Mat

ive been known to have it 1 or 2 times

whats the tyre pressures

it was OSR yep

a not so healthy 255/35/18 after 8 Runs this one was driven to the Pop!, much cheering and clapping ensued

ok Tony you asked for more pics....some cracking ones here... just had these emailed to me

the old beetle series cup cars could drift very well.......using big rubber on the rear and big hp

to be honest, the bug will be hard to drift, its not getting the tail out, its getting it back in line. get her a cheap Datsun S13,......or a sierra!, E30 beemer etc etc

there sweet...should bang them on You tube, and link from there, will save the photobucket bandwidth

yup, im really pleased with all the effort thats been put in...... Julian had a word with me while i was there....will have to let you know in PM. Shaun @ TDI took lots of pics and some video, so just waiting for him to host them somewhere.

well, im back, the car performed a treat, .and i had a brilliant weekend power is now just right, throttle response spot on, and the geometry perfect, whereas id normally kill a set of rear tyres in a couple of runs, now they last 7-8-9 runs, or longer....... the car now goes where i want it to go, and on power off weight transfer, the car slides under an amazing amount of control...... the geometry on the rear couldn't have been as successful without the use of the new re-inforced lower arms with spherical bush, the TDI adjustable TCA with spherical bush, and the "WhiteArms" i made to pretty much give 70% more camber adjustment......now the wear on the rear is almost perfectly even across the whole tyre width, until a tyre sponser comes along, this is the best set up for tyre wear Have to give a big thanks to Shaun (TDI) and his better half, for coming down, and giving a bit of support, Thanks very much! there was a shed load of pics taken at USC, but here are a few ive found already........on the tinterweb

Brilliant Tony, well i should be able to give some feedback after the weekend. ive asked Sam to post the Corner weight results.......Quite interesting the car, is heavier than a std is200, but we have to consider the bigger engine, and roll cage.....the DI though, was better than the std car..... however the weight on each corner is quite balanced....obviously front biased, but not as much as i had thought it would have been (considering the weight of the 2jz-gte) the cage, the location of the fuel cell, and the battery certainly help to balance the car out

brilliant Tony what were the final settings..you opted for. did you see the corner weight results...ill have to get sam to post them up, is that the only pic you managed to get....did the "white rods" help at all

i hear you on the rear...however the big comp guys have tyre sponsers, so are happy to kill "someone elses" rubber

well as it will soon be time for tony to wave his wand over the chassis set up on the Monster, i thought it may be time to discuss the requirements. -2.5 front and -1.5 camber.... seems the ideal on most of the Road driven drift cars. the requirements, are good turn in, and even tyre wear on the rear, neutral and balanced feel Camber a heavy front camber is useful,(id say around -3) as the car Will not be used on the road, i think even more aggressive camber on the front could be feasible. due to rear tyre wear, i would like to have the rear camber as low as possible for maximum Tyre contact patch.... On the rear you typically want even tyre wear, so i'd look for a 1.0-1.5 Castor is the biggy here, and assist greatly in the transitions between drift angles, ideally the quicker the steering wheel self centres the better, some guys are running around 7.5 to 8.0 castor toe 0 toe all round

its pretty common on mondeos this series of disasters, ive had t happen twice to me, when changing clutches......its such a major crap design

yup, i like it

ho hum......told you so good news you have the std stuff, if yyou dont need to fit the adjustable stuff...dont. unless you can keep the stuff maintained it will become a pain in the bottom

The rear adjustable trailing arms are an addition to the car and have been incorrectly set violating the final drive train. All this car needs is the rear set-back measuring then adjusting back to 0 nsr&osr. At the moment the shafts are swept back / \ violating the application of thrust at the tyre. yep, tony i know the parts are aftermarket..... but there seems to be alot of discussion about this and that and the other, but no visable solution forthcoming, my suggestions were a means to get to the route cause quickly, less talking---------more action

has anyone considered dropping the subframe and looking at the locating points, what does the other side of the car look like in relation. if the other side looks in the right place, can datum points not be taken from the other side to mirror across to this side, with all the adjustable links in there something bordering on similar should be achieved at least this is a starting point. however, there is something drastically wrong for sure!! something id definatley consider, is sourcing at least that's sides standered suspension components, the problem now is that it will take alot of work to try and find even the factory settings.

it would be fine to use, HOWEVER, buy the pair , as in a matched USED pair

you got rid of the green

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

shaun, im surprised you didn't just split the body from the floor, ........and redo all the floor and heater channels in one.... especially considering what your plans are with the car.

tis a good write up, ill have to find a few pics of the bugs ive had......... the 66 import being the best, it took me 2 years to completely rebuild it.....as i told you , a few weeks back, everything from the middle of the 1/4 panels down was completely renewed......every single panel, nut and bolt, so can totally sympathise with you excellent.....