Waz Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi, I read this post ; link and thought of me! My roadster was leaning toward front RHS (car-line), as a result the rear LHS seemed very high. Investigating, we thought it was a combination of damaged/lazy spring and worn out shocks, and found a very leaky shock requiring replacement. So, long story short, we fitted a set of KONI STR.T in order that it would have a matched set. Problem not solved on ride height, but all other bouncy/roll issues much improved. Is it likely that it needs the above post mentioned camber set-up afresh? We wondered if the car has been bumped hard on the Front RHS and the adjustments are all too high, as when we lift the car very gently by the FRHS wing, it levels out perfectly. Rides well and does not pull on brake/decelerate on engine. measurements; ___L__R___ F 305 290 R 340 310 Thanks in Advance, Waz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi Waz Camber position can raise or lower the 5 as much a 20mm each corner,so a calibration check/adjust is your next move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waz Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi WazCamber position can raise or lower the 5 as much a 20mm each corner,so a calibration check/adjust is your next move. Hi Tony, Thanks for that, I'll try the settings in the Enthusiast's manual based on the LHS ride height. If I'm lucky it will fall into a respectable level, but I think my enthusiasm for getting this car nicely set up, I'd like to pay WIM a visit in the near future, the mx5oc talk in very high regard! Bit of a travel up from Bognor, but I'm told it's worth it! Waz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 What sort of positions are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janey Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 What sort of positions are they? Have a feeling Waz maybe talking about the 'Lanny' settings - similar to the Nurburgring settings you originally did on mine but a little less 'sticky' if I remember correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waz Posted May 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 What sort of positions are they? Have a feeling Waz maybe talking about the 'Lanny' settings - similar to the Nurburgring settings you originally did on mine but a little less 'sticky' if I remember correctly I was referring to the Rod Grainger's manual, it won't be particularly sporty, but a general position for getting a standard position to start from. e.g. 328-337mm -0deg 20min. 338-347mm 0deg 03min 348-357mm 0deg 24min and so on. but of course with my car already lower than that, I'll have to try and re-create the lowest setting before I know what's possible. in fact - those must be for standard kit, mine being an allegedly -35mm kit, I should extrapolate; 318-327mm -0deg 39min 308-317mm -1deg 0min 298-307mm -1deg 23min 288-297mm -1deg 44min or is taking a linear view a mistake? main thing is to get both sides the same and establish the car body is straight. I may just measure the higher side and try to reproduce it on the other. What are the Lanny settings? is that suitable for a fast-road application, or a bit more sporty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 The Lanny settings are quite dated in my opinion........ Google the wim fast-road settings and read what drivers think of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIH Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 do they really recommend postove camber on the front with the taller trim levels ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 do they really recommend postove camber on the front with the taller trim levels ? Yep... The MK1 and MK2 to some extent had very fluid suspension travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIH Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 wow my typing really sucks sometimes heh. what the hell is "postove camber" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 wow my typing really sucks sometimes heh. what the hell is "postove camber" ? We knew what you meanted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waz Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 wow my typing really sucks sometimes heh. what the hell is "postove camber" ? We knew what you meanted What's the standard geo set-up cost to do? I don't think I have the patience to use my dad's plumb-line and mirrors/vernier wood-burning system! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 wow my typing really sucks sometimes heh. what the hell is "postove camber" ? We knew what you meanted What's the standard geo set-up cost to do? I don't think I have the patience to use my dad's plumb-line and mirrors/vernier wood-burning system! On the 5 chassis £95+ vat to whatever format you want, fast-road, track, drift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waz Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 <snip> On the 5 chassis £95+ vat to whatever format you want, fast-road, track, drift. Hi again, some additional things I'd like to check before I commence some major undertaking, Can the L/R height problem I'm seeing initially be affected by worn/damaged ARB or drop links? I'm assuming if they aren't right, then the car will be in a false state of pre-load towards rolling one side. I haven't tried to measure these components, mainly because I'm not sure where to start. If I remove both front drop-links and assess the static position of the car will this tell me what I need to know? (while I'm there, I can assess the condition of the bushings in them) Thanks again for the help, I think after all of this I will need WIM's services for a fast-road set-up, but I'd hate to make the journey from Bognor to find out I'm in Horror of the Week!! Warren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Other than due to a crash i've never seen a bent ARB, plus due to the preload i think you really would know. Nevertheless it's an easy test to disconnect them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waz Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Other than due to a crash i've never seen a bent ARB, plus due to the preload i think you really would know. Nevertheless it's an easy test to disconnect them. I was expecting either some pillock has fitted an incorrect drop-link, making unequal lengths side to side, or really knackered bushes allowing uneven at-rest position. There are some minor clonks at slow speed on uneven roads near my house, but on the checking we did when replacing all four shocks and springs (koni str.t) we didn't find anything really alarming. I expect your camber suggestion +/-20mm depending on setting could well be the culprit, but I'd be kicking myself for missing a really basic dimensional fault. There is evidence of the main box section under the driver's side having a minor flattening, but no other damage is evident like if there was a front corner shunt (no twisted/kinked parts behind the bumper and so on). So hopefully the worst it's seen before I had it was a badly navigated verge/parking manoeuvre. Of course this could have included dropping the FR wheel in a pothole and so angles all affected? Have I just talked myself into a full Geo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Yes you have I often see crushed chassis rails, this is no indication the cars been involved in anything suspicious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIH Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 those fork lift trucks again Tony ? Could ARB droplinks really cause a ride-height issue btw ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 those fork lift trucks again Tony ? Could ARB droplinks really cause a ride-height issue btw ? Yep "pesky forklifts"...... As for the DL and RH no ..... the ARB is at rest when the cars stationary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waz Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 those fork lift trucks again Tony ? Could ARB droplinks really cause a ride-height issue btw ? Yep "pesky forklifts"...... As for the DL and RH no ..... the ARB is at rest when the cars stationary. Although mine does have longdituninal scrape-marks on the box, side I'd assumed "hedging and ditching" (as my Dad calls it) had occurred. Maybe it was Forklift 1st and speedbump later? Interesting about the DL's, I recognised that the suspension hung equal when chassis supported on axle stands during the shock/spring fit, but sits unequal on it's wheels. Will repeat this test, with and without the DL's connected just to confirm no change and then it's full steam on the camber adjustment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hms Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 For interest, the chassis rails are not structural, which is why they take damage so easily, although at either end of the rail is a piece where it is double skinned and has the strength that they can be used to support the car on axle stands. Hedging and ditching, if it's been lowered more likely cuplrit is sleeping bloody policemen! h Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIH Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Tony told me that awhile ago and I could hardly believe it. How can chassis rails not be structual ? Where's the strength ? The sills ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hms Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 The sills are quite complicated structures, braced internally. Don't know what the chassis rails are for, additional rigididty, front to rear? There are chassis rails available which bolt over the chassis rails to give exdtra rigidity (P5, Flyin Miata.) h Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waz Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Hi WazCamber position can raise or lower the 5 as much a 20mm each corner,so a calibration check/adjust is your next move. Hi Tony, I'm planning on an investigation weekend to try and make sense of my '5 about the suspension height. I wondered how the camber could make such a difference on the ride height as I thought the spring/shock would determine the height and the camber only the angle of the wheel on the end of it? Thanks for your patience! Waz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Hi WazCamber position can raise or lower the 5 as much a 20mm each corner,so a calibration check/adjust is your next move. Hi Tony, I'm planning on an investigation weekend to try and make sense of my '5 about the suspension height. I wondered how the camber could make such a difference on the ride height as I thought the spring/shock would determine the height and the camber only the angle of the wheel on the end of it? Thanks for your patience! Waz. The upper/ lower wishbones connect above and below the hub. If you change the camber you also change the distance between the upper/ lower pivotal points at the hub, this in turn raises or lowers the body because a wheel that's leaning doesn't have the same height as a wheel that's bolt upright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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