Gee

Tony, You have a PM. Thanks a lot for your help, very much appreciated.

Thanks Tony, really helpful. So basically, main thing to sort out is the caster, which we can atleast get even by moving the cross-member? And then further adjustment once this is done... I let him know the points of concern and hopefully I can get some free adjustment...this cost me a pretty penny

Hi Tony, A lot of this stuff goes over my head. Drury basically said everything in red, not to worry about. They could not get it in 'green' because of the lowered ride height, but the settings were still OK. No amendment of sub frame was mentioned..what does this involve? How will the castors be effecting the handeling? In regards to the chassis, everything is stock except the car runs Cusco Zero II coilovers. I have only had the car about 2 weeks, but I think the coilovers have the features: Pillowball upper mounts Adjustable shock casing Independent adjustable spring perch Stainless steel thread body Stainless steel case lock nut Stainless steel spring perch/lock nut Specially coated lower bracket If you could list some pointers on what you would change for fast road, maybe I can discuss with them and get some amendments made?

Hello all, Got myself a Honda Civic Type R (EK9) recently which was sitting too low so I got it raised and the geometry sorted out too.. The car is on Cusco Zero II coilovers.. What do you think about the below?

Fat chance of that

OSF? If that means what I think it means then...the monkey garage round here knocked my geometry out changing a CV boot! My car run's D2 coilovers.

Yeah I know! So, as above Tony, if I ask them to disconnect the lower swivel rather than the bottom strut bolts my geometry will stay intact? My car is bouncing around corners now

OK, so next time I will ask them to disconnect the lower swivel rather than the bottom strut bolts and all was will be well? Thanks for the info on wheels and here is a link to the anti lift kit: http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/Effec...0WL%20ALK_b.pdf And here is a link to my car, 900kg shell with 222bhp, which might be an idea as to why I have these silly little mods, lol http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/viewthread.php?tid=19011

Hell guys, Long time no speak! OK, here are my queries. Everytime I go to a garage to change my CV boots, they knock the geomerty out on my coilovers! Is there anyway they can avoid this for next time? I am not sure how they are doing this, is it to do with swinging the drive shaft away to remove the CV joint? I cant afford to get my coilovers setup again everytime Secondly, I had my coilovers set up once upon a time at Drury Lane as per recomendation from Tony, these were the results: Click link to enlarge: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/GeeUK/img026.jpg There seemed to be some dispute in the setting thou Tony, do you remember? Anyway, I was thinking of going back again to get them done again. The only difference now is that I have had a anti lift kit (caster?) fitted and I am on 14" rims. If I get the coilovers setup on 14", but change to 15" in the summer, will this cause drastic effects to the geomerty? Again, cant afford to setup everytime I change rims. Thanks

Not for testing purposes... Oh OK. Well my 14" rims are on and it still pulls to the left. I did do a trackday on these tyres thou i keep looking at your geo report and although i'm not happy with the - + castor positions this would not pull left... the only Geometrical possibility is the OSF Camber position being -more the the NSF... domestically the disparity would not be an issue, i feel your modified car is sensitive to the camber position and the next realistic course of action would be to re-position the OSF camber. OK. Well I guess when I go back I can advise them of ur comments and get it sorted...?

Not for testing purposes... Oh OK. Well my 14" rims are on and it still pulls to the left. I did do a trackday on these tyres thou

OK, I will test this tonight I will let you know. Tracking has been out for so long, my tyres are eaten so putting some other rims on that have tyres on. However, these are 14" and I got the tracking done with 15" rims on. Will this make a difference?

Oh right I see. So even thou they are directional tyres, it would be OK to swap them over just for the test....

The report would suggest a pull to the right... so that can be dismissed.... Move the front wheels with tyres side to side then test drive the car to see if the pull is tyre drift.... remember this is only for testing so it doesn't matter if the tyres a directional. Move the wheels side to side? You mean while stationary? I dont understand, sorry.

Also, if I let go of the wheel, it immediately pulls to the left...is there any other reason it would do this, or can you see in the settings why this has happended? What do you suggest? When I was there, it was building for the new system he is getting in, which uses camera's and makes a 3D picture of the car. He said in a couple of weeks I could get my car on there free of charge. BTW, here's some comments from my results from another person: " can't understand why they've allowed so much difference in front negative camber from left to right! Their settings in rounded figures: -0.5 / -1.2 If you were conservative on the road then you'd setup -0.5 / -0.5 or as close as possible. Conversely for spirited driving (i.e. implication I get for going to D2s) would be -1.2 / -1.2 or as close as possible. Fair difference in castor too. Ideally you'd be trying to gain as much positive castor you could for more spirited driving. It's fair to suggest you've got more benefit just having an alignment done as prior to it the toe was MILES out. This in my opinion will be why it drives so much better."

The Castor positions are in conflict! nsf +0 26' osf -022'.... nominal stock is +1deg 25'. no wonder the car feels strange... the camber positions also are in dispute... but we can discuss that later. Did the shop explain any concerns toward the Castor disparity? Man, they told me a few things...but it all went over my head! Cant remember if it was camber or caster, but they could only get the driver side so far?? If that makes any sense??

Yes I'm on D2's. Fiited my panhard rod and setup alignment, camber etc. My car was already lowered, dont think they touched the ride height. I mentioned the preload was out and I wanted the damping set for street, but I dont know if this was done actually, I got chatting and forgot! Here is my print out: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/GeeUK/img026.jpg I havent drove it much since getting it setup, but when I hold the wheel straight the car finally seems to drive in a straight line. But, would I be being stupid if I thought the car should remain in a straight line on a straight road if I took my hands of the wheel?

Well, Im going today to get my panhard rod and coilovers set up. Let you know how it goes!

Nice one. I ve got some goodies to go on myself. Like erm Apexi Power FC, TD04L turbo kit, forged pistons, rods, etc etc

Well, I havent had the change to call in yet, but after seeing these horror story threads, Im going to have to get my ass in gear! Better check over all my tyres also for wear!

Get yourself over to www.toyotagtturbo.com Sure I have seen countless posts related to the same problem. BTW, the standard CT9 turbo is not good at holding 1bar of boost, so it will tail off. PS. I have a Glanza V

Who are AON? Are there any companys other than Adrian Flux that will insure you on BHP rather than listing 2 pages full of mods? I pay £1,500 fully comp, 22 with 2 years no claims. Will be 22 with 3yrs in June. Lots of mods, most declared, I drive a Toyota Glanza V. But I have forged items on the way with new turbo, looking at 250bhp and over, so I am looking into insuring on BHP rather than mods.

Your car will lend valuable information toward others that might follow the same path (when released)...... in view of how things evolved time and time again was you surprised how the coils affected the Geom. Bit of a mission these coilovers arent they! In all honesty I dont even know what preload is, how does it work? BTW, I understand what you mean with letting them settle etc, but I dont fancy going back at cost 10 times. So...I was thinking..get them set up...settle...go back again and thats it? Do I really need to go back so many times? Obviously for perfection yes, but Im not racing driver, go on track like 3 times a year max (or planning to)...would it be worth it?

OK, got my panhard rod today. When you say they setup coilovers, do they actually setup the damping and ride height etc? If I basically say "set me up for dast road use", will they set the damping, camber, toe etc? I also what the preload set to '0', would they do this?