Bazza

are you on D2`s Gee?

bloody women my motto is fast becoming: leave what could be done today, because tomorrow she will have changed her mind

the fact that the business doesnt make enough profit is rubbish the insurance should be part of the start up costs, and considered essential wether a requirement or not what happens three years down the line when they have a bad year, do they give it a miss insurance is not there soley for the customer, it is there for the trader as well

Wise words..... i have never thought of that method... well done! sounds ingenious shall give it a try.........when i get time

Ohh no Mark ....that would make me 7 months old than I am Anyway...back on subject we are going to take off the shocks & springs, run them to the garage opposite work & see if they can do up the nuts properly and go from there (whilst crossing fingers & toes that it will sort the problem ) Bump How have things gone?..... Genuinely interested was the solution as simple as expected? took the day off to sort out problematic cars long list of things to do didnt qite get round to the item at the bottom of the list .....the mx5 oh well another week in the punto wont hurt Punto!........ Explain! errr.........fiat punto when janey has been a bad girl she gets demoted to driving the punto

Ohh no Mark ....that would make me 7 months old than I am Anyway...back on subject we are going to take off the shocks & springs, run them to the garage opposite work & see if they can do up the nuts properly and go from there (whilst crossing fingers & toes that it will sort the problem ) Bump How have things gone?..... Genuinely interested was the solution as simple as expected? took the day off to sort out problematic cars long list of things to do didnt qite get round to the item at the bottom of the list .....the mx5 oh well another week in the punto wont hurt

hi gee ive been a member over there for about 8 months now was posted without any great results hardly a common problem, and certainly not one you would expect after being so-called professionally worked on ! the ct9 is fine for holding 1bar, just not for long time use, which i dont intend to, just want to get the most out of it till it gets upgraded, i totally agree Mark no FCD being that it was a new HKS actuator, specified for the car, i was reluctant to believe it would be wrong it was mentioned by the mechanic who had just set it up, about the lack of air available ??, i felt this was strange as the smallest part of the incoming flow is the turbo itself thought i would take a look at re-routing the intake to avoid passing over the manifold area and guess what i found ? the intake pipe which was standard is made of metal, on the final connection to the turbo it has a rubber sleeve on the inside this sleeve had been squashed to the effect that one half was actually across the airflow, reducing incoming air by half the other danger is that it could have split, and theres only one way it could go, yes ! straight into the turbo anyway replaced the pipework and guess what ! yes full boost right through the rev range slightly overboosting at 7000 revs what a difference it makes now i am somewhat relieved but also not very happy with the work that was carried out Mark how busy is that dyno of yours ?? Glad you got it sorted Barrie - you must be well relieved. It was supposed to have been professionally installed too wasn't it? Time for Mr Boot to meet Mr Bottom methinks. If it's mapping validation/calibration you want done, there's approx 2 week delay at the moment. Let me know if you need any help will do Mark i have your number

i totally agree Mark no FCD being that it was a new HKS actuator, specified for the car, i was reluctant to believe it would be wrong it was mentioned by the mechanic who had just set it up, about the lack of air available ??, i felt this was strange as the smallest part of the incoming flow is the turbo itself thought i would take a look at re-routing the intake to avoid passing over the manifold area and guess what i found ? the intake pipe which was standard is made of metal, on the final connection to the turbo it has a rubber sleeve on the inside this sleeve had been squashed to the effect that one half was actually across the airflow, reducing incoming air by half the other danger is that it could have split, and theres only one way it could go, yes ! straight into the turbo anyway replaced the pipework and guess what ! yes full boost right through the rev range slightly overboosting at 7000 revs what a difference it makes now i am somewhat relieved but also not very happy with the work that was carried out Mark how busy is that dyno of yours ??

rear sways and adjustable panhards are available made by whiteline bit of interest: by increasing the diameter of a sway bar by 1mm can increase stiffness from 15-35% by 2mm can increase stiffness from 30-75% by 3mm can increase stiffness from 50-120%

I understand what you mean.... since the coilovers belay roll then the CG must stay about 45/55... interesting bazza.... i wonder this? have you noticed 'bump steer' from this configuration? cant say i have, steering is very point and go, with good feedback with no un-toward moves unlike the bump accelerator....on a bumpy road its very hard to keep your foot nice and level

the IS bars were quite noticably bigger and heavier, the starlet ones were visibly not much different, but made a fair difference, not as much as the IS but as you know with its set up, it doesnt move much in any direction

As a percentage how much do you think the new front bar helped the handling?... And have you noticed a movement in the roll centre? handling wise its got to be 100%, it really did make a vast improvement the lexus range are fairly wallowy cars, the pursuit of a comfortable drive by stiffening up, with no loss of comfort its all plusses unless its being really pushed it basically stays flat ! you loose that feeling off falling off your seat, which in turn helps the driving of the car however there are times when you have to push it

cheers nick all help appreciated

will be looking at this tomorrow resetting the actuator and seeing what results from it fingers crossed

i think that the right bar can be one of the best improvements lowering with stiffer bars do compliment each other on the IS200 thicker bars improved the cornering immensly without any noticable detriment to the comfort levels, gave a greater feel of confidence as to which comes first i personally would do bars first and lowering second although i dont think it matters, but feel that the two should go hand in hand with each other

bumpity bump

what about us mere mortals when you say three way adjustable dampers, do you mean height and damping adjustable, i am using the D2`s on the starlet, and they have an infinate amount of different adjustments, but are track orientated, which means although the can be adjusted for road use they are allways a bit stiff and therefore a bit uncomfortable for everyday road use presuming road orientated would have a more comfortable ride, but be less suitable for track use is it possible to have the best of both worlds !! Three way (or even better four way) adjustable damping is perfect for us mere mortals Let me explain (tapping chalk on blackboard) if I may? A two way adjustable damper allows you to adjust both bump (compression) and rebound (extension) rates to optimise handling to suit the application in normal use. That's fine, but what happens when the wheel hits a bump or pot hole? The car is sent completely off line because it's applying the same bump/rebound setting to a very fast change in cirumstances as is to it's normal operating conditions. What 3 and 4 way adjustable dampers allow you to do is to also set the bump and rebound for rapid reactions as well as for the normal slow reacting conditions. I'm not very good at explaining things so I hope that made sense Clearly, there is a layer of cost attached to this so it's not cheap, but anyone that has driven a car with good and bad suspension will know that it's money well spent. tsk tsk mark, its whiteboards now !, how long is it since you were at school if i am understanding this right normally when three way adjustment is mentioned it is concerning for example a "coilover" what you are saying is that your three way adjustment is solely concerning the damper sounds very complex but also sounds like you can have the best of both worlds i will sit back and listen now

what about us mere mortals when you say three way adjustable dampers, do you mean height and damping adjustable, i am using the D2`s on the starlet, and they have an infinate amount of different adjustments, but are track orientated, which means although the can be adjusted for road use they are allways a bit stiff and therefore a bit uncomfortable for everyday road use presuming road orientated would have a more comfortable ride, but be less suitable for track use is it possible to have the best of both worlds !!

Air tools are the only solution.... repetitive pulses from an air gun will remove/re-fit the nut with ease. are you giving me permission to buy some air tools and a compressor yahoo ok a trip to a local garage then janny said if bazza asks say yes..... a kind of subliminal gift mate ..... Is it your Birthday anytime now not mine ....but guess whos is next month i wont tell you how old but its the only number that is in alphabetical order (should have put that up in the conundrums)

Air tools are the only solution.... repetitive pulses from an air gun will remove/re-fit the nut with ease. are you giving me permission to buy some air tools and a compressor yahoo ok a trip to a local garage then

How does the exposed threads compare to the other side? Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex? Is the lock not a thread lock? shock in question has about 6 threads showing opposite has about 10 showing is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath Then i think you need a spacer/washer with a bigger internal diameter to compress the mount fully and pull the shaft to the expected length. erm yep that was my thought problem is how to get the nut off and obviously back on after Try and load the coil spring by adding weight in the boot (remove the un-sprung weight) then i would pinch the top of the shaft with mole-grips and hopefully remove the nut.... For the on (no laughing) add some Fairy liquid to the shaft it doe's wonders now tony i think you have forgotten that this is an mx5 boot space allows only a socket and one hand in at a time i can get it out without to much difficulty the nut is within a cup sort of thing, the only tool to fit is a socket, which obviously then covers any part of the shaft the solution is clear how the hell the solution is carried out is not clear

How does the exposed threads compare to the other side? Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex? Is the lock not a thread lock? shock in question has about 6 threads showing opposite has about 10 showing is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath Then i think you need a spacer/washer with a bigger internal diameter to compress the mount fully and pull the shaft to the expected length. erm yep that was my thought problem is how to get the nut off and obviously back on after

How does the exposed threads compare to the other side? Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex? Is the lock not a thread lock? shock in question has about 6 threads showing opposite has about 10 showing is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath

i was a bit worried about doing that , in case i did any damage

it seems the top mounted nut is either not done up enough or needs a spacer under it problem is that the central rod just spins ! i only have access to the normal home users tools and am presuming it will need an air tool of some kind unless anyone knows otherwise i think this is known as the nagknockstical theory it knocks so she nags !! i never even fitted the things