Dan Posted May 28, 2010 Report Share Posted May 28, 2010 Have been having some trouble with car lately Seized caliper so i upgraded fronts to nice set of AP racing kit Goodyear tyres were wearing unevenly due to me never getting the alignment done since i bought it so i bought new set of Enkei wheels and got a new set of Vredestein tyres while i was at it! Got the wheels balanced and 4 wheel alignment sorted locally Got lower wishbone bushings replaced as they were torn and i thought this was the main cause of the vibration So vibration through the steering on anything over 80kmh on the motorway and also under braking it gets worse. I'm now at a loss as to what it could be. Is there anything else i can check for? Not really any good specialists in this Ireland that would be as good as WIM! And to make matters worse someone side swiped me last week, wrecking drivers rear wheel, wheel bearing and rear trailing arm, all getting fixed next week. So any of the changes made cause this vibration or any other area's i should check. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 29, 2010 Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 Are the wheels hub centric meaning should they have spigot rings, also do you have spacers fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 Are the wheels hub centric meaning should they have spigot rings, also do you have spacers fitted? not sure about the spigot rings Tony, i can find out. No spacers on these wheels i was toying with theat idea only on the smaller 17" Rota's i had on previously Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 29, 2010 Report Share Posted May 29, 2010 We need to go back to basics.... Let's assume the wheels are not hub centric! In this case you need to jack up the vehicle and spin the wheel and watch if there's "up/ down" movement.... Obviously the wheel/ tyre should spin without vertical variation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2010 We need to go back to basics.... Let's assume the wheels are not hub centric! In this case you need to jack up the vehicle and spin the wheel and watch if there's "up/ down" movement.... Obviously the wheel/ tyre should spin without vertical variation. So wheels are hub centric so no need for spigot rings, they are made specially for Subaru fitment. So ruling that out what else could i check maybe? Have you ever worked with any places in Ireland that you would recommend for alignment and that? i just want to make sure the place im leaving the car knows what they are doing. Im just looking for an excuse to go over to UK so i can drive the car to WIM!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 1, 2010 Report Share Posted June 1, 2010 I have a solution for the balancing, what i don't like is the fact it's amplified under braking, in truth that's another trigger that needs investigating, either in the brakes themselves or the drive flange? Or even the wishbone bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2010 I have a solution for the balancing, what i don't like is the fact it's amplified under braking, in truth that's another trigger that needs investigating, either in the brakes themselves or the drive flange? Or even the wishbone bushings. well wishbone bushings were replaced a few weeks ago as i thought that was the cause of vibration increasing under braking but it didnt change anything. So how likely is it that its a problem with either the new AP calipers or discs? unless its 2 seperate problems like unbalanced wheels and brake problem! can wait to get the car sorted properly so i can get some confidence back in the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 1, 2010 Report Share Posted June 1, 2010 The drive flange needs to be checked, this is the plate the disc sits against. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2010 The drive flange needs to be checked, this is the plate the disc sits against. thanks for info Tony, ill get it looked at. what exactly could go wrong with that plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 The drive flange needs to be checked, this is the plate the disc sits against. thanks for info Tony, ill get it looked at. what exactly could go wrong with that plate? They can buckle very slightly, you need to remove the disc and put a straight edge on the flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 The drive flange needs to be checked, this is the plate the disc sits against. thanks for info Tony, ill get it looked at. what exactly could go wrong with that plate? They can buckle very slightly, you need to remove the disc and put a straight edge on the flange. is it the stone guard plate you talking about in the diagram below ? Or is it part of the wheel bearing/hub? sorry for all the questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 It's not shown in that picture...... Basically it the part behind the disc with the wheel studs in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 It's not shown in that picture...... Basically it the part behind the disc with the wheel studs in it. were getting close. so the plate on the wheel bearing? Numbered 4 in the above diagram? perhaps this was damaged when i had the old caliper seizing once or twice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Drive flange is the part that number one goes into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazz33 Posted June 2, 2010 Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Sounds like the same problem i had with my Lexus....If you remember Tony i had the same problem with my IS200 my NSF drive flange/hub was slightly warped and had no end of anoying vibration through the car at speed and under braking.....Getting a new one sorted the vibrations and the problem out... Dan did you clean the drive flange/hub before you put the new AP discs on..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2010 Sounds like the same problem i had with my Lexus....If you remember Tony i had the same problem with my IS200 my NSF drive flange/hub was slightly warped and had no end of anoying vibration through the car at speed and under braking.....Getting a new one sorted the vibrations and the problem out... Dan did you clean the drive flange/hub before you put the new AP discs on..? The hub comes as one part so im not sure how easily i can just replace the drive flange. Ill take of the disc over the weekend, clean and check for visble damage. Thanks for the help guys! really wish we had a place as good as WIM in Ireland! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 3, 2010 Report Share Posted June 3, 2010 Picture shown is the rear but the flange either bolts on or needs to be pulled through the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Picture shown is the rear but the flange either bolts on or needs to be pulled through the bearing. So still havent managed to get around to getting this sorted yet, but came across this interesting article that i found useful and will be looking at cleaning the hub and disc bell over the weekend. Brake judder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 Interesting article...... Give it a go, you have nothing to lose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 Picture shown is the rear but the flange either bolts on or needs to be pulled through the bearing. So still havent managed to get around to getting this sorted yet, but came across this interesting article that i found useful and will be looking at cleaning the hub and disc bell over the weekend. Brake judder cleaned passenger side front hub yesterday, quite a bit of rust on both hub plate and rear of disc bell. no noticeable improvement. I picked up a brand new wheel hub at a great price from Subaru dealer so i will be replacing front drivers side tomorrow(one that had seized caliper). fingers crossed that solves my issue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 Fingers are crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 Fingers are crossed. so managed to swap the hub this evening, tough job to get the hub but off! took about 2 hours in total but handy enough job to do once you have all the right tools, drove the car home from work and it seems like this has solved the brake shudder issues i was getting, only a short drive home up the motorway, but initial reports are that the old hub was knackered, no visible signs of damage on it. You cannot buy the wheel bearing seperately so it all comes as one unit, hub and bearing Out with the old: in with the new: You can tell they have changed th hub design since the car was first manufactured so hopefully i wont need to replace them again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 Excellent news..... In truth a sealed unit is easier to work but the cost is somewhat disturbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted July 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 Excellent news..... In truth a sealed unit is easier to work but the cost is somewhat disturbing. wasnt too expensive, got the hub unit for 120 euro. So while i have gotten rid of the brake shudder, i'm still get a bit off shudder through steering wheel on motorways around 100kmh+ I'll try get the wheels balanced again and see does that help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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