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Vauxhall Omega Geometry


nordic
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I have a Vauxhall Omega and have found that the front inner sidewall has been scrubbed away after only a few thousand miles

 

Having had the tracking done by a small local garage and replaced the tyres with new, I found that after a motorway run the inside of the dirver's side sidewall was very hot.

 

I fear the camber will need adjusting?

 

Who do you recommend in the North East of England?

 

It appears that the Vauxhall settings for geometry are not the best? How do I ensure the garage will apply the best settings to my car?

 

Any giudance would be greatly appreciated :lol:

 

Andy

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Omegas are very prone to this and I suffered too. Ended up replacing all the track rod linkages (because they always seize solid so you can't adjust them) and it did help, but I think there's more to it than that - probably bottom arm bushes.

 

I struggled to get a consistent toe adjustment - it seemed to vary a lot so am sure there was something else that was moving a bit but as the head gasket went, a rear wheel bearing was noisy and it was getting rusty I called time.

 

Need to check the rear suspension too as I think play there can contribute to this.

 

Hopefully "snotty" Tony can shed some light? :lol:

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Very worrying if the tyres have scrubbed in a few K :lol: The Omega does have camber issues but nothing you should detected after just a few miles. This place that did the alignment are you sure they haven't set the toe in a stupid toe-out position? Because if they have the tyre temperature will be glowing.

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Very worrying if the tyres have scrubbed in a few K :lol: The Omega does have camber issues but nothing you should detected after just a few miles. This place that did the alignment are you sure they haven't set the toe in a stupid toe-out position? Because if they have the tyre temperature will be glowing.

 

 

The garage where I had my tracking done was 'North East Tyres and Exhausts' and they used a 'Hunter's Alignment Machine' - Sadly as soon as I pulled the car onto the road the steering wheel was at a crazy angle despite them clamping it straight for the adjustment. I returned and they quickly adjusted the car. One suspects just to get the steering wheel straight and to get me out the door!

 

After 5k I noticed the inner edgde of the driver's side tyre was being scrubbed.

 

The tracking I have just had done using primitive laser equipment revealed (according to the mechanic) that the tracking was some 7mm out!

 

Following the fitting of new steering outer tie rods and new tyres I thought it best to feel the tyres after a run to see if any area was getting hot? The inner side of the front driver's tyre was much hotter than the other side after a motorway run.

 

So I need to find a trustworthy garage who can check things out and alter the geometry to the correct settings within the North East?

 

Any help or guidance would be great.

 

Andy

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  • 1 year later...

Firstly, my apologies for jumping on a thread. I have the exact same problem. After 4 brand new tyres, the drivers side inner edge 1.5 inches has no tread left where all other tyres and areas show almost no wear. My steering wheel wobbles at exactley 50 mph. When steering wheel is straight at this speed it wobbles left to right by about an inch either way. Have had new track rod ends and inners. Geometry was done over a year ago with no real changes, old school mechanics that spent more time swearing and slagging the cars set up than getting to the root of the problem.

I am located just North of Edinburgh and my main question is, will I get the fantastic service from the branch based in Leith as is offered by the main branch in Chesham?

The omega owners forum cant recommend WIM (Chesham) enough, just want assurance that the same service is reflected in sub branches.

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Hello

Yes they do work to our standard but i think you have other issues at the moment. Has the Idler arm been checked and that steering movement left/ right what is the lowest speed it does it?

Hi Tony

The lowest speed for the wobble is 50mph bang on by 55mph it disappears. Steering idler was checked on MOT in March and was good. About 3 years ago I had a 60mph knock :( Passenger front outer side of wheel and drivers inner side of wheel both hit a kerb side on with the steering lock on..... don't ask how lol.

It has never been right since then. It went to vauxhall via insurance and got new wheels along with bumper bits. I returned it a few times but they kept putting vibrations down to wheel balance. I personally suspect that something has bent or the subframe has moved. It has eaten tyres in the same fashion ever since.

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If the castor is wrong it can cause vibration, has that been measured.

It was allegedly measured when I had alignment done. Everything was reported as being withing tolerance. I really didn't trust what they were doing tbh. I also get the same wobble under heavy braking. Discs are not warped and are under a year old.

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Never properly checked over, just a lot of erms and ahhs when I give the symptoms. I am positive that it is just one thing causing the problem and in my opinion the wobble and tyre wear seem to be connected. I just don't want to keep chucking money at a problem that has never been resolved :(

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Wishbones, steering box, outer track rod ends are a good place to start.

Outer track rod ends have just been done so they are ruled out. I did develop a squeak in the steering. Added some wynns stop leak to the fluid and squeak has gone.

I shall investigate a bit further.

Do you think it is worth booking in to your place in Leith for geometry or should I try to find other issues first?

Your help is appreciated.

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No point booking in just yet because there are other issues.

 

What's bugging me is the vibration. Vibration is a frequency so it could be activated by speed since speed tunes the frequency depending on the level of imbalance, well that all said it does not explain the vibration under braking, this is either a contact friction issue or play in surrounding components.

 

My logic on the topic is destroyed since seemingly the car passed the MOT brake test, personally i would have the brakes tested again in a brake performance rolling road and at the same time watch for backward movement in the wheel during friction test.

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I think I need to find someone with a determination to find the problem. It is easily replicated so shouldn't be difficult for a competent mechanic.

Once again, thanks for your advice and hopefully it will get sorted soon. I will post back the findings.

 

Many thanks

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