Tony

tdiplc any thoughts on this topic?

Is this a coil over oil application or just a damper only configuration.

Ego reduce frontend grip to invite balance. The purist in me doesn't like that. Why? Forget the rolling radius differences at the moment, how did you decide 20mm should be thegap with a car balanced at circa 55/45. The Boxster, which is 50/50 has a much larger (over double) 'step'. I try and keep up but i'm lost. At least we agree on something Unless you object i'm going to try 245 wide rear and use the fine tune to adjust the camber accordingly. Then track test. Science and theory is one thing, feeling the car squirm on track is firmly another and my gut feel is a tiny bit more mechanical rear and at race speeds the car will be ok. Quote 1: Why the front is to tight.... Why do you feel nervous about losing that over-steer? Quote 2: The 'gap' is the track not the weight ratio....Anyway 45/55 would be better. MR2 not a Boxster, different cars indeed! Quote 3: The 245mm is fine by me... but understand if we re-define the front camber positions with the new 245's on the car then the result will become 'blind'......... Was the performance due to the tyres or the Geometry?.... Gut feeling is get the Geo correctly placed... Deduce from that what you will, but lets at least complete one stage!

Your car suffers from very bad over-steer, hence why we need to reduce the front Camber, then invite neutral or slight over-steer.. the over is better for the rwd... but you are the driver you tell me once tested? The tyre combination should be 245/40 rear and 215/45 front.. if i am wrong I'm sure Dan will advise. So what will this gain..... in truth very little. The mechanical track is 1470 front 1450 rear. With the wider rear tyres the mechanical track is the same, whereas the pneumatice track is +40mm Geometrically the rear does not have a scrub radius only a contact patch.. Depending on the wheel off-set the only calculation needed is 'Rolling resistance' and 'Lateral resistance' both relate to toe positions... Although some my argue pneumatic distortion due to the Camber would become an issue, i personally disagree since the positions are not aggressive enough. Wider tyres -ve weight transfer and roll centre need actual track testing... Even the Cray Super Computer would have trouble calculating that in advance.... It's a 'Drivers decision.

If you do, you know were that Birthday Turbo will go don't you!

Air tools are the only solution.... repetitive pulses from an air gun will remove/re-fit the nut with ease. are you giving me permission to buy some air tools and a compressor yahoo ok a trip to a local garage then janny said if bazza asks say yes..... a kind of subliminal gift mate ..... Is it your Birthday anytime now

the solution is clear how the hell the solution is carried out is not clear Air tools are the only solution.... repetitive pulses from an air gun will remove/re-fit the nut with ease.

How does the exposed threads compare to the other side? Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex? Is the lock not a thread lock? shock in question has about 6 threads showing opposite has about 10 showing is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath Then i think you need a spacer/washer with a bigger internal diameter to compress the mount fully and pull the shaft to the expected length. erm yep that was my thought problem is how to get the nut off and obviously back on after Try and load the coil spring by adding weight in the boot (remove the un-sprung weight) then i would pinch the top of the shaft with mole-grips and hopefully remove the nut.... For the on (no laughing) add some Fairy liquid to the shaft it doe's wonders

Hi Ya .... are the wheels standard or aftermarket?.... whatever make sure! you receive a print out from the Dealership.... with that we can do wonders. Also Ellz.... Pictures are compulsory here..... 'The wheels'

I'll get me coat.....

How does the exposed threads compare to the other side? Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex? Is the lock not a thread lock? shock in question has about 6 threads showing opposite has about 10 showing is a threaded rod with a flat bit about a 1/3 of full diameter nut is just a nut with spring washer underneath Then i think you need a spacer/washer with a bigger internal diameter to compress the mount fully and pull the shaft to the expected length.

Internal or external...... bet you say both

How does the exposed threads compare to the other side? Does the top of the shaft own a hexagonal head or a female hex? Is the lock not a thread lock?

Valid addition jon...Terminology tends to differ even between car makes in the UK.. my post is worthless if the reader cannot identify the components!

It's a balance weight.... not in the sence of wheel balance but weight/inertia balance between the drive train. . . . . . I think

Don't worry about being over the 2000..... this i set for safety, if the fine-tune was left for 4000 miles then the tyres may show visible wear.... on the 2000 i rely on the tyres measurements taken on the first test at an increment of 100th of a mm

Vehicle 03 plate VW Transporter 97000 miles on the clock Position OSR The owner was totally unaware that the rear coil was broken, despite the fact that the vehicle is used to transport heavy loads What is unusual is the position of the brake. The helix being progressively wound normally brakes at the lower coil... The progressive deflection should be able to absorb the initial load taken at about 500lbn/nm accentuated. I have to assume this example is due to contamination during construction delivering a final visible flaw.

Development follows predictable paths but has a critical point that i will explain later. Sprung weight is the portion of the vehicles total mass acting on the un-sprung weight, the larger the ratio of sprung weight to un-sprung weight, the less the vehicle is affected by the road condition, in other words lowering contributes a major initial factor towards rigidity. Immediately evident is the movement in the roll centre has allowed the geometric conditions to become refined. However still as the vehicle rolls the roll centre tends to migrate and can lead to stability problems. An obvious solution is to up-grade the sway bar. In a turn the sprung mass wants the car to rotate around the roll centre, if the vertical distance between the roll centre and the centre of gravity is not equal then the centrifugal force (times) the roll centre will cause the body to lean toward the outside of the turn, which reduces the cornering grip. Braces retain flex Diagonally/Longitudinally and reduces the position of the roll centre (times) centrifugal force increasing cornering grip but this is not without consequence. Frame Rigidity if taken to extreme would deny absorption from the road condition or indeed the turn. Fundermentally the centrifugal and vehicular polar forces must be restrained. If the coils/sway/braces fail to absorb the roll centre then the weight transfer and centrifugal force will win.

whats the "other car forum?" LOC

.... Sorted Top man Just seems a logical thing to me, trackday setups and driftday setups, kinda the same, but also different, but still alike They are miles apart....Your car was set for drift... now recovered so you can feel the difference. How do you think the previous set-up would have felt on the track now you have experienced both types of Geometry?

I need a 'slap down' on this topic.... Assume the sway bar is up-rated? and during testing the Yew felt lazy wouldn't the opportunity to 'freely' adjust the sway benefit...... If no then why replace the sway in the first place..... And deny manipulation to suit.

Welcome in Nick Geometrically your car gave me a massive insight to how other people set the car for drifting.....The camber and castor was as expected, but the violent toe was not, especially the front position...For a year i argued negative front toe would over activate the 'toot'.... and each time i was cut down, seemingly the cut down was miss-information trying to cut an edge. The positions now are very....very different how does the 'turn in' feel?....... Also does the steering feel lighter? steering feels heavier, which is what i wanted. turn-in, need to find some more twisty roads, have only really driven it on the motorway so far, and a few laps of roundabouts at 50mph Excellent example of Geometry..... On the front we dialled out massive amounts of Camber, which is a compressive force.... this was replaced by adding a small amount of Castor which is a mechanical force... The steering feel now is a direct result of the one angle. What you need to asses now is the 'steering feel' and the reactive turning radii.. From this we can develop a feel and radii... Then add to this over/under steer to develop the Camber for your Geometry.

Welcome in Nick Geometrically your car gave me a massive insight to how other people set the car for drifting.....The camber and castor was as expected, but the violent toe was not, especially the front position...For a year i argued negative front toe would over activate the 'toot'.... and each time i was cut down, seemingly the cut down was miss-information trying to cut an edge. The positions now are very....very different how does the 'turn in' feel?....... Also does the steering feel lighter?

Personally i like 'set-up by the Doctor' but i will let you guys decide..... How's this for a funny sticker..... 'I love defenceless animals.........especially in good gravy'

Play nicely children ..... There will be many models here with proud owners passionate to express why each one is better than the other... In truth they are all best!... In the owners eye Compare the good and bad between models..... Explore how to improve.... Invite swapping of knowledge at a different level across the Marque waters... Don't forget 'competition' is for spectators......