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got a problem with my starlet turbo :D

 

runs fine up to 3500 rpm and reaches 1 bar boost

after 4000 rpm the boost just drops off and by 7000 rpm its at 0.5 bar

 

actuator is HKS set at 1 bar

was informed that no leaks were present

 

now generally they suffer with boost creep

 

but this seems the opposite

boost spike springs to mind, but its not boosting over what its meant to

 

on a dyno it reaches peak power and torque by 5000 rpm, and yet it will happlily rev to 7500 rpm

 

so has anyone got a clue ?

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got a problem with my starlet turbo :P

 

runs fine up to 3500 rpm and reaches 1 bar boost

after 4000 rpm the boost just drops off and by 7000 rpm its at 0.5 bar

 

actuator is HKS set at 1 bar

was informed that no leaks were present

 

now generally they suffer with boost creep

 

but this seems the opposite

boost spike springs to mind, but its not boosting over what its meant to

 

on a dyno it reaches peak power and torque by 5000 rpm, and yet it will happlily rev to 7500 rpm

 

so has anyone got a clue ?

 

Sounds like it could be the fuel cut defender starting to cut in. Do you have the car remapped through a piggy-back ECU? Maybe needs tweaking a little.

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got a problem with my starlet turbo :P

 

runs fine up to 3500 rpm and reaches 1 bar boost

after 4000 rpm the boost just drops off and by 7000 rpm its at 0.5 bar

 

actuator is HKS set at 1 bar

was informed that no leaks were present

 

now generally they suffer with boost creep

 

but this seems the opposite

boost spike springs to mind, but its not boosting over what its meant to

 

on a dyno it reaches peak power and torque by 5000 rpm, and yet it will happlily rev to 7500 rpm

 

so has anyone got a clue ?

 

Sounds like it could be the fuel cut defender starting to cut in. Do you have the car remapped through a piggy-back ECU? Maybe needs tweaking a little.

 

no fuel cut !

managed by e-manage

car is mapped to 1 bar

in an attempt to solve the problem all factory solonoids were removed

actuator is simply controlled by an in-line valve

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BTW, what were it's characteristics (SP?) before?

 

and what turbo is in your car?

 

hard to tell

when on the dyno at janspeed it was pretty much as standard, boosted to 0.6 (as per factory settings)

but due to free flowing decatted exhaust it then creeped to 1bar

reached 130 bhp and 121 torque

now reaches 125 bhp and 145 torque before the boost drops off

 

actuator is now HKS which should be set at 1bar

never really had chance to use before the latest mods so hard to tell

 

using toyota ct9 which are fairly well known to be able to take 1bar

 

 

am now thinking along the lines that if the actuator is set lower than 1 bar

and the initial boost level is just spiking, and then the actuator kicks in, all but at a lower than supposidly set level

anyone ?

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am now thinking along the lines that if the actuator is set lower than 1 bar

and the initial boost level is just spiking

 

If it were my car i'd be looking here first

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The best thing is to get it looked at properly - preferably by someone that knows what they are looking at.

 

An FCD won't cause this problem - it has no control over the boost whatsoever.

 

When it's on a dyno you can visibly check the actuator movement, audibly check all of the pneumatic connections for leaks, and conduct an exhaust back pressure test.

 

That's the best way forward Barrie, otherwise much wasted time and pulled out hair will result.

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The best thing is to get it looked at properly - preferably by someone that knows what they are looking at.

 

An FCD won't cause this problem - it has no control over the boost whatsoever.

 

When it's on a dyno you can visibly check the actuator movement, audibly check all of the pneumatic connections for leaks, and conduct an exhaust back pressure test.

 

That's the best way forward Barrie, otherwise much wasted time and pulled out hair will result.

 

i totally agree Mark

 

no FCD

 

being that it was a new HKS actuator, specified for the car, i was reluctant to believe it would be wrong

 

it was mentioned by the mechanic who had just set it up, about the lack of air available ??, i felt this was strange as the smallest part of the incoming flow is the turbo itself

 

thought i would take a look at re-routing the intake to avoid passing over the manifold area

and guess what i found ?

 

the intake pipe which was standard is made of metal, on the final connection to the turbo it has a rubber sleeve on the inside

 

this sleeve had been squashed to the effect that one half was actually across the airflow, reducing incoming air by half

the other danger is that it could have split, and theres only one way it could go, yes ! straight into the turbo

 

anyway replaced the pipework

 

and guess what !

yes full boost right through the rev range

slightly overboosting at 7000 revs

what a difference it makes

 

now i am somewhat relieved

but also not very happy with the work that was carried out

 

 

Mark

how busy is that dyno of yours ??

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The best thing is to get it looked at properly - preferably by someone that knows what they are looking at.

 

An FCD won't cause this problem - it has no control over the boost whatsoever.

 

When it's on a dyno you can visibly check the actuator movement, audibly check all of the pneumatic connections for leaks, and conduct an exhaust back pressure test.

 

That's the best way forward Barrie, otherwise much wasted time and pulled out hair will result.

 

i totally agree Mark

 

no FCD

 

being that it was a new HKS actuator, specified for the car, i was reluctant to believe it would be wrong

 

it was mentioned by the mechanic who had just set it up, about the lack of air available ??, i felt this was strange as the smallest part of the incoming flow is the turbo itself

 

thought i would take a look at re-routing the intake to avoid passing over the manifold area

and guess what i found ?

 

the intake pipe which was standard is made of metal, on the final connection to the turbo it has a rubber sleeve on the inside

 

this sleeve had been squashed to the effect that one half was actually across the airflow, reducing incoming air by half

the other danger is that it could have split, and theres only one way it could go, yes ! straight into the turbo

 

anyway replaced the pipework

 

and guess what !

yes full boost right through the rev range

slightly overboosting at 7000 revs

what a difference it makes

 

now i am somewhat relieved

but also not very happy with the work that was carried out

 

 

Mark

how busy is that dyno of yours ??

 

Glad you got it sorted Barrie - you must be well relieved.

 

It was supposed to have been professionally installed too wasn't it? Time for Mr Boot to meet Mr Bottom methinks.

 

If it's mapping validation/calibration you want done, there's approx 2 week delay at the moment.

 

Let me know if you need any help :lol:

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Get yourself over to www.toyotagtturbo.com

 

Sure I have seen countless posts related to the same problem. BTW, the standard CT9 turbo is not good at holding 1bar of boost, so it will tail off.

 

PS. I have a Glanza V :D

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Get yourself over to www.toyotagtturbo.com

 

Sure I have seen countless posts related to the same problem. BTW, the standard CT9 turbo is not good at holding 1bar of boost, so it will tail off.

 

PS. I have a Glanza V :)

 

hi gee

 

ive been a member over there for about 8 months now :) :)

was posted without any great results

hardly a common problem, and certainly not one you would expect after being so-called professionally worked on !

the ct9 is fine for holding 1bar, just not for long time use, which i dont intend to, just want to get the most out of it till it gets upgraded,

:)

 

The best thing is to get it looked at properly - preferably by someone that knows what they are looking at.

 

An FCD won't cause this problem - it has no control over the boost whatsoever.

 

When it's on a dyno you can visibly check the actuator movement, audibly check all of the pneumatic connections for leaks, and conduct an exhaust back pressure test.

 

That's the best way forward Barrie, otherwise much wasted time and pulled out hair will result.

 

i totally agree Mark

 

no FCD

 

being that it was a new HKS actuator, specified for the car, i was reluctant to believe it would be wrong

 

it was mentioned by the mechanic who had just set it up, about the lack of air available ??, i felt this was strange as the smallest part of the incoming flow is the turbo itself

 

thought i would take a look at re-routing the intake to avoid passing over the manifold area

and guess what i found ?

 

the intake pipe which was standard is made of metal, on the final connection to the turbo it has a rubber sleeve on the inside

 

this sleeve had been squashed to the effect that one half was actually across the airflow, reducing incoming air by half

the other danger is that it could have split, and theres only one way it could go, yes ! straight into the turbo

 

anyway replaced the pipework

 

and guess what !

yes full boost right through the rev range

slightly overboosting at 7000 revs

what a difference it makes

 

now i am somewhat relieved

but also not very happy with the work that was carried out

 

 

Mark

how busy is that dyno of yours ??

 

Glad you got it sorted Barrie - you must be well relieved.

 

It was supposed to have been professionally installed too wasn't it? Time for Mr Boot to meet Mr Bottom methinks.

 

If it's mapping validation/calibration you want done, there's approx 2 week delay at the moment.

 

Let me know if you need any help :)

 

will do Mark

i have your number :)

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