alnug

That looks really good! ...but can i ask a technical question....would the wheel bearings suffer more wear with spacers this size?

yep I can envision cars of tomorrow with no glass at all...transmissive metal to let light in!! Or just all metal and everything inside being viewed from LCD screens which allow you to dial in the scenary and cameras etc..all this while the car either drives you to where you want.....I really can see it happening....as for manual cars in the future....what are they lol.

Thanks for the reply Tony..I knew you'd get back ok the highlighted bit is the bit i can't get my head round (oh and is that 0.9 minutes or 9 minutes?). now you say 1mm=9' .......but where is the reference point for the 1mm measurement? doesn't this depend on how big the tyre is (if this is used as the reference point?)? since if you use pythagoras..if the angle stays the same but the y distance increases then the x distance would also increase (wish it's easy to draw diagrams here!). :graduated:

ok all you specialists :graduated: ...here is my question. how does the mm translate into geometry measurement? I mean where do they relate this mm reading from? E.g. The accord has a Toe in spec for the rear of 2mm+/-2mm...now where is this specified from?...so say we take it as 1mm toe in either side....how is this measured in terms of the actual wheel? is it from the front edge and back edge of the tyre?? It is very easy to understand if it's in degrees and minutes since then it's just an angular measurement so tyre size etc don't come into it. Also if the spec is given in mm what info does the operator have to enter into the aligner? Does this also mean that if you change the rolling diameter this spec would also have to be changed? (would be far easier if it was spec'd in degrees and minutes!).

post 3 mate....

that is good stuff indeed !

look for the HUnter GSP9700 balancer and have them do a run out check using it.....it'll be much easier if you con't have tyres on it.....there is one in Northampton in Tyres Northampton and I trust them implicitly to do a good job.....Tony's also getting one of these fabulous machines!

nice leather chairs....and 'THAT THING' HAHAHAHAA

but don't you need to factor in the time taken to fabricate up the steel beams that will go there? then to actually lay the floor itself..then etc etc... I initially thought it was just someone to lay wooden floorboards etc. but this is a whole fabrication thing right...i personally think it'll probably take more than a week to get it up Tony....once you factor in delay time....

yep lol...you see, i have my parents coming to visit on the 25th and was hoping that I could get wheels, alignement etc. done with you mid Feb...but after the issues you were having I didn't think that everything would be in in time so I had to get the tyres....the old tyres were wearing and driving hard, rough and noisy and didn't want the parents complaining ......I'm sure you'll have the money men happy once it's running again

I like the Goodyears (F1 GSD).... For me they are a problem free sale and well respected in Tyrereveiws Don't doubt the goodyears at all....just was saying in terms of roll resistance it could be a bit high.

be aware with the goodyears your MPG will be very similar to the Toyos......

nice progress Tony..although i think it will probably be mid March at least before you can open and that's why I had to get my tyres done....couldn't wait sorry ...would have loved to check out the fitting machine......anyway will be down anyway once you have the whole thing finished for a review ...hope everything goes smooooth from now...

i also think that Toyos are a good tyre for outright dry grip..but have to say it falls down on others such as comfort, uniformity as it wears, roll resistance and wear. As Tony has said you'd be lucky to get more than 8K from a set of T1-s and I got little more than 12K from my T1Rs.....and have to say after it wore half way it tramlined a bit more and was a bit more harsh and ride comfort suffered. My last set of Yokos the AVS DBs lasted 20K (the ones I have on now have an even higher wear rating so expecting longer)...and wore very well all the way till they were gone....so factoring everything together and the fact that I would have needed 2 sets of Toyos and the fact that it reduced my fuel efficiency by 10% or more I would be sticking with Yokos...i just worked out a 10% saving in petrol would save me £260 or more a year!!

I think you are singing the right notes... The bushing position should be neutral before locking them... If jacks is the only means of doing this then jacks it is. Hi Tony..i redid it all again today..couldn't take it anymore and i can say yes it was preload on bushings! thinking about it before i realised i did it a side at a time..of course this didn't load the suspension properly since the sway bar attached prevented proper loading of the suspension! i forgot to put a jack under the other side!!!!...anyway much more confy ride now............it amazing about the difference......In all honesty i think if anyone who has not driven the car before would not know and would have just thouht that the suspension kit did it!! I am just glad that I was aware how the car should have drove! It just makes me wonder how many people have ill installed ssuspension from bushing preload!!!....believe me the difference it huge!............the car was THUDDING over bumps before and I was dreading the drive..it would jostle me around...now it's a nice DUMPPFFFFFF noise..exactly how it should sound! I've written about it here also http://www.phpbber.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php...p;mforum=sp4rks

an idea whether this could be an issue with preload on the bushings? and if so how do you normally preload the bushings since it's not possible to do it with the wheel on? maybe bounce the rear boot while the hub carriers are resting on jack stands trying to get the suspension back to corect ride height before tightening?? Any help would be much appreciated...

I had a set of toyo T1R on the car gave an average of 32.5mpg on the trip same road, PSI etc. now running Yokohama C-drive and it's shot up to 35.5mpg ..so yes brand/model can affect things just as much

thing is Tony it's the OEM Honda lowered sports suspension, they have 2 revisions of it. i first thought that the new revision that i initially had on it was causing the issue so i sourced the suspension revision i had on my previous accord...it's better but there still seems to be a roughness issue....any chance i could have messed up some bushings when fitting the suspension?!? I had to loosened the multilink rear suspension bushings as to seat them.... however when tightening them I measured the height from the arch to the centre of the hub and it measured 39cm...however I noticed that once the suspension has settled it measures 33.5cm.....so there's a 6cm or so difference between the tightening position of the bushings and the settled position....... you asked if this was a handling or bumpiness issue..the thing is the car doesn't feel as connected to the road as my previous one with exactly the same mods...so i guess you can say it also affect the handling.....

Ok just after some advice. After fitting the lowered suspension on the Accord (06 model) the rear end feels very ‘bumpy’ and feels like its rough. Feel every little rut and the rear just seems to bump around rather than firm and stuck to the road. It also feels like it's rubbing the tyre accoss the road?? I’ve had another Accord (04 plate) with the same suspension kit before and it never felt like this it rode a lot smoother and was a more relaxing drive and was very planted. To my knowledge they didn’t change any other suspension component between 04 and 06. I also note that the suspension seems lower in the rear as compared to my previous car. I had it aligned when the suspension was fitted but don’t fully trust the alignment and since I didn’t have the camber kit I thought I’d wait till I got the camber kit on before I get a proper geometry check. I am aware that the rear camber is now way off and probably the general alignment is off also (visit to Tony soon ) Now wondering on causes: 1) Needs a proper alignment – but would this affect the bumpiness in the rear? 2) The suspension bushes haven’t been set properly. I tried to set them my jacking up each side to load it since I couldn’t tighten things with it on the ground. 3) I’ve put on some new tyres on which seemed to cure things slightly but the rear tyres needed more weights to balance and think I thin I’m going to wait to get to Tony so he can Forcematch them with the Hunter machine Any other suggestions?

I don't think it will be cast stainless ... it would be inordinarily expensive if it was... and stainless would be the best choice for a heat shield...if anything i think the heat shield would be a lot more effective than the heat wrap...

general question abot stamps in the casting for alloy wheels. I've noticed a stamps which seems to ressemble JIL on alloys....anyone know what it means? does it resemble the low spot on the wheel or maybe the light spot?

Are you using a tubular stainless steel type manifold? or just the OEM item? If it's the OEM manifold i wouldn't suggest wrapping it since it could induce stresses in the iron leading to cracks....I remember reading up on this a long time ago but then again i might be wrong ...but can't remember where i read it lol....think it maybe better modifying a heat shield to go inbetween...maybe a better idea?

glad you got it sorted Tony...I must say that even if you spent £13000 it wouldn't have looked any better

I don't understand how you can get that much crazy toe figures!?!?!?!......in the rear it's even worse after?!?!? and why did they make it Toe out MORE in the rear!??!

ok I've been thinking about this a while and have also bought tyres from online dealers such as Mytyres etc. Now I'm sure many of you have read about the case of the Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3s which found their way over to UK but were actually designated for a different part of the world. This has led me to wonder how can some online dealers sell tyres for so cheap? Some emails with an online dealer suggested they source tyres from all around...but then on further investigation it would seem that tyres from 'all around' may not be suitable for UK....e.g the Goodyear case. So this leads me to ask...how much can you trust online dealers in terms of where they get the stock? Also what are your feelings if something goes wrong...say you experience a tyre with radial pull and it needs to go back...anyone had experience?