Jump to content

Lexus IS200/300 -35mm lowering


Recommended Posts

Special thanks to "Hando" from LOC (Lexus Owners Club) for permitting wim this pictorial of his cars developments. Some images are not the best in the world but the procedure applies whatever.. Please remember this is only a guide and does not encapsulate the entire procedure since this takes two hours or so.


The car





For no particular reason i prefer to start at the rear, so with the wheels still on the ground you will need to release the anti-roll bar drop links (12mm head & nut)




Lift vehicle to relax the suspension and remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolt (19mm head & nut)




If you don't have immediate access to recover the Geometry then you will need to mark the camber adjuster cams position before removing it... Simple marks like "Tippex" will suffice (22mm bolt- 19mm nut)




Remove the inner lining from the boot using long nose pliers at the snap/retaining plastic retaining plugs... There are three each side. This will revial three (14mm) top mount bolts, undo these "DO NOT RELEASE THE CENTRE BOLT" since this retains the coil.





Finally remove the two top mount retaining bolts from the inner arch (12mm)




With suitable spring compressors.... compress the coil. It is also wise to mark the top mount and damper body to ensure the top and bottom positions are aligned.. Reason for this is that the top mount and lower damper hole have a clinical longitude so it needs to be correct... Again Tippex is sufficient




Now release the centre damper retaining bolt (17mm) and exchange the coil.... On re-build maintain the Tippex marks and reinstall.




Lower the rear and re-connect the anti-roll bar links







Lift vehicle and remove the "ABS" wire retaining frame




Some may disagree? but i found that removing the actual censure from the hub is near to impossible. Then remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolt (19mm head & body)




Now the worst part! The upper "A frame wishbone" has a tapered ball joint....




After releasing the lock nut (17mm) most times the male taper is locked in the hub up-right? So there is no option other than "shocking" the male out of the connection by a hammer..... Leave the nut on the joint and do the deed until the ball joint departs




Now remove the three retaining bolts from under the bonnet (12mm) "DO NOT RELEASE THE CENTRE BOLT" since this retains the coil.




Same procedure with Tippex and reliable compressors will allow the exchange of springs.... wise application of Thread-lock is advised and some form of independent quality control for validation.... All done here are the results..






After setting the immediate Geometry displacement we will allow the coils to settle (2000 miles or so) then we will finalise the positions.


Once again big thank you to "Hando" for allowing this pictorial you are a star! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So when you lower the IS200 the wheels get bigger? Cool :)


Great how-to Tony.

Well spotted jon, you are paying attention! In this scenario the owner also replaced the wheels 17" to 18". Original owner non other than Mr Mike Morse, so in perfect condition as expected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...