alnug

Tony!...you have pm!......I'm really slacking when it comes to these things now lol.

this looks like a nightmare :glare:

this i agree with ..it all depends how passionate you are and how much you are willing to push!! as well as a certain amount of luck!..best of luck

cheers..you know whos that is.... :glare:

just to start off the pics. will get more up soon..

just want to add my thanks to Tony as well and from all the other members from the Accord Owners Club. I didn't get my car on the ramp otherwise you could have shown the lot about the camber adjusters as well as the coilovers and other cosmetic and under the surface mods I 've got on mine, but to be fair I knew you were knackered ..well so was I and it was a long day and really i wanted the other members to get on the ramp and have their car's seen to since I know mine is in good knick . The club is getting together some donations for you for the day...I knew you guys don't like accepting this sort of thing , but the members felt this was the only decent thing to do! Where else would be open on a Sunday and provide food, knowledge and a HUGE LCD TV and not ask for anything in return . I'm sure you'll be seeing more of our members in the future. On behalf of the club I have to say a HUGE thanks to you Tony and Mark and the little boy for being so patient with us lot and parting some knowledge to us. I'm sure pictures are going to be popping up on the club and I'll get some nice ones on here to be viewed all in all the day was nice with VERY LITTLE RAIN!!!! and the sun even came out!

hey tony.....sorry to hear of this. It does look like the lip is mainly for cosmetic reasons and hence the shear....could the Boss not be adapted to use a Haweka centring system that holds through the bolt holes? It's only an issue when you've got a raised thin wall like you have on that wheel. Is it just to raise the centre cap above the bolt face? Cannot see why it's designed that way. On a normal square shoulder you'd never have a problem, even if they're magnesium alloy. Seemingly it's nothing more than a cosmetic "stylistic" centre cap holder..... Issue i have is there's no streagnth in the design since it's cosmetic. Catch 22 for me but a learning curve since the BOSS has a unique "grasp" of the wheels. Live and learn comes to mind but a heads up from the manafaturure would have been nice!!

sounds like a good turnout..shame about the cars ....just hoping ours will be just as fun ...without the damaged cars that is.....

i think there maybe a few issues here the CV joint maybe out and also the coil. First off..are you SURE that they even changed the coil?? is there any accident damage? It seems that with the multiple of problems with the car I wouldn't feel confident on driving it with the family for the 300 miles if it did happen to break down you're going to be a long way from home...plus you've got the wife and kids to worry about.

short and sweet...cheers Tony

Another thing you could try is maybe swap your tyres front to back to see if anything changes on the pulling front..it could be the tyres...

cheers tony for the reply...but i was just wondering how the bottom end of the piston is held into the shock body? would it be a one peice construction like a piston of a car or would it be a piston rod with a larger piston at the bottom of it held on by a nut or other fixing? my concern when i was doing it was..what if it is a rod with a piston held onto the bottom with a nut or similar...if the spring tension was holding the piston at an end stop or similar (due to full extention) then what if winding the rod around would unseat this lower nut on the piston ...am i thinking about this correctly or am i just worrying myself ...never taken apart a coilover or damper before so i maybe barking up the wrong tree.... oh and thanks for the reply Tony!

Thought I’d use some of my WIM gold privileges and ask for some advice.  Just thought I’d stick it in this forum Anyway Tony, as you know I recently aquired some Tein comfort sport coilovers, They came preassembled with the spring and upper mounts in place already and basically ready to fit onto the car. You can see a pic of them here http://www.phpbber.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php...um=sp4rks#23617 Now I have had conflicting advice….some people say to wind the coilover to the top since adjust lower is easier that going higher (I guess true since you’re pushing WITH the spring instead of against it) But as I was winding it up….since the spring is in contact with the upper mount and hence the piston it rotated the upper mount (piston) with the winding motion……I stopped after 3mm of this because it didn’t feel it was right….so I wound it back… My question is with rotating the piston with the spring could I have done something to the piston?? The suspension is on the car now and is riding fine with no noises etc…but just thought it’s useful to get some feedback….

just wanted to add..you said it's not a smooth wear.....what dampers did they fit the springs to and how old were they? It's actually quite easy to find whether the bushes are at fault...with a machine such as the Hunter ones it's very easy to set up the equipment (unlike some other four wheel alignment machines!)...basically do the alignment and then drive off and drive back on and read the specs again...if the bushings are out somewhere it should show....correct Tony?......it's machines such as this that make it possible to diagnose these things quickly in my view.....that is assuming that the Hunter has great repeatability :ph34r_anim: which i no doubt it does!

Good luck on the opening Tony!

Tony..what happened to the Hunter GSP9700 road force balancer?

I also think that sounds a bit dangerous..although i know people who have used it!! The thing is in a normal car with wallowy suspension pumping tyres to around 45psi you may not feel that much more harsh compared to 35psi say...HOWEVER once you go with a more firm and sporty suspension the difference is quite apparent. Just as an example I run firmer lower sports suspension on my car a difference of 2 psi and the ride changes 34.5psi and it feels the tyre contact with the road when turning is too stiff and ride also suffers...at 33psi ride is more subtle and steering feel is better...... Now doing the same thing on a standard car running standard soft suspension i feel absolutely no difference. What i'm trying to say is that upping the psi to extreme amounts makes your suspension work a LOT harder even though you probably don't feel it much with standard suspension....you also need to think about things such as road imperfections....hitting one at the wrong speed with such a rigid tyre is asking for trouble...

no mention of a 2006 Honda Accord type-S in that list

subframe bent ...really sad to hear this......if it was bad enough to bend it then it would have to be replaced as a start.....personally i think insurance is the way to go with this and I'd agree that replacing all bits involved will be the best solution otherwise you'll be forever chasing problems....it doesn't sound cheap either A bang that hard could have caused other hidden damage too such as the steering rack...oh god i don't want to think......

from what i see the Toe out and camber at front would contribute to the inner tyre wear, thing is with these things..the reading is only as good as the setup involved....they also didn't seem to meaure the caster? It also seems they didn't bother setting the right rear toe to centre spec either....(really annoys me when people have the equipment and don't even set things properly! to what's specified). This means that the thrust angle is off (ideally should be close to 0)..basically means you have rear axle steer.....is your steering straight? I'm also seeing -1*43' for right rear camber..is this a typo?? (Is there no rear camber adjustment for the IS?) I'm not quite sure what to think really.....by not adjusting the rear toe properly basically your front alignment numbers even if they are all green are inaccurate............. Anyway it would have been a good excercise to see if they could verify the readings by letting you drive off then on again to see if they have truely set it....

sorry to hear that...you don't seem to have much luck with contractors do you ...as for borrow out bits of kit for people on the job.....you want to stay WELLL clear of that Tony.....it can all too easily turn round and bite you in the ass if anything happens while they are working on equipment that you lent them....best let them work with their own equipment so you are clear of any liability issues.....it's a sad world we live in now....

This is sad...is this from a business side of things? or does that mean they will not be participating in the forum as well on a social business?

just one question that has not been asked yet....how many miles do you have on them? they need a few hundred miles to get worn in before they are good.........i take it there are a lot of people you don't go back to

Hey all just a bit of experience....even if you do mark the column and the steering uses splines...it is still possible for the steering wheel to be off centre when it goes back on...there is a slight bit of movement possible when tightening the nut onto the splines......

...and i take it you do this 'specialist' calibration Tony