jon

I'm not the bones... well at least I don't think we're related Dad's name is John Bones....... How does it par Tony... I am your father... </starwars>

I've got the old Ez cams. I think the front will be ok, but the rears will need them as there's no camber adjustment on the topmounts. BTW, I'll probably be bringing a fair bit of photography equipment to document it all

I'm not the bones... well at least I don't think we're related

Which is why it is quite funny. It's ok to laugh at avoidable, self inflicted misfortune! He just ran out of talent. Don't they charge you £1000 for every meter of armco damaged then something insane for every minute of track closure?

http://www.autoblog.com/2009/10/26/video-b...m-judges-all-a/ That man has skills!

Had my first drive on these today - wow. It's really made me realise just how screwed the old ones were. I've actually taken the ez cam's out for now as I want to see on Saturday where the car is without them. Don't worry, I'll be bringing them with me just in case as i know you love them Actually, do you think it's time i bought a new set? They've been in that car for years (though haven't done that many miles.)

Here are some pictures as requested http://picasaweb.google.com/jonathanbenson...acingCoilovers# Tony, am I right in thinking that modifying the topmount (left) is ok like this? Gives me more camber. The unit on the right shows how they were setup:

I'll let Tony tell you, but rest assured my car will come out lighter than it went in. He always tells me he's doing me a favour by making it faster.

Thanks Tony, excited about the 31st I went to use the mr2 over the weekend and found a puddle of coolant on the driveway. Apparently when I had the coolant changed last month the bleed nipple wasn't done up tight enough. I've put 3 litres of coolant in so far!! Anyone else that wants to come along to say hello it would be good to put some faces to names.

Hehe a bit tired Tony? The over all weight is the same but the sprung vs unsprung weight ratio changes as the damper and all the heavy oil are attached to the body not the wheel hub assembly which lowers the unsprung weight. This means the wheel can track faster across bumps because there's less weight to move. To everyone else, Tony will obviously be deciding the date but it will likely be an early Saturday morning. Everyone's welcome. Tony, over to you

It goes ok Pop down to the centre when i'm in with tony and have ago if you like.

Yeah, apex are the same as BC. As it's a track car ( http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/garage.php?mo...le&CID=1268 ) noise isn't a real concern. I'll certainly give them the once over to make sure they're right.

Yes they're for the MR2 The car won't look any different but the handling will certainly be improved upon no end once Tony has had his 5 minutes with it!

Mind you don't hit 88mph, you might find yourself in 1964 (which is possibly the last time the car was washed hehe)

And if I'm honest, I can't wait to fit them. My current Tien HA's have served me well, but one of them has been blown for a long time. Being inverted they reduce unsprung weight and quite frankly, look cool Will be seeing you soon Tony. This is what I ended up with: http://www.bc-racing.co.uk/rm-series-coilovers.asp

That's a good point actually...so having the axle stands on the next notch would probably be the same height as driving it on ramps, just the later is easier (supposedly) to do? I'm thinking a better jack would be better then and get more use I'm 100% sure a jack and axle stands will get more use and be more flexible than bloody annoying ramps!

Yes but when I jack my car up to get axle stands underneath I never get the wheel more than a couple of inches off the ground so I thought using those ramps might get it abit higher. My jack does need topping up with oil though so it would go higher than that, maybe I should get a better one. Was jacking the car up on a brick ok, I would've thought the jack had more chance of sliding off that? Those ramps on ebay look brilliant, bet they go for alot more £££ though - Here's the link Remember jacking the car up and having the wheel only a couple of cm off the ground means the suspension is uncompressed. I'm not sure about your car but that's a lot of travel you wouldn't have if the car was on ramps with the suspension settled meaning the floor height isn't actually that different. I've never got a car on the ramps because i've always caught a bumper. Even my first car (MG ZR) wouldn't go.

I bought a set, couldn't get any of my cars on them so never used them. Trolley jack + axle stands win every time.

Those r35's are really growing on me. Did you peek to see what the chassis adjustment is like?

I'll try and pick up a set of adjustable ones before my visit then Am I being thick or do I really need to use pliers to adjust this trackrod? I've loosened off the 19mm locking nut but there's no way of getting a spanner to hold on the track rod, the only thin i can think of is a pliers which seems a little mad! Oh, and in your vast experience of MR2s, how many turns approximately for about 1/12 of LHD correction

You were always going to get it right Tony I must get some new suspension, then we can have it on your rig and see how badly I've bent the chassis

Now I'm pretty sure I already know the answer but I thought it would be 'fun' to put it out there (and confirm my thinking) I've hit a curb in my car and now I have visible toe OUT. The steering wheel has gone from being centred to having a bit of left turn in to keep the car going straight ahead. Now before this goes on Tony's geo machine I want to tweak this ROUGHLY back into spec myself as there's still suspension issues that need sorting and anything is better than the visible toe out there is at the moment. So the conundrum is: Which track rod end needs adjusting and which way?

I actually really liked the 040. IF you can live with a noisy hard ride and don't mind taking it easy in the wet they offer excellent feedback. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/Bridg...ngterm-Test.htm

Looks like underinflation caused the sidewall to overheat. IF you don't care for your tyres they won't care for you.

You need to ask yourself would you put 2 wooden cart wheels on the back and 2 normal tyres on the front of your car? The difference a good snow tyre makes in cold / icy / snowy conditions is MASSIVE. If you are only going to put them on one end of the car you've a simple choice to make: If you want to see the tree you're about to hit put the snow tyres on the rear and understeer into the tree. If you don't want to see the tree, put the snow tyres on the front and oversteer into the tree. Alternatively buy another 2 and put them on your normal wheels if you have to. A winter tyre (which is what I expect you have instead of a true snow tyre) will usually out perform a normal road tyre in any condition cooler than a few degrees.