Mat

suck. in blow configuration the fan could act as resistance to air flowing through the matrix, in suck, the air has already done its job. as stated though well thought out ducting, and shrouding is equally as important, as well as looking at other aspects of the cooling system a well thought out cooling set up, works wonders......i had excellent results with mine with only a few simple alterations different thermostat ally radiator twin pull electric fans, manually controlled continuous self bleed system with greater capacity header tank

any updates...?

erm.wow its very christmassy...its certainly different, something ill have to get used to

Hmm, tell me more

this was in the Uk, and all but what i mentioned for the is300, was for the is200 i, get hold of the TSB from Lexus (technical service Bulletins )

actually yes, non were recalls, however the is300 was recalled for an ECU flash primary cat failing, premature excessive tyre wear front wheel inside edge addition of brace floor to frame fuel level sender sticking coolant pump seals weeping paint chip and body corrosion alloy wheel corrosion early radio CD mechanism jamming headlight condensation

it doesn't really need to be out of sight.....i think we should be the pioneers, of being open, and transparent in the development.... the base line can be very open, its the finite development that ultimately will be the crux of the development, and its these fine data acquisitions that are specific to my needs, may or may not be the same benefit to all the other lex drifters out there........wherever they are if anything, its the finite data that should be kept close to our chests

It's the 're-done" bit that bothers me..... Lock+Toot have a real relationship... As we know even F1 have only recently introduced positive Ackerman. I feel we can implement some low cost, high value Geometric gains solely aimed at Drift with some testing. Do you have and turn/toot data from the TDi Visualiner calibration rig you can pm me?....... And before you say "but Tony you set the car" yes i did but my target was within a different field of the calibration re-done is my technical slap dash term for it...... i dont have any of the Data, im sure Sam has, if not i am there on the 15th....and the car is going back onto the machine for some publicity stuff

another option is....and i quote from one of the other drivers with an s14a rather than just putting the washers in though, only gives one wheel at a time more lock, I.e, if you have a 3mm washer in and you turn it hard onto left lock the right hand rod moves out an extra 3mm but the left hand rod still sits at the same place as before the washers. How ever if you have it with 4mm machined of the rod and a 3mm washer each side, now on left lock the right rod is pushed out an extra 7mm over standard and the left rod comes in an extra 4mm over standard, basically giving some sick amounts of lock!! here is the method as used on the Toyota AE86....

putting washers in makes the distance between the two (rack) stops greater, giving more lock side to side, The washers are sized to fit INSIDE the steering rack, so you can physically turn the wheel a little bit further before the track rod end hits the outside of the rack (THE RACK STOPS) Obviously when the spacers are installed the settings are re-done.. i say this as though i have done it, but i haven't, but this is the method that is widely used..... if, however there is another way...we have the platform to experiment

I understood that mat.... There are some serious mechanical issues to overcome if the lock angles are to be increased by a high amount..... I have seem some impressive examples in DW but no clues were given to how this was achieved. they achieve the increased lock, by...shimming the end of the rack where the steering arms screw in, this then allows the amount the rack can move increase....the shims/shims MUST be of the same diameter as the original part of the rod so that it passes into the rack

right idea wrong tree, or right tree wrong idea, the reason behind more steering angle for the "drift" is to achieve greater drift angle, and be able to hold it, a low steering angle means when pushing for greater drift angle the car tends to go into a spin situation, as the angle of the car overtakes the angle of the steering....... im sure it has posh names, but ill be dammed if i know them.....lol

i need to look at improving steering lock firstly!!

HICAS is the rear wheel steer componenets on some of the bigger nissan's

Id love to come to Russia, its one of the countries Id love to Visit

hey Kaspar, drop me a Pm if you really are interested in BDC, i can give you all the info you will need

Eurodrift is now Known as BDC (British Drift Championship)

...........most MOT stations dont know

There is supposedly a separate MOT for limited road use vehicles involved in Motorsport........... (rally cars, sprint cars etc etc) but id be dammed if i can find any definitive answers

basically, if you dont have the resistor, when you cut the power...the engine could still run,..as the alternator is still turning, hence generating current...the resistor prevents damage to the alternator the isolator i have fitted to the Monster is the Armtech Hybrid Battery Isolator Model No. 70BC06.

it doesnt have to be fused, if you use proper car battery cable and use a grommet in the bulkhead....(however...could say safety, it would be better to use a trip breaker ) as for fuse size, 120 amp

sounds like a great day was had, shame i wasnt able to make it

i think the cars they fabricate, are quite good, especially the Jag and the Pajero

you know you have always got a test bed to work on. ...all sounds very good, lets hope your able to put your theory into some form of practice