Mat

would have been separated vertically though which is ok

wow, a simple and effective solution...which Brains thought of that...... will be interesting to see how much of the wheel lift you can eliminate

the place is phenomenal, and so is Tony, i have to thank him for waiting for me friday to come up and look over the truck after fitting new steering rod ends..... the unit is gonna be a Gem , once finished off and upto full working steam.... well done and thank you Tony (Brilliant coffee)

manifolds look nice

if you want to fit spacers, at best fit bolt on spacers

ah right, well that is exactly what my japsai braces attached to

erm, you cant really brace the un-srung part of the car, so id say the sprung part however in relation to the car as a whole, (and this is my opnion, and depending on Use) if a car is to be tracked, then the route for suspension modification in my eyes should encompass the following changes. 1) anti roll bars (to what setting is personal choice, i dont like the " well mike has these type fitted, so i will aswell"....type peeps, if there is a choice test the options) 2) uprated lowered springs, at best coilovers, 3) poly bush, where ever you can, the improvement is noticable 4) strut braces, im subjective on these, on the front yes, rear, i suppose, but different chassis act differently 5) chassis braces, if you can get them, do so, certainly on the larger saloons, the improvement is immediate 5+) subframe bracing, if you can get it, get it, ive got it but cant tell a difference, but then again.....everything is braced Finally..... 6) Roll cage.....for obvious safety reasons, if your going to track your car, GET ONE, but the flex it removes from the car is unbelivable

yes, we produce them now in little production run for our Russian altezza-club. and it's only a little part of our work your bars looks good, my pictures of a bar not painted yet. also you use square profile, we deside to use trumpet profile, it's more lightweight with the same stifness effect. and your bar is too low as i see, also if you have a lowered car - how are you driving on a roads ? maybe your car is only for track use, but how others who install them ? tube have more torsional stiffness, so i think what stab bar must be made from tube, as they always are/ the bars are no lower than the TRD bars, the car these are fitted to was very low, i designed a second bar that gave 20mm more clearence but there are around 8 sets of these braces out there, in the UK, and peeps seems happy with them on there road cars i thought yours was solid bar, hollow bar/tube...same thing, but if they work, excellent, thats the most important thing regards weight the bars are made from Alusteel,and Hollow, they are also tube in construction, Alusteel is actually light for the material qty used in comparison to mild steel/carbon steel

hollow bar would have been better, and if it was oval, it has more strength, and not as heavy hears the ones i made

yes, change it, if the joint separates, you wont be a happy bunny

if its split change it.....simple as

ARB IS the best mod you ca do, i also strongly recomend the chassis braces, if you push the car a fair bit on track. obviously the Japsai braces i made a few years back, although Industrial in there manufacture, were by far the stiffest braces on the market

ARB choice is really that, what works for one driver, may not for another, as ive said previously, i run TRD yellows, the only change i may make to this is running with the Cusco prodrift rear bar at some point. ive used TTE, TRD and cusco on the previous car and ended up choosing the TRD yellow with the white car. however if i was to choose between the 2 you have the option off i would go with the Hotchkis as they have some element of adjustability for drifting ideally you want a soft bar on the front, and a hard bar on the rear, its feesable to run a std bar on the front, and uprated on the rear(something worth experimenting with) but this really all depends on many other suspension settings, and the available power at your right foot

hi Tony the current trailer tyres are 165/70/14..........not 13's

Yep i think there are... not sure about 5 though. If i recall you need 155/13.. Or if i have a set 560/13 6ply.... Good news is this batch came from a company who specialize in Avon, as we know they support van/ trailer/ commercial will speak when i get back off my trip.....cheers

any good trailer tyres tony......well about 5 really

adjustable links are something that has come over from the track racing cars. if a track is predominately say a left hander (nascar) you can preload the ARB and has been stated, they allow the car after being lowered to have the links shortened

The JIL standard is a small logo placed in the design of automotive alloy wheels during the casting process to certify that they have been passed by Japanese Authorities to approve them for sale in the Japanese market the letters JIL mean Japan Institute of Labour

would it not be safer to get new forks, i had a Bandit 600 that did the same thing, it ended up being the lock stop was bent on one side allowing more angle

i dont think you will need 8.5 on the front i think a good staggered set up , and the one i originally ran on the monster with no problems, even with all its power and your car is lighter, my set up was.... 7.5 x 18 front with 225/40 18 8.5 x 18 rear with 255/35 18

what car are they for?

nope, Molybedumeumeumeuemeuem grease in spray form drys, erm......"dry", seals the bearing and prevents water and moisture ingress, but remains, liquid enough to add lubrication and allow movement

i spray molybelodeumeumemumeum grease on them

charge cooled aswell......

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