not had the chance to reply.... the wheels off the ground sounds good but I have absolutly no chance of having that done here... all thats available is quick fit type places and i get strange looks when asking for something different from the settings in the machine so much so I have had to forge a toyota headed paper with the settings you have suggested. i have however found somewhere with a 3d machine, but its a pokey little garage and am expecting the same stare. I put my summer wheels on today and had a good look at the front and rear arms - rear arms adjustment lip is shot on both sides and at a 45 degree angle rather than the normal 90 degree. For the front i think the bushes have given out, on the bush there is a sort of castlated section of the bush - this can be turned by hand, i am guessing this shouldnr be the case? next steps are to check the costs of a full arm assy or look at just bushes and if its an easy job to replace bushes only..... anyone know if a hydraulic press will be needed to remove the original bushes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Reads like fun...... We normally burn the bushings out but failing that if you hacksaw through the centre metal core to the outer core this will relive pressure, then you can use a socket and hammer the bushing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted May 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 cheers tony, here is a pic of the bush i have marked the loose bit, its the same on both sides i can freely rotate it using fingertips. ill be on the llok out for bushes and see what i can come up with... what brand do u use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 The part you highlighted is meant to float, it has nothing to do with the bushing condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted May 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 hmmmmmm i guess ill have to take the bolt out and have a look whats happening. i can only assume its the bushing as the adjustment lip is in perfect condition. ta 4 the replies tony. edit.... is it not possible to fit a slightly larger adjuster when people run out of range? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 19, 2011 Report Share Posted May 19, 2011 No because the range is fixed..... Make a mark in the adjusters current position and remove the bolts.... In truth if the wheel are raised i would put the adjuster position on zero and simply push the wheel into the correct angle, the ledge is only there for "wheels down adjustment", many cars need wheels raised adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 hi tony, i missed your last reply..... i would love to come over to you but distance is the issue..... i have tried numerous places here and none are able to do wheels in air alignment. as an update i have been getting some squeeks and other noises when steering at low parking speeds, i saw the steering rack had a lot of movement so replaced the 3 bushes, this has improved the steering feel but the car still feels like a block of jelly when at motorway speeds and going over a bump. note rack does not need to be removed - just use a bolt and washers and a socket as a spacer to remove them - took me 1 hour i had another geo thru the local dealer outsourced to a geo place and in all fairness they have done what they can, but i have seen something they have done that ill forward to you as a potential "horror of the week" candidate - i am not impressed TBH and wil be complaining strongly. but anyway i have decided to order the front number 1 and number 2 lower arm bushes and i have also ordered the rear suspension arm - ill replace those next week. NOW my biggest issue at the moment - i am trying to track down a supplier for the bushing that is in the hub where the rear lower suspension arm bolts too and also where the camber adjuster bolt goes thru. Do you have any ideas for a source? i have read its not a normal bushing but actually a rose bearing with a sleeve - can you confirm/deny? i dont want to take the arm off and then find the bushing is knackered before i have a replacement as the car will be off the road for a day while i am doing the replacements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 30, 2011 Report Share Posted August 30, 2011 The likes of powerflex are your best option. The lower camber pick up point is a rose joint so you don't need to replace that unless it's knocking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 hi tony, yes thats the one... i have some some movement on the rose joint, am currently trying to find a supplier but drawing a blank, i know the GS300 has the same hub and rose joint but so far no luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 How about the wheel alignment and ball joint centre? Might be worth a call. Also there's Steve Heath Engineering, they made the rose joints for our Mazda drop links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted September 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 i found a supplier on ebay so have a set coming to me... ill report back when i have everything ready and also for a confirmation of the setting i have.. if thats ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 Indeed it is... well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 Cheers Tony. I have replaced all 4 front arm bushes, new front/rear ARB links, new lower balljoints, inner and outer track rods and the rear 2 lower suspension arms. Had to cut out 1 of the rear arms though as the bolt had siezed in the bush - angle grinder and cutting disc sorted that in about 30 mins. i have an issue with the steering rack having excessive movement when the car is still, the rack has new bushes and the wheels turn freely with the tie rod disconnected. Apart from that its fine. waiting for some polyurethane or solid Figs drivers side steering bushes which should hopefully fix that issue. putting my new winter tyres on after I do the bushes. Nokian WR A3 http://www.nokiantyres.com/tyre?id=2139912...ame=Nokian%20WR A3 215/45 R17 91V XL BSW would prefer the Hakkapeliitta R but delivery time is too long. do you have a link to the revised settings somewhere?? - i cant find it but i know they are here somewhere.... Its the standard 17" wheels with standard suspension on eibach -30mm springs. In the past I couldnt get the front camber but hopefully with the new bushes that should be sorted - fingers crossed! if i cant get the ideal camber what would be the max limit - or can that that only be determined with all the other settings? many many many thanks for all your help so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Link can be found here> http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge...id=372&c=18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluff34567 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Link can be found here> http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/knowledge...id=372&c=18 maybe I dont follow but do i just leave all the settings as std and adjust the camber to 15’ negative ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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