Rich

Here you go mate - enquiries@wheels-inmotion.co.uk

When Tony did my geo he heated it up to adjust it. Or are we talking about the nut that holds it onto the hub as you obviously can't heat that up, but then why would it need to be just to make an adjustment? My MOT passed as well and you can see where it's been heated...

The bloke has already sold them, didn't take them off the site Still I get me car back tomorrow, all fixed now, been hell the last 2 weeks without it...

What if the paint is flaking/peeling off is this an indication that they might be older than stated? Someone on MEG put some pics up of their Eibach springs they had changed after doing 220K miles, the difference in height between those and the new ones was minimal. No harm in looking at them, as long I they supply some sort of guarantee I'd be able to take them back hopefully if I feel they're not right. But then with my luck I'd probably be better of buying new...

Yeah I know that's why I didn't wanna go lower than 30mm. I've also been told that the more weight you have in the car the firmer the springs should get so it won't appear much lower with a full load. I've found some Eibach 30mm V6/TD springs second hand for 75quid. The same ones new I've found for 165quid. Now these are from a shop as well so should be able to view them. What do you need to look for when buying second hand springs? From what I've read though these Eibach ones seem to be very good...

Well I have had a full boot, an adult, child and 2 dogs in the back when I go away. The arch lip is just above the tyre then. So when there's 2 in the front as well I'd imagine it's very low. I've only just decided to lower it though so never paid much attention to the clearance. Never had any banging etc and I drive 300 miles like this, plus there's a few nasty speed bumps I go over. Those pyramid shaped ones made of rubber. I may have found some 30mm V6 springs I can use as they shouldn't compress anymore than what they're suppose to, but they're 50quid more!

I get you now, good idea Means I'd have to remove another pinch bolt, just hope it don't snap like both front ones!! :ph34r_anim:

Not sure what you mean mate? Or do you mean compress them while on the car?

I want to lower mine and I'm gonna get some 40mm springs. Cos these are also for the petrol versions they lower the TD by about 50-60mm cos of the extra weight. Now me wheels have an offset of 35 (the minimum for ford wheels). I think the rear tyres will catch on the arch lip from visually looking but I can't be sure. Is there anyway I can check whether they will catch before I buy them?

Nice touch mate

Untill the wim shop folder is finished all sales are though the parent http://www.tdi-plc.com/ same price different location. No ford section on there!

Cool will have a gander in abit

Can you buy direct from them as I've been looking at some lowering springs from them? It looks like you can't though looking at the site...

Bloody hell But there was something faulty on the car in this case, I've replaced/am upgrading everything so it shouldn't get as bad as that surely... Think I remember you mentioning that when I had the geo done last year. I'm not bothered if I get abit of wear as I'll just swap them for the rears when I've replaced them. Don't know why but everything happens before I go away, first the subframe problem, then I think it was the CV joint and then the current problem!!

I've had everything off suspension/steering wise from the front and I'm planing on fitting lowering springs, replacing the track rod ends and I will probably be getting new driveshaft/cv joints if it isn't my diff that is going. I probably won't have everything done for a month or so, maybe longer and I'm going on holiday in 3-4 weeks. I think I will cover about 1000 miles by the time I get another geo done. So how long does it take for signs of tyre wear to start showing? I would have obviously lost my fine tune settings but if the car doesn't pull or drift could I still get some uneven wear? I know there is no definate answer but I'm just curious so I have an idea of how long to leave it before I get the geo done again. The tyres on the front are fairly new and I don't wanna start seeing bald edges etc. The rears are down to 2-3mm so if I put these on the front and the new ones on the rear would they still wear as I haven't done any work on the rear yet?

I will try that way next time Not putting my splitter anywhere near them in future!!

I've seen someone use a pole before and tried meself but it wouldn't budge! Now that I've got new ones on hopefully they'll come out easier if I do it that way. Yeah but the lower ball joint needs taking out to change the CV joint! Ideally needs to come out for changing the shocks as well although you can just get them in if you hold the arm down. The only trouble with that is I'm worried I'd be putting too much strain on the bushes. As the ball joint rubber is only held on with 2 spring clips I thought there might have been replacements for a quid or two. Won't be changing it just yet then! Cheers will bear that in mind for when I change it again

It seems that everytime I try to split one of these I end up buggering the rubber around it. When I was working on the car yesterday I managed to split the rubber on the lower arm ball joint. I only fitted it last week!! I've got one of those fork shaped splitters and it doesn't matter how careful I am or how many rags I put around the rubber it splits. So am I doing it wrong or should I be using a different tool? What other splitters can you get? And can you get new rubbers for the ball joints, save me forking out another 20quid on a new arm?

sorry to here your g/box has gone now m8.mondeos there a never ending headache.but we love,em dearly It's a pain, especially as I'm going on holiday in 4 weeks and need the car to get there. Means I gotta get the gearbox done now along with everything else I had planned for the next couple of weeks! Still once it's done it shouldn't need doing again for as long as I have the car (touch wood!)...

Well as you know looks like I need a new gearbox now but I WON'T let this car defeat me!

Yep alot of work but I'd rather do it all now and hopefully not worry about it again! I'n enjoying getting me hands dirty anyway Tired! Nah, when you work nights you learn to go without sleep!!!

I won't pretend I understood all of that as I didn't but I got the gist of it... I used the mounts I took off mine on the other shocks/springs. Now they would've done 163K miles and I'm not sure if they're actually worn or not. As I think that noise was caused from the nut being loose. Do you think I should get 2 new mounts or ones from a low milage car? I keep referring to it as pulling, it is actually drifting slightly and tramlining but that's due to the tyes as you've said previously. Me rear ones will need replacing soon so I will make sure the place I order them from send a pair with the outer bands on opposite sides. If they ask why I'll point them in this direction! I'm going to replace a couple of more things on the car before I get the geo done again... As I'm getting new shocks I want some new springs so may lower it 30mm. The rear anti roll bar bushes will be replaced with poly ones and maybe the fronts if there's a way to get the bolts out without lowering the subframe? The drop links have been done and I will replace the lower arm bushes with poly ones next time they need doing as these seem to wear very quickly. Also I need that CV joint changed before I have the geo done. Hopefully when that lot is done I won't have any problems for a while!!

Tony will be able to relate to this more than anyone I think... If you remember that noise I asked you to listen to before xmas I think I've found what was causing it. I've just realised that the noise I'm getting at the moment due to this damaged shock and the way the top plate is sitting on the spring, is the same. At the time me tyres were almost on the limit and I then got new ones fitted and the noise disappeared! Now when I changed these shocks and springs over the nut that holds the cap on the spring and the nut on top of the little rubber cap in the engine bay weren't very tight at all. So when I got me original geo done, assuming these nuts weren't tight and they were allowing some very slight movement in the cap/spring could this have upset the settings as soon as I drove the car again. During the fine tune I think the toe was out quite abit on the same side. I am also still getting some drifting/pulling. And how do you explain the noise going when I changed the tyres? Would the extra tread have meant the position of the strut would have changed or it was putting more pressure on the spring as the tread is deeper? Edit - Also I forgot to mention that after the new front tyres were fitted the steering wheel was at a slight angle.

Good price, he'd get alot more breaking it though...

My car is a constant headache mate!! Thanks for the offer scorps but I'll pass as I need to get the car sorted by Saturday as got alot of driving to do Sunday So I'm just gonna get 2 new front shocks and put me old springs on for now. The shocks are the same though for the TD and V6 so I'd only need springs if I change them again as me rear shocks are ok. I wouldn't be happy using that damaged spring with the new shocks and I'm thinking of lowering it slightly now anyway, which brings me to another question... Could I just lower the front 40mm and leave the rear springs as standard? Me brother has done this on his pug 106 but obviously the mondeo TD is alot bigger and heavier. I've always got people in the rear and a heavy boot load when I go away and I'm fairly certain the tyres will catch on the arch lip if I lower the rear.