I don't understand everything

[PhoneDrome]

I just did a training in business english.. so please Tony forgive me but I have to ask again.

 

This is what you told me a few days befor:

The rear

Camber: 1*20'- +- 10'

Toe : 10' per side+ +- 2'

 

The front

Camber: 25'- +0 -10' and even over the axle to 10'

Castor: I cannot answer since the position is dependent on the Cambers result, if possible the position should be high and even over the axle to 20'

Toe: 8'+ per side +- 2'

 

For the others... my car is a 99 Lexus IS200 droped abour 50mm by Eibach ProKit and Koni yellow sport shocks.

 

What I do understand:

Rear:

Camber 1*20' +/- 10' (means positiv between 1deg 10min TO 1deg 30min)

Toe: 10' per side +/- 2' (means positive between 8min and 12min)

 

Front Toe: Between 6' to 10' per side

 

What I don't understand:

Front:

Camber: 25'- +0-10' or even over axle to 10' (means between 25'min to 35'? What does even over the axle mean? I should go for 35'?)

 

For the castor: I will let them adjust it but have to talk back to you later with the Camber settings they have done

 

BTW: Fitted summerwheels last Friday. 18x8OS38 with 225/40R18 (used from last summer). Now it comes clear: The steering wheel is offcenter to the left and the car drifts slightly to the right! The front left tire is worn on the inside.

[Tony]

I just did a training in business english.. so please Tony forgive me but I have to ask again.

 

This is what you told me a few days befor:

The rear

Camber: 1*20'- +- 10'

Toe : 10' per side+ +- 2'

 

The front

Camber: 25'- +0 -10' and even over the axle to 10'

Castor: I cannot answer since the position is dependent on the Cambers result, if possible the position should be high and even over the axle to 20'

Toe: 8'+ per side +- 2'

 

For the others... my car is a 99 Lexus IS200 droped abour 50mm by Eibach ProKit and Koni yellow sport shocks.

 

What I do understand:

Rear:

Camber 1*20' +/- 10' (means positiv between 1deg 10min TO 1deg 30min)

Toe: 10' per side +/- 2' (means positive between 8min and 12min)

 

Front Toe: Between 6' to 10' per side

 

What I don't understand:

Front:

Camber: 25'- +0-10' or even over axle to 10' (means between 25'min to 35'? What does even over the axle mean? I should go for 35'?)

 

For the castor: I will let them adjust it but have to talk back to you later with the Camber settings they have done

 

BTW: Fitted summerwheels last Friday. 18x8OS38 with 225/40R18 (used from last summer). Now it comes clear: The steering wheel is offcenter to the left and the car drifts slightly to the right! The front left tire is worn on the inside.

Your initial request was the Euro LOC members wanted an idea for safe positions on the IS200, to preserve tyre wear, these positions do deliver that.

 

In explanation the front camber positions (ideal) should be 25' neg... the + means no more... the - means the position could be 15' neg but no less.

 

Over the axle @ 10' is the nsf/osf disparity, the means that whatever figure is achieved i don't want more than 10' difference between the front wheels.

 

The Castor position is born indirectly from adjusting the camber and toe, so the end figure is dependent on the amount of adjustment required, i don't want more than 20' disparity between the nsf/osf.

 

As you can see the geometry will need to be worked for, blind turning of adjusters is not good enough for the IS.

[PhoneDrome]

Got it!

 

So we will try to go for:

 

Front

Camber: -25' to -15' (but not less), both wheels not more than 10' disparity.

Castor: will be worked out through castor an toe, both wheels not more than 20' disparity.

Toe: +8' (+/-2') per side

 

Rear:

Camber: -1°20' (+/- 10')

Toe: +10' (+/-2') per side

 

Thanks a lot

[Tony]

Got it!

 

So we will try to go for:

 

Front

Camber: -25' to -15' (but not less), both wheels not more than 10' disparity.

Castor: will be worked out through castor an toe, both wheels not more than 20' disparity.

Toe: +8' (+/-2') per side

 

Rear:

Camber: -1°20' (+/- 10')

Toe: +10' (+/-2') per side

 

Thanks a lot

 

Almost:- Castor will be worked through the ( Camber and toe ) Everything else is as you state..... let us know how things go!

[PhoneDrome]

Seems that the former owner damaged the left front.

The measurements we achieved were the best we culd get.

 

The rear toe was set to negative! But we also could not set it to +0*10' but we set it to positive +0*2'. That was the best we could get from the excentric.

 

The front left camber is above 1*neg... we couldn't get it lower over dead center (only higher!).

 

After 3 years of ownership the steering wheel point straight forward! What a pleasure!

 

The new settings (left/right)

 

Front

Camber (-0*25' to -0*15') is now -1*13' / -0*41' (best possible on the left)

Toe (+0*8' +/-0*2') is now +0*9' / +0*10'

 

Rear

Camber (-1*20' +/-0*10') is now -1*19' / -1*19'

Toe (+0*10' +/-0*2') ist +0*2' / +0*11' (best possible value on the left, but on the positive side)

 

Don't know if I should be happy or not.. me and the garage have no clue what to change to get better settings. There is no visible damage.

 

Perhaps I should go for some racing parts and change whole tie rods and look out for different excenters with bigger adjustable ranges.

Can somebody point me in the right direction?

 

Any further comments?

[Tony]

Seems that the former owner damaged the left front.

The measurements we achieved were the best we culd get.

 

The rear toe was set to negative! But we also could not set it to +0*10' but we set it to positive +0*2'. That was the best we could get from the excentric.

 

The front left camber is above 1*neg... we couldn't get it lower over dead center (only higher!).

 

After 3 years of ownership the steering wheel point straight forward! What a pleasure!

 

The new settings (left/right)

 

Front

Camber (-0*25' to -0*15') is now -1*13' / -0*41' (best possible on the left)

Toe (+0*8' +/-0*2') is now +0*9' / +0*10'

 

Rear

Camber (-1*20' +/-0*10') is now -1*19' / -1*19'

Toe (+0*10' +/-0*2') ist +0*2' / +0*11' (best possible value on the left, but on the positive side)

 

Don't know if I should be happy or not.. me and the garage have no clue what to change to get better settings. There is no visible damage.

 

Perhaps I should go for some racing parts and change whole tie rods and look out for different excenters with bigger adjustable ranges.

Can somebody point me in the right direction?

 

Any further comments?

Has the car been lowered.......... if yes then the positions are fine since the coil rate would be higher, if not then the camber curve will wear the tyres on the front very fast on the insides. The shop has done a good job making the Geometry symmetrical though!

[PhoneDrome]

Its lowered with Eibach ProKit and KONI Sport Shocks... all in all about 2 inches. The car sits there like a animal before jumping... very good look.

 

What can I do to the front left? How could I possibly "repair" it?

[Tony]

Its lowered with Eibach ProKit and KONI Sport Shocks... all in all about 2 inches. The car sits there like a animal before jumping... very good look.

 

What can I do to the front left? How could I possibly "repair" it?

To Triangulate were the problem is i would need other information from the Geometry report... like KPI or SJI and the Castor positions