Mat

dan joyce is Dan buck joyce from ...Dirty Sanchez...... GarageD is in watford, and is run by Julian....no connection. Tony ive seen all sorts of cars running GarageD decals....even a pug, and a BMW. when i asked the BMW owner why he had a GarageD decal on his car, he said it was the UKs top BMW tuner........lol

between the 2, the mk2 MR2, is my choice, ive never really liked the mk1, but have a soft spot for a good mk2

problem you will have is Pre93 jap metal, will either be expensive, or rusty...... but you could look at some of the more obscure jap cars. datsun sunny turbo....is an option if you can find one, or some of the older nissans...which end up being datsuns...anyway

yes the Turbo did suffer terrible understeer, but throttle fethering and turning into/out off the understeer could get the front round any corner, at considerable speed, remember though, back in 1989 it was a seriously underated car...at 200hp a trait that was solved somewhat on the turbo coupe, with the Torsen diff every time the MG-T comes up in discussion, it makes me want to go out and get one again

the 94 on 200 series rovers, are all honda based, using the same chassis as the civics the maestro , in 2.0l mg/turbo guise is a very good handling car

Raced them ???? Not what you told me Matthew...............never got to race just did a 1 or 2 practice sessions................ Best not to mislead peoiple never said that at all, ....

why does it have to be jap..... maestro 2.0 mg, infact you could get a maestro turbo for a little more than 1k rover coupe, make great track cars, again go for the 2.0 l...infact i can personally vouch for the rover 216gti...as a very good track machine....i raced them for a few years the coupe and gti are japanese cars....the gti even has the honda engine, but there both just badged as Rovers for old japanese metal you will pay considerably more trust me

Well the move.... say no more. Chunk did mention the lock angles and i'm all in favor of this since i cannot convert the toot to positive on your car without moving the calipers. From what i've seen online the spacers are quite cheap aren't they? dunno, never really priced any up, im sure if i knew the thread of the inner rack then it would more than likely be the same as most other toyotas

erm, ive never really looked into it that much, i have 2 spare racks that i was going to experiment with, one with bent arms, so soon as i could either get some spacers machined, or purchased i was going to fit them.....but the move over here kinda side tracked me

Do you think it's true that running directional tyres backwards slows down the de-lamination? it is indeed true, some brands of tyres prefer being run backwards ...or should i say some brands run backwards dont de-laminate as bad as they do when run in the correct rotation How interesting is that...... Don't suppose you know why? dunno, the delamination process seems to be linked to tyre compound, and heat generation, in that those which heat up very quickly, and are a soft compound, sometimes delaminate worst tyres ive experienced it with are Continentals and some Dunlop

yup the spacer is added to the inner end of the steering arm, betwwen the arm and the threaded insert on the rack, on turning, the steering arm, and spacer now can enter the rack before the std stop hits the cylinder, therefore allowing more angle to be achieved

Do you think it's true that running directional tyres backwards slows down the de-lamination? it is indeed true, some brands of tyres prefer being run backwards ...or should i say some brands run backwards dont de-laminate as bad as they do when run in the correct rotation

The garage that im doing the work in known a guy who builds caged for stock cars, so going to get a quote from him and see how good his work is first. Im guessing hes pretty good though as stock cars take a right bashing. You sent those wings across yet need to get them to the fibre glass place just make sure that the cage builder, makes the cage to MSA Blue Book specification

a true slick will give lots of grip when warmed up, however no Uk drift series allows them

what you doing for a cage ................streaky

forget what your thinking, the spacers are the same diameter as the rack, so in essence what you are doing is allowing the rack to travel approx 10mm+ further into the rack cylinder, thereby allowing more angle to be achieved on the wheels follow....?

on most cars the hydro set up, isnt the best choice elliot......

nah, its perfect as it is, with its original wheels...colour the lot. a good 190 these days are well worth there money

yes the power steering is speed sensitive

why didnt they pull the engine with the gearbox, would have been so much easier, the gearbox would have counter balance dthe engine.... its pretty much the norm for anyone who know s how to remove an inline to know that you pull the engine, with the gearbox connected. seems very much an arse about face way of doing it you may as well remove the power steering pump aswell, as it sits on the other side of the 1jz

thing is Tony, can you add shims and stuff, i know when i raced saloon cars in the early 90s, the series we was in, would not allow any modifications off the steering or suspension over and above what the series allowed from the initial series specifications you may find your stuck with only being able to work within the constraints of what the series will allow, for example, our cars could be no lower, or the wheel track any wider, than specified in the rule book......

its been ..."enhanced" and "stressed" and colour thingy majiged in photoshop, i have a much bigger version if you would like a copy tony...maybe for making into a poster

couple more ive been sent... and my new screen background

I just spoke to Rich "he's as sharp as a pin isn't he!" conclusion is..... 1: ARB's = good 2: Geo = good 3: Coil ratio = pants 4: Lock angle = pants 5: Ackermann = ? The only tools available i:e current suspension all i can work on is the lock angle, positive Ackermann is out of reach for the IS and the coil ratio is up to you. Personally i would explore the lock angle then if unsussesful work the coil ratio? coil ratio i can sort, just need to find, coil unsprung length, compressed length(what it is currently compressed at) coil I/D, coil O/D and Kg/mm

yes lock limits. greater the wheels can turn before hitting the steering locks, means the greater the angle, and less chance of spinning