TDIPLC

It's a tapered thread Barrie, so that it self tightens as it screws in. Most engineering hardware shops sell them. Zeus tables tell you the correct size of drill bit (the engineering shop will halp you with this, but let me know if you're struggling).

The benefits from this kit are an increase in engine torque, and elevated reliability due to the superior contruction quality. The low compression pistons allow more ignition advance than the high compression pistons, which should provide more power on turbo and supercharged cars.

It' the internal baffling that reduces the oil surge. The hinged gates your Dad concieved is still a valid method even today. The oil pick up pipe should be enclosed within a box which has hinged doors which only open inwards.

Toda Racing have released a revision to their very successful 2.3 litre stroker kit for the Mitsubishi Evolution models 1 to 9. The revision includes specially designed centre oil fed uprated connecting rods.

After much anticipation, Toda Racing have finally released the low compression version of their very successful 2.2 litre stroker kit for the Honda Civic Type R (EP3) and Integra Type R (DC5). Paul at TDi North is installing one in his car.

Toda Racing have released an Anti G Sump with removable (for cleaning) windage tray, for the Honda Civic Type R (EP3), Integra Type R (DC5) and S2000. They are a lovely die cast construction, and are the next best thing to a dry sump for oil surge prevention.

The flames are caused by unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. This can be a consequence of some forms of anti lag systems (on turbocharged cars), or uncalibrated deceleration fuel cut off. Most race car owners have completely different priorities regarding engine management calibration. They are normally only concerned about WOT (wide open throttle) calibration, whereas road cars need to be optimised for all conditions. Personally I like to see race cars calibrated for all conditions too as this helps with getting off the line and any sort of transient acceleration.

It's scary that something so small and inexpensive could potentially cause so much damage.

Yes.

That's right. The oil comes out of the pump into the outside of the filter, through the filter then out of the inside of the filter to the engine. In the picture I posted you can see that the hose from the outside of the sandwich plate to the inside of the remote filter housing, then from the outside of the remote filter housing to the inside of the sanwich plate. Good bye oil pressure and engine

I think it's fairly safe to assume that Mr Toyota has designed the standard filter to be big enough, but a larger filter will certainly be less restrictive. It may be worth while considering an oil cooler/thermostat/filter relocation/larger filter package. Slightly off topic I know, bu if you do install the above package, make sure that you connect the oil lines the correct way around . We had a really nice Supra in last week that had a remote oil filter kit installed by a "Supra Specialist". The engine seized up on the motorway so was towed to us. Upon inspection we discovered that the oil lines were connected up incorrectly (pressurising the one way valve in the oil filter the wrong way - causing greatly reduced oil pressure ). Oddly enough the installer also fitted an oil pressure meter at the same time and told the customer that he had low oil pressure but evidently didn't think to inspect his own work. Here's a picture of the offending item. Can you would out why it all went wrong?

Excellent idea. Good work guys

A few production cars have that sort of thing (Mitsubishi 3000GT), but they are all silenced. This item in question vents completely unsilenced exhaust to the atmosphere

Are you dissin my chariot Barrie?

Not that vents to atmosphere unsilenced, or at 90 degrees to the exhaust flow Anyone ever heard a completely unsilenced exhaust before? It's not pleasant. I wonder how long the the flap seal will remain intact for after being subject to carbon build up and general "under car" environmental abuse? I wouldn't be surprised if it leaks like a seive after not very long

An excited client directed me toward this today link Obviously I couldn't believe my eyes, and when I picked myself off the floor I realised that there must people that buy stuff like this.

I was interested to learn that Lotus Engineering has created a supercharged Exige producing 264hp on Bioethanol (a combination of 85% ethanol and 15% petrol) which apparently has a RON rating of 106. They reckon that there is a 70% reduction in CO2 impact (calcalated on well to wheels basis). I am heartened to see investment in new fuel technolgies as this is probably the only hope for future generations.

I like that - thanks

Sorry, I just realised that my last post reads like I'm a Mod welcoming Barrie. I'm not a Mod, so I should have said "congratulations Barrie" Sorry again

A very warm welcome Barrie

OK, thanks Adie. Do you want a complete clutch kit or just the centre plate? The clutch covers are identical between the organic and cerametalic kits. It is normal to replace both at the same time but you may get away with it if yours is not very old and is unabused. I think the flywheel will be worth waiting for mate I shall take the whole lot please mate. Might aswell do the job properly Will do Adie. Thanks very much

OK, thanks Adie. Do you want a complete clutch kit or just the centre plate? The clutch covers are identical between the organic and cerametalic kits. It is normal to replace both at the same time but you may get away with it if yours is not very old and is unabused. I think the flywheel will be worth waiting for mate

I am not aware of anything in between - sorry A synchronous engaging multi plate clutch/flywheel is very nice to drive (a bit noisy when disengaged tho), but no-one seems to make one for the is200 Under the circumstances I would recommend a Helix cerametalic kit. The new TDi flywheel is due for release in 3 weeks. Can you wait that long?

The cerametalic sprung centre plate will cope with more torque than the organic alternative, and it has torsional vibration springs rather than being "solid" which improves the "feel" of the clutch. The downside is that there is a reduction is "user friendlines" as the metal to metal contact creates a vibration on engagement. Here's a brief description of the cerametalic clutch, and it's advantages: 1. Instead of full annular shaped linings as with organic plates, there are trapezoid shaped buttons evenly spaced around the circumferance of the plate. 2. The cerametalic material is made from a powder consisting mainly of copper ceramic which is compressed and heated until it melts. When it cools it solidifies into a strong cerametalic material which is riveted onto the driven plate and machined flat. 1. They have a very low inertia which helps quicker gear changes and extends synchoniser life. 2. They have a relatively high and stable coefficient of friction of around 0.4 which increases the torque capacity. 3. They have a relatively high temperature tolerance of around 440 degrees C withiout showingsigns of fade. 4. The trapezoid button design allows over 50% of the flywheel pressure plate surface to be exposed to the atmosphere which allows convective heat transfer to improve by 100%. 5. They do not suffer from warpage as do full annular ring types. 6. They are considerably less sensitive to oil and grease contamination than organic material. Having said the above, personally I would prefer to use an organic clutch as a daily driver but if it's not man enough then I think you may have little choice but to choose cerametalic. Hope this helps

Some nice pictures there. Thanks for sharing them