GazzaK Posted April 24, 2006 Report Share Posted April 24, 2006 Right, this has been puzzling me... On my car, Tony adjusted the toe to be about 1.1mm in all round. what would be the result in driving/tyre wear if this was different? ie, like this front toe left = 0 right = 0 rear toe left = 0 right = 0 and what would be the result of this front toe left = 0 right = 0 rear toe left = 1mm right = 1mm all other settings standard (if thats possible) and another couple... what effects would changes in camber have? & what effects would changes in caster have? (probably explained in a lovely technical manner elsewhere, but this is not technical, I would like answers like "if the toe on the fronts was 0, but 1mm on the back the car would do this...... and the tyre wear would be........) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 Right, this has been puzzling me... On my car, Tony adjusted the toe to be about 1.1mm in all round. what would be the result in driving/tyre wear if this was different? ie, like this front toe left = 0 right = 0 rear toe left = 0 right = 0 and what would be the result of this front toe left = 0 right = 0 rear toe left = 1mm right = 1mm all other settings standard (if thats possible) and another couple... what effects would changes in camber have? & what effects would changes in caster have? (probably explained in a lovely technical manner elsewhere, but this is not technical, I would like answers like "if the toe on the fronts was 0, but 1mm on the back the car would do this...... and the tyre wear would be........) Good question The positions of the toe initially determines the rate of turnin ver drive type. A 0+0 on a RWD with the other angles set at stock would 360 the car at every opportunity.... the under-over steer would not make the drive pleasant, totally unpredictable. The F 0+0 R1+1 will reduce over-steer by controlling the rear slip angle... basically controlling the 'brake point' Camber is a compressive force, so at the rear this promotes under-steer.... this is wise for the RWD Camber at the front is another story.... off-sets measured from the wheel and King Pin determine the Scrub radius... if the radius is wrong then the forces directed to the tyre would make the car handle very bad indeed. Contrary to what i have read elsewhere the radius is adjustable depending were the camber is adjusted... if the camber is adjusted via the strut or turret then little movement will be seen at the KPI... but if the camber adjustment is made via the lower wishbone then there is an immediate movement toward the KPI then the camber angle.... so in this case you can target the scrub radius. Castor..... we have mechanical/ pneumatic and the steering axis involved here...... in reality the castor is disinterested in the toe position..... the kpi/castor/toot and turning radii have to be a stand alone explanation... i would need to add areas like modifications/wheel size/ down/ breaking forces into the explanation... and this would mask your initial post. Fun stuff this Geometry lark but it can become complicated if to broad.... refined questions open much debate which is healthy for you and the club Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discount tyres dan Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 i have my mercedes set to all the manufactures settings except for front toe, instead of the total toe being set to almost +3.0mm as mercedes say, i have it set to +1.0mm seems to be a nice feel in the corners and thhe tyres are wearing nice and even Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 i have my Mercedes set to all the manufactures settings except for front toe, instead of the total toe being set to almost +3.0mm as Mercedes say, i have it set to +1.0mm seems to be a nice feel in the corners and the tyres are wearing nice and even Do you use a 'Spreader rod' when you set the toe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discount tyres dan Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 yes, our hunter machine always manages to make me grin regarding the expansion bar, the on screen instructions tell you to fit the bar before doing the run-out test. imagine rolling the car back as someone walks past. that bar hitting you in the temple wouldn't do you many favours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 yes, our hunter machine always manages to make me grin regarding the expansion bar, the on screen instructions tell you to fit the bar before doing the run-out test. imagine rolling the car back as someone walks past. that bar hitting you in the temple wouldn't do you many favours. Interesting?... i never thought this would be requested as a 'run-out' requirement, but it does make sense... i assume the Hunter only needs 45degrees forward/backward to measure compensation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discount tyres dan Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 i think you might be right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 28, 2006 Report Share Posted May 28, 2006 i think you might be right. Well no? actually you are right!... i have never received a directive to use the 'Spreader rod' for run-out compensation on the Mercedes prior to Geometry testing....To Date this was only used to simulate rolling resistance as a conclusion........ well done Dan, this is another area of excellence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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