Tony Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 If it was just the bearing i would be shocked since a worn bearing race should have been as noisy as hell. Anyway the geo needs to be checked because if the camber has changed then it would have indirectly changed the toe. It's probable everything else is still ok so costs should be a bear minimum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgking Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 ok thanks. yes apart from the bearing grumbling and grinding like mad, there wasnt much destruction in it, it wasnt falling apart at all when tbh and i thought it would be. there was definitly resistance when trying to spin the bit that connects the wheel though. Ok well i will go get another reading of that corner then and see what they say. Hopefully theuy do it for £20 odd. Thanks vey much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 If you go back to the same place and explain the last geo was done without them noticing a knackered bearing they might trim the cost further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgking Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 thanks. sadly i dont think i can go back to ford, as the guy wasnt impressed when i was asking for the triangulation readings and he didnt know what they were. The conversation escalated quite quickly. I will try the independant tyre place that also has hunters machine, but it depends when is the next time i go to that town as its quite far away. Just hope my tyre doesnt wear too much and then i can buy 2 new whilst i am there aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Be sure to get a full geometry report that includes the castor and SAI figures...... Most places won't measure those angles because there not adjustable but they are vital and in truth part of the fee you are paying for in the test!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgking Posted March 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 thats such a good point. I will always enquire beforehand now that I know that. Thanks Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paule3d Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 I am interested in this thread so I hope you can keep us updated please. I have an ST24 Estate, which is a PITA because most suspension parts are different on them than the standard ST24. Due to old rusty parts and poor handling, I recently changed driveshafts, bearings, wishbones, ARB links and fitted 18" wheels. Now there is a clunk from both sides and wheels seem to wobble at low speed full lock turns. When driving, the handling is all over the place and feels like the wheels are pointing in different directions. I noticed one of my springs has snapped at the bottom! I have replacements (lowered) so I think I should fit these (and shocks) and put the old driveshafts back on to see if the clunk goes away (new ones were cheap parts off ebay, oops), then check all the bolts and torques at the same time as I rushed it all back together. After reading this thread I see I will need a full geometry done. First I think I will replace the rear suspension parts and rusty bolts. I think in the meantime I will do the tracking myself to see if there is any improvement so I can drive locally a bit easier. I watch this thread as the info might be useful for me! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Hello....... I take it the clunk wasn't there before the repairs?........ And that wobble, what's the lowest speed it does it at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paule3d Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 There never used to be a clunk and now I notice it on full lock (parking etc) mostly. The "wobble" is only on full lock so very low speed. I can look out the window and the wheel seems to wobble maybe a cm or inch. Its not a wobble but its like the wheel slips out sideways an inch every wheel rotation or so. Could a lot of toe in cause this? On lines in the road, potholes etc, on a normal handling car the whole car might get pulled towards the white line, in my case its like 1 wheel gets pulled off in some weird direction and the other wheel wants to go straight ahead or something. Looking at the front of the car I think I can see definite toe in. So that's something I can fix. But I have a strong suspicion there's loads more to the problems than just tracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 The toe is the problem..... Basically it's so wrong that the lock angles are incorrect hence the sideways feeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paule3d Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 OK thanks a lot. I will get the tracking done ASAP then, maybe swap the springs first. Great website, I just found it but no doubt I'll return in the future and maybe make a donation in thanks for the assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Please do and not just for the donation....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paule3d Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Thanks for that, just to report back and for anyone with similar issues, I had the tracking done and it made a huge difference, no more clunking at full lock and front end handling much better. I have however noticed that the rear end feels wobbly, after I go over white lines or cracks in the road, the rear end seems to react badly (like the front used to!) and the rear tyres seem to be scrubbing (wearing down a lot) on the outside edge! I have looked at another topic here ( this one ) and I see that the rear wheels also have a toe setting. I believe that mine must have "toe in" for the outside edge to wear so much. I will get a full geometry done one day when I have replaced more suspension parts, for now I will look to adjust the rear toe myself or just live with it. Im surprised that fitting bigger wheels has resulted in things being out of alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 I take it you only had the front toe adjusted and did not get a full geometry? The rear toe needs to be adjusted first before the front can be done so I suspect your alignment is still wrong, hence the rear tyre wear. The thrust angle is determined by adjusting the rear first, this is an imaginary centre point/line that runs from rear to front so you won't be able to adjust it yourself. In the long run it will be cheaper to get a geometry than replacing tyres cos they've worn prematurely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paule3d Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Yeah I only got the front done as it was really out. I intend to replace some rear suspension parts so was going to do that first then get full geometry done. I'll get on it ASAP before the rear tyres are completely gone!! Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 No problem mate, the Mondeo is an easy car to work on. Just watch those pinch bolts if you're changing shocks/springs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 I second that!!!...... Wire brush the exposed thread and plus-gas the thread a few days in advance..... If not and the bolt snaps it opens a whole world of hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 I did both my front ones, followed by a weekend of drilling them out! That's what happens when you don't have the right tools. I think they come out ok if you use an impact gun as it shocks them but you still need to be careful. I replaced mine with a bolt and nut, made future work so much easier and quicker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 Well i cut the bolt in the centre through the small gap in the strut guide, then heat the exposed thread to feed that out and then hammer punch the bolt side out via the now available hole opposite.... Even with the tools and heat it's a bugger of a job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paule3d Posted June 27, 2014 Report Share Posted June 27, 2014 Haha thanks for the tips but I wish I had joined this forum last year before I took the front struts off! I bought a massive breaker bar and armed with my new toy I went to work. 1 pinch bolt came out no problem, on the other one I heard a very strange sound....I didn't know what it was and figured it was the bolt coming undone so stupidly continued to apply pressure, turns out the sound was the metal warping and twisting and next thing it snapped! Oops. I spent the rest of the day/week drilling the damn thing out and went through so many drill bits....even those tough ones that people recommend, corbite or something? And yeah I have Plusgas and just bought a heat gun! I also bent my steering knuckle, holding it in a vice to remove the old bearings or something. Didnt realise I was bending the knuckle, had to replace that too as the brake calipers were out of place now Lessons learnt and its all experience towards being able to repair and modify my own car easier in the future. Using the old mondy as a learning project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 That's the beauty of forums, learning from other peoples mistakes...... We all have them from time to time but a little advice on how to deal with them speaks volumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted June 28, 2014 Report Share Posted June 28, 2014 Well i cut the bolt in the centre through the small gap in the strut guide, then heat the exposed thread to feed that out and then hammer punch the bolt side out via the now available hole opposite.... Even with the tools and heat it's a bugger of a job. I did that with the rear ones after breaking the car, still need to drill the threaded end of the bolt out, both snapped! The knuckles are worthless but I need to get the ABS sensors out and they're known for snapping as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 29, 2014 Report Share Posted June 29, 2014 You know the only nearly fail safe way i found in the end not to snap the bolts ( most times ) was thermal shock?.... Heat the cast around the bolt then cool it with plus-gas, do this a few times and the hold releases ( most times ) but even then if it does snap then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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