GamithUK

That looks like double wishbone suspension, which is a much better system than the cheaper macpherson strut for keeping the wheel aligned to the road. What would be interesting is seeing what the car is doing - must be some form of rallying I would think, especially with all those sharp tuns. ttfn

Final stage - the ship who sang et al. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ship_Who_Sang) it's only a matter of time I think, if stem cells can't fix the issue(s) then this sort of enhancement is another option.

May you live in interesting times... The magnetic ones - who do the brakes work? The three-in-ones - how do they keep from warping into their neighbours The multi-foot ones - goodbye to punctures, but what's the grip like? The profile changing ones - what happens when you need to suddenly brake when you're in fuel efficiency mode? I can't see these in reality, but it's good that people are thinking of alternatives until we all have hover-cars. ttfn

Hopefully he'll learn from that.

If you have some spare time go here: http://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/station/main/index.html click on 'Interactive Space Station Reference Guide' in the lower-right of the page for a tour you can take yourself. For a fairly simple structure there is a lot to it - just be glad it's all on one level. I look forward to when we have a Stanford torus (http://www.nss.org/settlement/space/stanfordtorus.htm) or similar. ttfn

Just as long as we can't do brain transplants....

Mmm - healthy:

'Watch this!' - the mating call of the idiot. ttfn

What I actually use is the specialist Renault tool - it cost more but gets as many answers as it's possible to get. My only 'concern' is the fact that the software needs a little 'hack' before it can be used. so I suspect the item may not be entirely legal, though I must admit that my sympathies are not with the motor manufacturer since their attempt at a monopoly means I'm forced to pay over the odds for inferior work (I was told that they couldn't do any alignment work since they couldn't undo the track-rod adjuster - which when WIM looked was not an issue) which does not endear me to them.

Oh very funny (sod = earth = mud). A very determined pilot and a long runway - though I can't help but feel that in this country the airline would have insisted the runway was cleared before take off. I don't know whether the Russians take things like this for granted, are just plain ignorant, clever or just so used to it that it all seems normal to them. I'd hate to see what a landing there would be like.

The software on CDs is a collection of open-source programs created by world+dog to access the OBD protocol - a lot of the programs will do the same things (the easy stuff such as rev counting, engine temp etc.) so after trying a few you will see much the same stuff. I found that you need to look through a few until you find one that has the combination of functions that you are actually after. What I found is that a car's systems will be divided into different sections: engine, gearbox, fuel, ignition, ABS and so on - pretty much anything will give the standards based stuff - engine and fuel/ ignition, but if your problem lies elsewhere you need to do some serious research to make sure you're not wasting money. For my Scenic I decided to get a tool specifically for Renaults since there is a basic 'big red button' that runs every test for that model of car. You out in the VIN, select the model and away it goes. With that you need a laptop as well to run the software. My advice is to find a forum that talks about your particular model(s) and ask there unless your problem is pretty basic in which case a basic tester will do the trick and your choice of cheap handheld or laptop based solution (costs more but does more) comes down to personal choice. If you wanted a straight-forward solution that does a lot of things then I would recommend a cheap laptop and some diagnostic software though you will need to read the small print on the advert and make sure it suits you - age of car, petrol/ diesel, systems required etc. will vary.

This one any better?

Part-worn is one thing - damaged is another. If the michelin was a near-side I suspect it was kerbed?

I hope she appreciates the thought and effort - have you looked into insurance yet?

I wonder how this happened:

Especially handy of you have a silver car :-)

Its because the explosion is not just at the tanker, but from the surrounding air/gas combination exploding as well. I bet it would have looked very impressive from above - you can see this effect very well here at about 30 seconds in, and again .

Looks as though the gas expanded a fair way before exploding - so a fuel-air explosive in effect, there is another view

My scenic is still not for sale - sorry. What about a Caterham? Subaru? I suppose the main question is what are you after? track day car? posing? drive to work & shopping but in a powerful car? 4 wheel drive? just you and passenger or will you need 5 seats? Any idea yet or are you waiting for the spark to ignite your interest? ttfn

yep - that looked like it hurt! I hope she is Ok.

Nice bush :-) Artworks no bad either

>want to leave it for the rest of the week and see how far the battery voltage drops. That sounds like a plan, but expect it to be around 9v in a week. If you try the same with the battery disconnected you will see if the battery is losing the charge by itself or not - if it's still at 12v then you know the battery is Ok (enough). Dropping from 12.6 to 12.27 in a day and a half doesn't sound like much, but it might be good to try it every 24 hours and keep a log: Day Reading (v) Drop (v) Sunday (eve) 12.6 Monday 12.49 0.11 Tuesday 12.38 0.11 Wednesday 12.27 0.11 Thursday 12.16 0.11 Friday 12.05 0.11 Saturday 11.94 0.11 Sunday 11.83 0.11 Monday 11.72 0.11 I just knocked this up from the figures you gave above - if the drop continues at the rate indicated then a weeks drop should equate to only a little under 12v, which doesn't sound too bad, but it could be that the drop accelerates with time, that my reading time estimates are wrong or maybe some other factor is at play - for instance maybe the glovebox light isn't on now :-) ttfn

Looks as though the rear doors have been altered already :-)

That's what I have heard, yes, and the obvious thing to do its to charge the battery back up to 12v and try again - if the alternator is still giving only 13v then I would say the alternator needs a serious look at since I'm sure that can't be a high enough output to be effective. Have you put the multimeter on the battery with the engine off, and taken several readings? say every 5 mins for half and hour or so? that would give an indication of a drain - especially if you then disconnect the battery and see if it stops. ttfn