Daniel Ålien Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Hi, all! ​I sent a question in to the WIM team as well, but seeing as I haven't gotten an answer yet, and I feel in dire need for help, I made a forum account as well ​I live in Norway and have a Lexus IS200 SportCross from 2003 which has the following settings as of November 2015 (when it had a slight crash (not involving other than front crash absorber) and geometry was checked/adjusted just to be safe): ​​ Front: ​Caster Left: 5°54' ​Caster Right: 6​°06' Camber Left: -0°30' Camber Right: -0°42' Toe Left: 0°06' Toe Right: 0°00' Toe total: 0°06' Rear: Camber Left: -0°48' Camber Right: -1°06' Toe Left: 0°00' Toe Right: -0°09' Thrust angle: 0°05' Secondary angles: SAI Left: 9°15' SAI Right: 9°36' "Combination angle": Left: 8°45' Right: 8°54' "Displacement" Front: -0 mm Rear: 1 mm "Track width difference": 19 mm "Wheel base difference": -1 mm Ride height: FL/FR/RL/RR: 66 mm My main problem with the car is that it eats on the inside of both my front and rear tyres as well as that it shakes quite a bit (steeringwheel and what feels like the rear) between 80 and 120 km/h. Front and rear brake calipers are new as of 2014 and 2015 respectively. Same with discs and pads. Wheels were balanced today, when new rubber was put on my summer wheels. I just bought new summer tyres today and I'm hoping someone here can help me avoid more unpleasantness in the future. The car rolls on 215/45/R17 in the summer (Nokian Hakka Blue) and 205/55/R16 in the winter (Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Ã…lien Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 I made some simple editing to my Welsh friend's diagram: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Hi Daniel I did get your Email but i'll reply here so others can benefit. The reason for the tyre wear on the front is the deep target camber position ( -30' ) and the low castor position toward negative ( the wheel toward the rear ) The inner wear is due to the lean of the outer wheel when cornering. The low castor position allows the outer wheel to lean to far negative meaning the wear happens on cornering. Problem the industry has is in it's self the static front camber OEM figure looks unremarkable at -30' so many tyre shops ignore camber as the reason for the wear. The way to reduce the camber related lean would be to increase the castor toward positive but the angle isn't directly adjustable unlike the front camber and toe. I did however find a way to increase the castor toward positive indirectly. If the front camber is moved to -10' the adjustment will dramatically displace the toe angle, when this is corrected it will indirectly increase the castor. It's probable the castor will finish outside of the Lexus datum and show as red, this is not a problem. All other OEM positions should be set as suggested.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Ã…lien Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Thank you so much for ansvering!So if they move front camber to -0o10' on both front wheels, before adjusting the front toe and then leave the rest, things should drastically improve? What about the inner wear on the rear wheels?Might this help with steering wheel shake as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 The front camber move displaces the toe alarmingly but it's correction is in the safe direction meaning the steering arm is screwed into the track rod end not out. The rear camber on the geo report is wrong as it stands so adjusting that will take care of the wear. The vibration can you feel it on the steering wheel and if yes is it when braking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Ã…lien Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 I can feel it through the steering wheel after passing 75+ km/h, worsening towards 100 km/h before "cancelling itself out" when going faster due to the high frequency of the shake blending into itself. I feel as if the rear is shaking as well.Braking doesn't seem to make a difference, one way or the other. I've had braking induced steering wheel wobble before, due to uneven discs, and this isn't it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Ålien Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Here's the printout, if that is even readable, lol.A small translation:"Sp**sing" = Toe."Første" = First (before-settings)"Siste" = Last (after-settings). "Framme" = Front "Bak" = Rear"Spesifikasjoner" = specifications (factory) It would seem rear camber wasn't adjusted at all. Could it be seized or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 All that's been adjusted is the toe and even that wasn't very good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Ã…lien Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Would seem that way. Getting it all looked at on Monday. Fingers crossed that the previous guys were lazy and that the bolts aren't un-adjustable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted April 16, 2016 Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 Very rare to they seize..... Sometimes there's issues with the rear toe adjuster riding the adjuster ledge but there's ways around that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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