Anees Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Hi guys, I have just had some major work carried out on the ARISTO I own, including steering rack bushes, rear upper control arms (with ball joints replacement), Toms 6 links, Tein Coilovers, EDFC, Toms ARS Cancellor TRD AntiRoll bars, Chasis braces etc. Work was done yesterday and basically the car is all over the place when I drive it at motorway speeds, its wondering off and I am getting judder through the steering wheel, feels almost as if the front is fighting to drive straight at motorway++ speeds I am going to check the following this week: 1) Wheel balancing 2)Wheel Nut Torque (103NM apparently) Obviously the car urgently needs a Geometry check/adjustment done asap which I pray when combined with the balancing and wheel torque fixes the probelms. I expect the car to be all over the place. I just want to let the new suspension settle first however and make sure I am happy with the ride height before the geometry. My question is about corner weighting. Is it something that will make a big difference on a road car? I have had coilovers on a few of my cars now in the past and never had them corner weighted before but I was talking to someone recently and they said I have to have the car corner weighted with the new coilovers otherwise the geometry is a waste of time? I wouldn't have a clue where to go in the Northwest for corner weighting. Any advice appreciated Thanks, Anees PS I am going to make a conscious effort to visit the WIM forum more often Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 By design the car should have a reasonable weight ratio, this can be improved upon assuming adding/ removing or just moving weight is the method used. Simply moving the coil perch up or down is not the way to corner weight the car. Personally i feel your problem is the Geometry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anees Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Oh yeah, with the amount of work done to the chasis geometry is definetly going to be away out! So would you say in my case I should just leave the corner weighting? (if I can even find a place reasonably close to me). Thanks. Anees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Unless the car is stripped and race ready i cannot see the point and expense of corner weighting a daily drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anees Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Yay!! I should stop listening to people that give me over the top advice. I must admit I wasn't sure about corner weighting......... Going slightly off topic here, but can the steering be sharpened up and be made more responsive through geometry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Yay!! I should stop listening to people that give me over the top advice. I must admit I wasn't sure about corner weighting......... Going slightly off topic here, but can the steering be sharpened up and be made more responsive through geometry? Definitely, that's how road cars can be transformed into track cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anees Posted October 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Had the wheels balanced again today and the drivers side front and rears were both off and needed to be rebalanced, the car does drive better and the vibration is less. One worrying thing is that the rear wheels are a very tight fit onto the centre bore of the rear hubs; so much so that today when the balancing was being done the wheels had to be forced off. The bore is 60mm and the wheels (TTE mk1 GS300 Sport wheels 10" rear) are supposed to be 60mm. Should I be concerned? At least their is no chance of the wheels at the rear not being hub centric, but is them being too tight on the hub an issue too? Learnt that the wheel nuts on a GS300 should be torqued to 103NM Going to try and get the geometry settings done on Friday (leaving the car with them at lunchtime) hopefully. The car is lowered on 18" wheels (8.5" wide front and 10" wide rear) with a two finger gap between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch at both the front and rear of the car. What I would like to is sharpen up the steering if possible and make it return to the centre quicker; ideally also make the car more stable at high speed and stop wondering. I have replaced the steering rack bushes with recommended ones from Club Lexus and they have helped with the steering but I still have a "dead-zone" in the steering but not as much as before. Will the standard Aristo stock geometry settings work for me or will I need custom settings? Thanks, Anees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 Often the alloy and the hub has a meterial reaction and the wheel gets locked on..... A wire brush and some copper slip willl take care of that. The Geo is a hard one to explain but i would want OEM rear camber, more toe in.... More than OEM castor, -20' front camber and 0 toe on bump. The objective on the front is to view live "camber/castor" positions then turn the steering onto a reasonable lock and watch the cambers migration, what i look for is the inner wheels negative camber to migrate to positive within that lock zone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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